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Ethics and justification:
If you have physical access to the device you could just... physically damage the device. Running arbitrary G-code is just more complicated
Most printer farms have a strict no outside G-code policy for good reason. Because direct physical access to the printer does not provide any security.
This is also a problem for CNC Mills and ...
4
I notice that in "configuration_adv.h" for the BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3, which uses TMC2209 drivers, the similar section has:
#if HAS_TRINAMIC_CONFIG
#define HOLD_MULTIPLIER 0.5 // Scales down the holding current from run current
#define INTERPOLATE true // Interpolate X/Y/Z_MICROSTEPS to 256
#if AXIS_IS_TMC(X)
#define ...
4
Are you sure the move didn't finish? That would be very unusual, not the way 3D printer firmware normally operates. A new G0/G1 move command does not execute until the previous one finishes, whether it's extrude-only, travel-only, or a print move (mix of extrusion and travel).
What's probably happening for you is that the amount of material you're trying to ...
answered Apr 3 '21 at 23:05
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
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4
By default, Windows does not come packaged with drivers for the CH340 USB Serial chipset the Creality Silent board has installed. To get your computer to properly recognize the printer, you will need to install the CH340 Driver software from WCH's website. (the company that manufactures the CH340 chip)
As of August 2021, the download for the drivers can be ...
4
Both are implementations of exactly the same concept, even up to the units of the tuning constant being seconds (mm/(mm/s)). The difference is in the implementation details, and particularly how they deal with a mathematically and physically nasty/demanding part of the concept.
In order to compensate for pressure making the filament/filament-path behave like ...
answered Jan 5 at 4:48
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3
PSU is only feeding 12 V into RAMPS, but (if I remember correctly) RAMPS is using Arduino's onboard regulator for converting 12 V to 5 V. That regulator can not provide much power.
If you connect some significant load to any 5 V pin (like servo, LCD backlight, or BLTouch), the regulator will be overloaded and its output voltage will drop (too low or unstable ...
3
In your case, since linear advance makes the issue disappear, the reason of the thinner lines is the same as explained in the link you provided:
The section (2) simply is very long because you probably have a Bowden setup which takes more than the length of the middle section to recover. However it does recover, see the first line (k=0) in the first image.
...
3
Thanks to @Rykara, they led me to the answer. The whole problem was kinda a firmware issue but on the SD card side. The reason why it wasn't flashing was because I didn't flash the SD card to use the FAT32 format. Unfortunately I tried every other format option except that one before hand, mostly because I am mainly on a Mac. Now there is no more problems ...
3
There are three things to fix and one suggestion:
Change follwing lines of M109, using parameter R instead of S, because the latter is not waiting to cool down:
M109 R160 ; Wait for 160C
...
M109 R110 ; Heat hotend to 110C
The behavior of M420 will depend on type of bed leveling, saved mesh, etc. It is off topic to troubleshoot this. The printer operates ...
3
Issue seems to be resolved. I deleted my Marlin copy, downloaded a fresh copy and I started again.
What worries me is how a working copy and a working printer can suddenly have this issue. Feel like this issue could come back as I never found the root cause.
3
It could be caused by software or configuration issue.
Possibility 1: just worked after re-installation of Marlin
You could have Z steps/mm set to 0 in EEPROM, and did not notice that fact.
It is possible to fix this unconsciously with Marlin software reinstallation, following the upgrade procedure which included reset of EEPROM settings - like "Step 4: ...
3
What are ABL and UBL?
ABL stands for Automatic Bed Leveling
UBL stands for Unified Bed Leveling
Level the bed?
A level bed (twisting knobs under the bed), or a surface that is exactly followed by the nozzle is a prime requisite for 3D printing. Without a proper bed setup (not only level, but also the initial nozzle to bed surface gap; usually the paper ...
3
Physical Access is worse
If you really want to brick a printer, physical access allows to destroy any printer physically.
If you really want to mess it up only via a remote command later, you would not just run arbitrary G-code, you'd replace the firmware with one that looks and feels the same but contains neither Thermal Runaway Protection nor a Maxtemp. ...
2
If you followed the video verbatim then the pins file will be wrong, because he's changing the pins based on an MKS Gen 1.4 and not the SKR 1.3. All pins on the SKR will look similar to P2_04, which is the pin for the 2nd hotend terminal.
