21

Layer Times See my answer to this question and pay particular attention to my suggestion about a minimum layer print time. I'm not sure if all slicing engines provide this option, but I know MakerWare/MakerBot Desktop and (possibly) Slic3r allow this setting. Basically, when you're extruding smaller features like this, the previous layer(s) are still very ...


19

If you feel you need to clean the nozzle the best approach is a cold pull. You can perform this procedure with many printers, however, you should seek advice from your printer manufacturer before attempting this process if you have any doubts. With the previously filament still loaded and the tool head cold: Begin to raise the temperature of the tool to ...


15

I believe the little experiment made by E3D - the same link you provide - answers your question very well. Several points about wear can be found in this article. After printing only 250 grams of ColorFabb XT-CF20 (carbon fiber filament): The nozzle diameter had increased markedly The inner walls of the orifice (opening) showed deep sharp ridges and grooves ...


13

The stepper motor itself does not. You may want to inspect the motors for debris or dust. Depending on your configuration you may want to check on parts of your printer that connect to your stepper motor such as shaft couplings, pulleys, lead screws/threaded rods and belts. The stepper motor wires should occasionally be inspected for wear and strain.


10

No, stepper motors do not require maintenance. They are a brushless kind of motor, so they do not have brushes that need to be replaced.


10

Different types of hotends and extruders can lead to different problems associated with clogging. Based on my personal experience the leading causes of clogs and jams are the following Foreign material in the nozzle (dirt, dust, low quality filament) Mixing materials in the hotend (running ABS at 220 then switching to PLA without purging the nozzle) ...


9

If you are printing with ABS (or PLA), acetone will dissolve it. Simply pour some on the bed and wipe it off (beware, acetone can damage beds that have a coating or a plastic sheet over them, be sure to test this first). Heating the bed back up may make the plastic softer and easier to remove. If you are using tape on the bed, you could remove the tape to ...


9

Taken in order your questions: Maintenance for a resin printer means keeping the vat or tray clean, using appropriate methods to remove the unused resin (or leaving it in the vat per manufacturer's directions). Cleaning the tray should be done also per manufacturer's spec, although each printer's user forum may provide better or more effective options. The ...


8

In most cases, removing the old filament from the printer, inserting the new filament in, and running the new filament through the printer for a short period of time will clean the nozzle. The skirt of the print can also be a time during the actual print for the old filament to be flushed. Assuming the skirt is long enough, all that needs to be done is the ...


8

My usual solution for cleaning the glass bed on my printer is a glass scraper (basically just a razor blade with a handle on it): Regardless of what kind of filament (abs/pla/nylon) or surface treatment (glue/painters tape/abs slurry) I've used the glass scraper always takes it right off, and with the style I posted a picture of the blade is flexible and ...


7

Thermocouples work by passively generating VERY small voltages via the Seebeck effect -- usually a few tens of millivolts. They're literally just a pair of wires made from two different special alloys, electrically connected together at the "hot" end. That wire junction can be mounted inside whatever kind of attachment tip or lug is desired. The fact that ...


7

One of the things I look for is if you pull the print head a good ways off the bed and have it extrude. It should just squirt plastic straight down. If it bends sharply in one direction, or even curls back on itself, then that is a sign of damage.


7

I've personally had this happen when I had a minor clog in my nozzle. My first steps to fix this would be: Make sure the exterior of your nozzle is clean. I've had bits of plastic pull at the extruding filament and change it's direction. Attempt a "cold pull" or "atomic pull". On my Replicator 2 I do this by removing the extruder motor, heating up the hot ...


7

It's a question of what you want to use the belt for. All Belts are subject to stress as they run around the motor and idlers and gears and bend. They will get eaten as they are subject to friction against parts, they will stretch as they are subject to tension. All this applies some sort of stress or another on the belt. Anything that is subject to stress ...


6

If you're extruding into the air, it's actually quite normal for the filament to come out in seemingly random directions. This shouldn't cause problems because the filament should always be getting squished onto the bed/layer underneath (or during bridging, getting stretched). The way the filament comes out in free air doesn't reflect how it behaves during ...


