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read first When you use painters tape, you need to level your printer with the tape applied. You need to relevel if you change the tape type. Basics It's not any blue tape that printers love. There are basically two factors that make a tape useful: It has to stick during printing. Its surface has to allow the filament to stick to it. Let's look at some ...


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Masking tape (and blue painter's tape) is coated with a wax-based release agent in order to prevent the tape sticking to itself on the roll. This release agent must be removed with an organic solvent in order to obtain good adhesion. Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol is good for this. Acetone will also work, but it is a much stronger solvent (which is not ...


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Instead of masking tape, I would use BuildTac or some other similar surface. These are self-adhesive and come in various sizes. You can cut them down if they are too large for your bed. I'm using it on my Monoprice Select Mini with a heated bed and it works fine. I did have to experiment with the PLA I'm using in order to make sure it didn't adhere too ...


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Mick (other answerer) is spot-on with his advice on how to prep the masking tape to work well as an adhesion enhancer. Additionally: what material is the surface of your printing bed, and is the bed heated? If it is, just know that you may want to try with both heat on and off if you are using tape (it works worse for me and at least a friend of mine with ...


5

To answer your question, it doesn't have to be blue tape! To be honest, tape is not my favorite bed adhesion solution, there are plenty other options that work better than tape. Often you'll see references to blue painters tape (of a certain brand) to be used as a bed adhesion layer because many people have good experience with that. I have tried several ...


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Of course, I don't know what kind of tapes you have. My experience with blue tapes is, that they seem in general softer and "nicer" than white tapes. Their structure appears denser and they seem to have longer "furs" while the white ones are "dryer" and "sharper" This surface makes the blue tapes I sourced more suitable as the molten filament catches more ...


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I'll go out on a limb and suggest that, while your bed may be well-levelled, the Z-axis zero might be off. A difference of 10-20 microns can be the difference between strong adhesion to the bed/tape and having your print float away. If your first layer doesn't get "squashed flat" a bit by the nozzle, your extruder head is slightly higher than optimal.


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The tape probably would stick better to the Aluminum bed than the BuildTak clone sheet you have as it would have had more surface area to bond to. What I found that works best is to print on the bare aluminum bed using a PVA based spray, this can be hairspray or a specific 3D printer product like 3DLAC, or just glue stick. I ditched tape after day one (for ...


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Your printer has a build-tac clone surface. Blue tape does not stick well to that: you would get better results printing directly to the Build-Tac clone. Painter's tape I use only on a flat surface: it works well directly on glass, aluminium or an unheated fiberglass surface, but you absolutely need to include its thickness in the leveling.


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If the first layer is not sticking well to the bed it can be caused by several issues. Usually the height of the first layer plays a significant role as does the flatness of the bed. Temperature can definitely also play a role; you want the temperature to be close or at the glass transition temperature of the plastic filament when it is in a sort of fluid ...


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I'm Using Masking tape with no problems, your parameters are OK and just need to sand the surface before sending to print, use sand paper #120 or #150. The first layer height is 0.18 mm to 0.25 mm. The masking tape can be used for a lot of prints, you can change it every week to keep a good adhesion. I found that not all brands works fine, for example TUK ...


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The second image isn't exactly painter's tape. Both images are types of masking tape, but the common manila/cream-colored masking tape vs the blue or green painter's tape typically has three features that make it less desirable for bed adhesion: Stronger glue holding the tape to the bed, that will make it harder to change later. Narrower strips, so it's ...


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It really depends on the tape. In my case, I've used various types of blue painters tape in bed adhesion situations and have only had one occasion where it sticks to the part. (All experience is with PLA) Best advice I can give is give it a shot, and be sure to wait for the part to cool before removing it from the bed for the best chance at not having tape ...


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My Dad uses prittstick on the bed before the print and the bed keeps the prittstick just abbout the right temp for it to stick.


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