That is the lever that is meant to trigger your Z-Endstop. The variant used in your case is on the cheaper end and is meant to look similar to this QIAOH KN12-1 limit switch:
You will either exchange the endstop as a whole, somehow reattach the/a lever or change the physical position of the endstop so that the moving X-axis is ...
I figured out the issue. I think I was shoving it in the wrong hole.
I took apart my extruder component. There's a good video on it here.
But basically, you just have to loosen the two bottom screws on the side fan like this:
I checked everything out first. I cleaned the extruder head with the included pin. I also shoved the filament through the heated ...
For leveling your bed you do not require the use of a bubble level! This is not necessary, if you do, you need to place the printer on a bubble level underground. It is far easier to level the bed relative to the printer frame rather than to the outside world. Basically the bed and the X-axis (the axis that moves your nozzle) need to be parallel and each ...
The bar where the level is attached is the support cross-bar for the X-axis travel.
It's important this bar be level, but it's even more important the bar be true to the rest of the machine. We call this "leveling" the printer, but really the more accurate term is "tramming". If the bar is level, but the machine sits on an unlevel surface, things are out ...
The answer is that you have not used support structures. The printing fails as a result of missing support structures.
If you look closely to the Ace of Clubs card at the top, you will see that the lower point is being printed from out of nothing, this corner needs to be supported. When unsupported, the extruded filament flows freely and where it deposits ...
If you change the extruder wheel for a different sized wheel, you need to calibrate the extruder to make sure that if you ask to extrude 100 mm it actually extrudes 100 mm. This answer on the question "How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?" describes how to do that.
It is not required to flash your firmware. The G-code command M92 can be used to ...
Alright, I have figured everything out with the help of #reprap IRC community.
Issue #1 - Z axis not moving during zero. Just as tjb1 suggested the issue was that it thought it was hitting the endstop, I needed to invert the logic of the endstop within the configuration.h
const bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true;
Issue #2 - No Heated bed controls. The ...
There are several reasons why the nozzles can clog.
If you set the temperature too low, the force to push the filament through the nozzle gets up. This can lead to filament grinding and this can lead to clogging. If you set the temperature too high while not extruding, the filament can degrade, which may lead to clogging. So always test the ...
The Micro Swiss hotend uses an all metal hotend. These type of hotends are more difficult to operate considering they do not have a Teflon liner that shield the filament of heat creep. From this article:
Jams and clogs are often from a combination of excessive heat and
non-optimal material flow. This effect is worsened by poorly cooled
all-metal hot ...
This will affect your extrusion rate. The best place to change this would be in your E steps located in the firmware but you can also compensate for this by changing the flow percentage in Cura, a setting of 103% (10.9/10.6) should get you close.
You could experiment with the 'cleaning' part of the startup gcode shown here
G1 X100 Y0 F4000 ; move half way along the front edge
G1 Z1 ; move nozzle close to bed
M109 S200 ; heat nozzle to 200 degC and wait until reached
G4 P10000 ; wait 10 seconds for nozzle length to stabilize
G1 E10 ; extrude 10 mm of filament
G1 z15 F12000 E5 ; move 15 mm up, fast, ...
No, your problem is not related to slicing, this is a hardware problem. Your complete print has shifted, this is called layer shift.
This could happen when the nozzle hits an obstruction while printing while the Y stepper continues. This could lead to skipping teeth on the belts, slipping of the pulley or missing steps. This results in printing over air as ...
The tape probably would stick better to the Aluminum bed than the BuildTak clone sheet you have as it would have had more surface area to bond to.
What I found that works best is to print on the bare aluminum bed using a PVA based spray, this can be hairspray or a specific 3D printer product like 3DLAC, or just glue stick. I ditched tape after day one (for ...
Looking at the tread pattern on the filament, I think it's getting stuck. Note that the teeth marks get closer together as you go up the fillament, and the last one is a big divot, that looks like the gear trying to grab at it, and being unable to move it.
Are you seeing any drops in nozzle temp? I had a cooling fan kick in and drop temps low enough to ...
Your filament is 1.75 mm, but you specified 1.6 mm in the Filament option Diameter (mm).
Furthermore, your layer thickness is very small (0.06 mm), why not try 0.20 mm first; a thicker layer will cause a higher extrusion flow. It could be that the print speed is too high for the low layer size.
Your initial layer 0.3 mm is also high, the maximum for a 0.4 ...
Stringing can be fought by increasing the retraction length, but 6.5 mm (the default in Ultimaker Cura) is already pretty much. Please do note that too much retraction can lead to sucking air into the nozzle, which can lead to air pockets/holes.
Basically there are 3 mechanisms that are in play:
You have tried changing ...
There are a number of points missing, but I can offer a few suggestions. The re-leveling of the bed could have resulted in the bed now being in a position to block the nozzle. I have done exactly that in the past. A clean glass bed makes for a perfect clog.
The marks on the filament fit the description of a hobbed gear (extruder drive bolt) chewing into the ...
Unless you are using a calibrated temperature sensor, it is a question what the temperature will be.
Actually it doesn't really matter what the temperature exactly is, you just need to find the sweet spot for your filaments on your machine. With respect to reported temperatures by others, your settings may differ a little, but that does not matter.
After having similar issues to you, and becoming frustrated with having to scrape and pry so much, I bought a removeable magnetic build plate. I'm not extremely happy with the exact one I purchased, so I won't link it directly, but the concept and general execution is wonderful, compared to the standard build plate on the Maker Select.
Any magnetic build ...
When all other things have failed, I chuck the build plate in the freezer for half an hour.
The glassplate and the plastic changes size differently when changing temperature and 'pop' it just snaps off easily.
I sawed off about 2 mm from the (bed) screw in the photo so it wouldn't catch on the screws of the Y endstop. It now works as before.
If somebody has a more cerebral solution I will gladly `accept' it.
While using rafts with PLA is a good idea due to warping, PETG is a material that requires very little build plate adhesion.
When I printed with PLA, I would normally use a two layer raft with a 0.3 mm air gap. With PETG, however, I only need a skirt. I recommend calibrating your extruder height so that when you slide a piece of paper underneath, you ...
When I started work on mine, the bed leveling and radius (Delta-only issue) were horrid, and my erstwhile assistant was fond of using a LOT of glue stick, which sort-of made things work, though in many cases with no first layer extrusion.
As I sorted things out, I found an apparent bug (Repetier Host (Mac) and Marlin 1.1.0-RC8 firmware - not sure which side ...
What can you say just looking at this picture?
->There are 2 obvious observations that can be drawn from your image.
First, the bed does not seem to be levelled correctly, the right side (especially the front right corner) is closer to the nozzle than the left and left-back side.
Is it possible to tell from this calibration print which corners are
Both @Oscar and @Trish have identified the problem in their answers. Upon further investigation, I believe I found the root of the problem.
The Monoprice Select V2 has what I think is an inherent design flaw with how its wires are routed. The wire can sometimes (1) get caught on the frame (when the y-axis is moving towards its maximum position), (2) get ...
Your printer has a build-tac clone surface. Blue tape does not stick well to that: you would get better results printing directly to the Build-Tac clone.
Painter's tape I use only on a flat surface: it works well directly on glass, aluminium or an unheated fiberglass surface, but you absolutely need to include its thickness in the leveling.
No, the print is lost.
First thoughts after Update 1
Your print will not perfectly recover from this stringing issue, which to me looks to be unsupported bridging. I postulate that your slicing seems to be made with the model not aligned flat on the bottom correctly.
The biggest indicator for this is, that the brim is passing right underneath the model, so ...