8

The "magic numbers" are optimal values that work particularly well for the layer height. Michael O'Brien derived these numbers by reverse engineering the mechanics of the Z-axis stepper motor. Using these values as your layer height will generally improve your print quality over using round layer heights such as 0.15, 0.2, or 0.25 by eliminating ...


7

Solution - there is a set-screw and a square nut in that T-slot which holds the feeder fitting in place on the heat sink. One may well think (as I did) that the fitting is threaded into the heatsink, since it does have a big hex-head for a wrench. A small turn an the set screw lets go, the nut sliding down the slot with it. Thus when you inspect it, you ...


7

Unfortunately, the answer isn't as simple as that a specific size of SD card works and another size doesn't. The Marlin firmware wiki mentions: The SD- or MMC- Card must be formatted as FAT and must have a MMC interface. This is more likely with cards <= 2 GB. MMC is the predecessor of SD. SD cards are not necessarily fully backwards compatible ...


7

For an SD card to work with the printer firmware Monoprice suggests to format the SD card to FAT32. However, the Monoprice Select Mini V2 is not able to read SDHC memory cards, it is advised to use an SD card (smaller than 4 GB) instead. According to the Monoprice support website: "Why is my printer not reading my SD card?": If the SD card is not ...


5

The Monoprice Select Mini V2 uses a Bowden style extrusion system. Bowden extruders compress the filament in the tube where the gap between the filament and inner tube diameter allow for the filament to buckle slightly and compress causing a pressure build-up in the hotend. Without retraction this implies that the filament will start to ooze out of the ...


4

Your trouble lies within the presliced G-code: the temperatures are rather low for PLA and upping both by 10 degrees would be advisable: 200 °C for the Hotend 60 °C for the Bed Atop that, printing a raft for PLA is usually not advisable. Get yourself a slicer (the most common free ones I am comfortable with using are Cura, Slic3r and Slic3r Prusa Edition) ...


4

I have faced the same issue if it concerns just gaps between the walls (to the point you could put a nail in between the outer and inner perimeters, so clearly the perimeters were not bonding), for me this was fixed with proper tension of the belts of my Prusa i3 clone, and for my other (CoreXY) printer reducing the friction of the X-Y system. Both help ...


3

Too many files on SD card I removed some files and now it works, it seems like the menu would not load if the SD card contained more files than the printer could display on the print menu (they didn't take up a lot of space in memory, though).


3

It looks to me as the model did not have enough surface contact with the raft. This can be caused by to big of a gap between raft and model set in the slicer or because of Underextrusion. The part itself does not look underextruded, at least not a lot, so I would say that the slicer settings were not ideal. I would suggest you slice a part by yourself and ...


3

If you are heating your hotend to 60/80, that is WAY too low. PLA should be at 180+ hotend, and if you are using a heated bed, 60-80. I would try increasing the heat of your hotend, starting at 180 and increasing if it looks like it is underextruding or if you get more clogs.


3

Check the Z-drive for any component looseness. Look at belts, gears, anything with screws. Wiggle things mercilessly checking for play. At the start of a normal print run, the the print head typically rises up very high as the head warms up (depends on software) and then lowers to print. If your homing paper test happened with the head near the limit ...


3

If you enable the option "Coasting", the extruder will follow the extrusion path at the end of switching to the next layer or the next section, but will not deposit any material as it uses the build up pressure in the nozzle to deposit the final bits. This shows up in your G-code representation by empty (non-depositing) gaps (in reality, when fine-tuned ...


2

I dont know if I understand you correctly, but let me try... It could be that the wall-thickness of the part you try to print is to thin or is not "compatible" with your nozzle size. Lets say your nozzle and output size is 0.4mm. You now try to print a wall with a thickness of 1mm. So the printer will print 2 wall-perimeters (left and right) with a 0.4mm ...


2

I've no idea why 3D printers don't like SD cards formatted by operating system utilities, but they don't. Use SD Memory Card Formatter to format your memory cards. Unfortunately, you have probably lost any data that was on the original SD card. The SD cards that are supplied with 3D printers typically contain documentation, test files, and device drivers. ...


