6

Variable layer height is a setting of the slicer, not an ability of the printer itself. However, the printer must be able to print at such layer heights. Any FDM (Fused deposition modeling ) or FFF (fused filament fabrication) printer, which is the type you describe in the question, is able to print at 0.1 to 0.3 mm with at least a 0.4 mm nozzle diameter. ...


3

Just to update on this, it wasn't directly a configuration setting, it was actually a blockage in the hotend (I suspect because the PTFE tube had become unseated from some black filament that was stated as 1.75 mm but I think it had a larger diameter). After clearing through my hotend with some PTFE tube, I found a disk of the black filament I initially ...


2

Based on my experience, cure-time and thickness increase or decrease is not linear and it is mostly curve. For example resin rated for 50 micron 5 s cure time. You should expect: 25 micron - 3.2 s 50 micron - 5 s 100 micron - 12 s If a resin manufacturer do not provide specific cure time for thickness you want, you should always print calibration objects....


1

You have "elephant foot". Look at the left end of the grip section of the clip in your second image -- see how the thickness increases toward the top (which was the bottom, against the build surface, when printing)? There are a number of causes for this; in your case, it continues for several layers, so the basic solutions (reducing first layer ...


1

You could look into the "combing" option, this may prevent some excessive retracts per layer, reducing the print time. You should add some infill percentage to give the walls stability and provide a base for the top. It is difficult to see if the holes run through the whole object. If so, you definitely need some infill. PLA usually doesn't need a ...


1

Layer height affects the exposure time. Thicker layers mean that you need to expose longer. You would need to test and verify what works for you.


1

It seems the DEFAULT_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT of the TH3D firmware was causing the issue, which was something I was aware of but didn't think that it would cause this. I set it to zero and then re-printed the calibration cube. It came out with the dimensions of 20 mm x 20 mm x 20.1 mm, which was incredibly accurate for the setup I have. Related: Creality Ender 3 ...


1

Assuming that the model is sliced correctly, not scaled (by looking into the G-code you can find out if it is sliced correctly, look up the last layer move G1 Zxx.xx, xx.xx should be the height of the model). If that is correct, then your Z might have a problem in that the steps per mm are set incorrectly, or your Z stepper is missing steps. As Marlin is ...


1

Since it happens in the same place each time, it's either G-code or mechanical. I've seen things like this happen with dirty gantries, or a dirty Z-axis guide. If it's not mechanical, there may be something in the G-code that causes it, such as too many retractions in one area, or similar.


1

Taken from a rejected suggested edit. If the author (Gareth) posts their own answer, this can be deleted, or flagged for deletion My Ender 3 is not warped in any way but there are several issues I needed to address: Extrusion: Check your extruder and Z eSteps for accuracy, as detailed in numerous places. Test layer width: print a cube in vase mode (1 shell ...


1

I just flashed my new Ender 5 with Marlin and I had the same issue. The 2nd and 3rd layers were digging into the previous layers. I manually lowered the bed by 10 mm via the machine knob and the bed only moved 5.207 mm (I used a dial caliper). I went into the EEPROM and adjusted the steps/mm for the Z from 400 to 769: 10 mm /5.207 mm is 1.921 400x1.921 is ...


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