6

Lubricating the filament is the most common solution I've heard of to stop filament jams and clogs. Lubricating makes for a smoother ride through the print head. While you're at it, make sure that the filament is clean. The best way to stop jams from dust is to get rid of the dust in the first place. Some people recommend canola oil, which I've heard works ...


6

According to igus commercial documentation, these bushings: do not need any kind of lubrication, are not susceptible to humidity (but your steel rods might) work seamlessly in presence of dust (it gets expelled from the bushing with movements) I've replaced all of my bearings with these, and in my experience, the above claims have been true so far. I must ...


5

This can highly depend on the slicer you are using. Some software such as Makerware and Slic3r allow you to adjust the settings for the first raft/part layers. I might suggest adjusting this "Z0" point to about 1/4-1/2 of your layer height. Essentially the first layer (or two) will not adhere as well. This is just one suggestion of many solutions. Here are ...


5

As general advice, regardless of your printer, extruders tend to clog if: [Some of them might not apply to every printer, but they should be as general as possible] you let the filament run out mid print, most extruders have a "dead zone" between the grinding wheel and the hot end, in which if the filaments stays stuck there, your only option is to open the ...


5

X stage binding like this is almost always caused by parallelism issues with the rods and/or screw. The two-rod-plus-screw arrangement is quite over-constrained and thus requires good alignment to move smoothly. Some basic troubleshooting steps: Make sure the screw is not constrained at both ends. It is very difficult to manufacture a screw that is ...


5

Belts come in several formulations. This page from McMaster-Carr lists several types of belts. The main materials (rubbers) are Neoprene and urethane, with fiberglass, Kevlar, and steel reinforcement. I would suggest spending some time looking at these, comparing the specs, and basing your choice on the needs of your application. I used 1/4" wide MXL ...


5

your print surface is destroyed So, you managed to rip off your print surface in the center. Happened to me too. the corners of my scraper were too sharp, cutting the surface. Another time I did pierce the surface with my nozzle. Damage happens. Replacement surfaces for the Ender3 start at about 5 bucks a piece. So get yourself some spares. Clean your bed ...


4

It depends on tray and resin type you are using. PDMS If you are using PDMS (eg. sylgard 184) coating for your tray. (B9 and similar printers using this type of tray). Life of tray PDMS coating depends mainly on: How long you print without breathing floor. How reactive is your resin. You could get 2 3 prints up to 15 20 prints. It is suitable for ...


4

Try to, First, remove the heat block from the extruder/heat sink. Heat the hot end to ~ 230 'C. Then try to unscrew the nozzle while holding the heat block with a wrench or plier. Be extra careful with the heat block and with the plier.


4

Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) is the general recommendation I've heard and it works well for me.


3

There could be a few issues at play. The smooth rods are not parallel which is causing the bearings to bind the further you go up. Part of the thread is damaged not allowing it to pass through the nut. The threaded rod is bent significantly to where it either doesn't pass through the nut or bind the assembly. (Is the end of the threaded rod opposite the ...


3

Some people use a nylon "cleaning" filament when switching types of filaments. It heats well to a variety of temperatures and seems to stick well to whatever is in there when pulling it back out. Be sure to heat it up to the temperature of the filament being removed to get that to bind with the nylon.


3

Despite how many vendors make it appear, resin-curing SLA/DLP printers are industrial or commercial tools that are really not suitable for home desktop use. Here are the major downsides: Significantly more expensive to operate than FDM printers, in most cases. The resin is seriously toxic until fully cured. Fumes can be an issue for users handling raw ...


3

For molten filament to jam at the inlet to the thermal barrier tube like shown here, there must be something wrong with the cooling in your setup. The cold zone needs to be cool for the extruder to work right. It looks like the cold zone is not staying below the glass point of the plastic, so the filament softens and mashes into a jam. Here are some common ...


3

The extruder advance feature is probably not enabled on your printer, so this code effectively does nothing (and you don't need to mess with it). Extruder advance is a feature that tries to compensate for the delay between feeding (or retracting) the filament and the point at which it actually starts to extrude, but it's generally not used. The fact that the ...


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