2
You may wish to PID Autotune the bed as well.
2
Dimensions if they differ, maybe endstop offsets and possibly a different thermistor type.
2
TL;DR You don't need to fix it, it is by design.
When using a probe, defined the correct probe X (xxx) and Y (yyy) offsets (#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { xxx, yyy, 0 }) and having enabled #define Z_SAFE_HOMING will cause the probe to home in the middle. That is how it is supposed to work!
If the nozzle would be in the center, then you wouldn't probe the ...
2
I've actually found what the issue was. It turns out that my Z steps were way out of whack (i.e. 4000 steps/mm instead of 400). Apparently, that's the default value in GitHub for version 2.0 of Marlin. Not sure if that's a typo or a valid value, anyhow setting it to 400 fixed it.
2
What may be confusing is the use of the naming of the mechanism "Auto Bed Levelling", or short ABL, does not make your build plate to level itself with respect to the frame of the printer1). Hence you are instructed to always tram (level is rather misleading as it doesn't involve bubble levelling, instead it is meant to tram the bed with respect to ...
2
The Ender 3 has a printable area of 220x220x250 mm according to the specifications. So, there is nothing wrong. Sometimes heated beds are slightly larger than the actual print area. E.g. 235x235 mm or 310x310 mm. For centering the nozzle to the build plate, you should look into "How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)&...
2
The correct Marlin-command to unpause seems to be setUserConfirmed(). I have tested that it works.
2
Okay, to anyone who is looking at this post, I am an idiot. I have spent the last 4 or more hours sifting through youtube videos and forum posts to figure out this problem. I have reinstalled firmware modifications dozens of times. All of this, to just now discover that I never had the bed or hotend cables connected. That's right, I never even considered the ...
2
The problem turned out to be mechanical. The arm that I mounted the camera on had developed a crack where it connects to the build platform. I used some superglue to repair the crack and the camera shaking went away.
The lesson here is to check EVERYTHING mechanical before trying to blame shaking on the firmware.
2
You could download the firmware version directly from the vendor and choose the one that is supposed to be on the board when it was shipped to you.
Put the bin file on the SD card from your laptop/computer and reinsert the SD card in the printer and start the printer.
2
Yes you can edit many parameters in Cura that may help with your problem.
However, I believe an easier fix to this problem may be to either apply some glue or masking tape to the bed before you try to change Cura settings since the problem only occurs with just one filament type..
2
Since nobody had any idea what cause the problem, I investigated for a full week.
The problem is related to Fade Height and .... a warp bed, since I have ABL (Auto Bed Levelling) and Fade Height enable. The compensation was way too big, something like -1.4 or bigger.
So, after I bought a new glass bed and set the fade height to 0 the problem is gone and the ...
2
Looking at your prints, the problem is possibly related to the fade out height of the BLTouch functionality.
If you look closely at the 20x20x20 mm cube:
half the print is fine (top half of the original correct cube)
the bottom "half" (not really half as it is stretched) is porous (grey, indicating more space allowed than the correct layer height ...
2
If you check TH3D's site, as of January 12, 2022, there's an updated Unified 2 firmware(Unified 2.36a) that is meant to correct this problem.
Announcement is here: Unified 2.36a is now live! | Firmware Update
Release Notes:
Bugfixes
Disable ABL fade height by default
Fix EZBoard V2 DIY Config Driver Type Setting
Other Changes
Update URLs in config files ...
2
I've solved this now. Here's the problem:
// pins_MELZI_CREALITY.h
#define SERVO0_PIN 20 // Wondering if this is correct?
Funnily enough, it wasn't correct. Pin 20 is the Z MIN pin, as defined in pins_MELZI_CREALITY.h, and not the servo pin used by the BLTouch module.
At 8:04 of this youtube video, he says that that value should be set to 27, "if we'...
2
Are you using Creality's pre-built software?
In that case, you must connect the two pins to the BLTouch port. Altogether, you would have all five wires connected there.
Are you using your own Marlin build?
In that case, you must uncomment #define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN in order to plug in those two wires into the Z end stop connector. Otherwise, ...
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