2

I was having problems formatting micro SD cards for my Monoprice Mini v2. I have some 256 MB cards tried formatting them FAT FAT32 etc, no luck. Then I downloaded a program called SD Memory Card Formatter did the format on the card with this and the card is now readable in the printer.


2

What I ended up doing was using the settings from the cat.gcode that came with the printer. It has a retraction of 10 mm specified, which I thought was a bit much, but if it works, it works.


2

Thanks for the comments! They led me to find this solution using PuTTY on Windows as my serial (COM) terminal. I guess one of my resets put the settings to 1/16th stepping whereas my hardware has 1/8th stepping. > M115 NAME: Malyan VER: 3.0 MODEL: M200 HW: HA04 ok N0 P15 B15 > M503 echo:Steps per unit: echo: M92 X93.00 Y93.00 Z1097....


2

This differs from the traditional banding as observed from Z wobble induced banding as e.g. explained in this answer. Your banding patterns clearly seem to form diagonal bands, this is most probably a combination of the lead and the full rotation of the stepper. The most logical explanation is that the layer shifts as a whole in X-Y direction (when seen ...


1

The push to release connection on the top of the heat sink may be secured with thread lock adhesive, but you should not have to remove it. Push the blue ring downward while pulling upward on the bowden tubing. It may be necessary to work it up and down while you push down on the blue locking fitting. I have to use a pair of pliers to hold the blue ring down ...


1

The print is extremely challenging, as it has a lot of thin diameter items growing up, a lot of overhangs and a rather small surface to hold to the bed. So you need a Brim and support: As OP found, a Brim is a setting that adds extra material in the first layer around the print to increase adhesion. Support Structures are to give an overhang something to ...


1

If you have it for years, have you ever replaced the Bowden tubes and hotend liner? This printer might be in need of some dire maintenance. Also check if the Bowden tube is securely fixed, if infill starts, it might be retraction that is giving problems by lifting the tube alongside the rectracted filament.


1

The grooves (notches, more accurately) are acceptable and indicate that your hobbed gear has a good grip on the filament. Many factors will cause your probably-correct diagnosis of under-extrusion. If you are confident that your extrusion settings are correct, you could have this problem from under-temperature on the nozzle. One method to assess this is to ...


1

If you have already used alcohol to eliminate grease and fingerprints, sometimes scrubbing the print surface with a regular green scotchbrite pad can restore adhesion. It micro-scratches the surface and seriously increases the surface area of contact. This all assumes you have properly calibrated the bed, reduced first layer print speed by at least 50%, ...


1

You could try a higher bed temp, but also check to make sure bed is levelled all round as this can sometimes cause this to happen


1

You get this temperature reading when there is broken wire. Not owning this printer type, can't you switch out the bed thermistor for a new one? Or alternatively check if a connection is loose.


1

If you go to the Monoprice website you will find a dedicated page for Ultimaker Cura. From the page you can read that: Cura now includes profiles for the MP Select Mini V1 and V2. Go to “Settings”, “Printer”, “Add Printer…”, “Other”. Select the radio button next to the printer, then “Add Printer”. So you must be able to configure it correctly for ...


1

I have had a similar thing happen when slicing a large piece that has - in real life - walls of about 2 cm. By scaling it down to 1.5%, this become less than the wall thickness, and the wall was simply omitted by CURA. In my experience, a model showing gaps can have in these locations a thickness less than 1 wall.


1

Yup I can tell at a glance it is under extrusion. I bet the issue is temp. Test your steps per MM for E. See https://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide Measure Required tools: vernier caliper with depth gauge, or similar tool that can precisely measure 100mm. Your hob effective diameter is unlikely to be exactly 7mm. Remove the ...


1

When printing someone else's model, your print is at the mercy of their design. Designing for multiple printers is hard work, and even if something is printable on 90% of printers, you may be in the 10%. Sometimes designs use walls too thin for other printers. On this design, the lanyard wall looks a bit thin but workable. My own card holder has a thicker ...


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible