5

After gaining more of an understanding of how Marlin works, I decided to look through the the pins file for the motherboard I am using "pins_ULTIMAIN_2.h". Sure enough, It had a the wrong pin number for the z stop specified. After changing that number, I gained full functionality. This is what they should be: #define X_STOP_PIN 22 #define ...


5

Print/material specific settings If you are printing too hot with too less distance, the support just fuses to the print object. Extra cooling, lower print temperature and support distance should be in balance to create easy to remove support structures with respect to an acceptable print object surface. If temperature and cooling cannot be balanced to ...


4

This is a so-called MK10 nozzle, it is larger than the normal nozzles you find (as you found out). There are quite a few questions on this nozzle, with e.g. this answer or this answer. This nozzle uses M7 (metric threads of 7 mm) to have more room to fit the PTFE tube (white tube) in the nozzle itself. This tube forms the barrier between the heating ...


3

What part fits? A replacement nozzle needs to fit 3 parameters: Thread diameter and pitch need to match up, to allow mounting Thread length should be close to the original to allow secure fastening The style needs to fit: there are quite some styles of nozzle - most are not lined, yours is PTFE lined to the nozzle (see also Can the filament tube be outside ...


2

If your printer's heated bed still works, but the sticker has been ripped in some places: You can try and remove the rest of the sticker, clean the metal plate under the sticker (perhaps with isopropyl alcohol) and then apply a new sticker once there is no adhesive remaining on the heated bed. You can remove the sticker with the method above, but instead of ...


2

Changing the Simplify3D start script to this will change the nozzle purge to the same length as what was on your SD card. G28 ; home all axes G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length G1 Z10 ; lower G1 E20 F200 ; purge nozzle quickly<---------Change E20 to E3, E is the extrusion length G1 E10 F60 ; purge nozzle slowly <----------Remove ...


2

The silver looking cylindrical nut (with the flat faces) between the brass block and the black metal plate is the heat break of the assembly. The brass block should be tightly fit to this heat break. You could turn the brass block to get a close fit again. The heat break itself can move in the upper part, black plate, the cold end by the set screw on the ...


2

Test out a couple different types and z distances. I've found that the 'lines' type on Cura turns out very well - they are generally easy to remove and leave few artifacts on the part. Some types of support I've found to be much more difficult to remove than others, I would recommend 'lines' or 'zig zag'. See the link at the bottom for all possible values. Z ...


2

If you navigate to e.g. the Marlin printer firmware configuration file for the Wanhao Duplicator 6 you will find that the steps per mm are defined as: /** * Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm) * Override with M92 * X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2...]] */ #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80.0395, 80.0395, 400.48, 99....


2

I shook off my laziness and disassembled the mounts holding the stepper motors and tightened the belts. After doing so the drift was resolved.


1

Ok, first of all you need to understand why the limit is given at 250 °C: that's when the hotend design chosen by the Monoprice starts to destroy its PETG liner. To print hotter, you'd need an unlined hotend, which means you'd need a proper all metal hotend. A proper all metal hodend is a tradeoff, not an upgrade: you sacrifice some ease of printing and risk ...


1

Looking at the picture, the first thing that came to mind was, "are you sure it's the bed?". The height variance looks very regular, and while I'm unfamiliar with this printer's specific mechanics, my thought process trended to the Ender 3 and other v-wheel extruder mounts. If the extruder and gantry carriages are mounted to the gantry spars on V-wheels ...


1

It’s possible to use a heat gun to smooth it off after removing the majority of the supports. It creates a glossy effect as well.


1

Changing slicer settings will ultimately help with future prints, but there is a tool that has been an absolute god send to me for cleaning up hard to clean up prints. Please, go pick one up. You won't regret it. They make life so much easier to clean up prints from hard to clean up materials.


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