That's the purging that Slic3r PE adds, the broad line of filament at the edge of the sheet. That is outside the official print volume, which triggers this error.
The G-Code generated by Slic3r PE at the start of the file contains the following lines:
G1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside print area
G1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro line
M73 Q0 S174
M73 P0 ...
The commands in your documentation only work with the Raspi camera. If that's the camera you're using, you can use the tools mentioned from terminal on your Raspberry Pi, or over SSH.
If you don't have SSH setup and are using your Raspberry Pi with a keyboard and mouse, you can access the command line by pressing ctrl+alt+f1 remembering that ctrl+alt+f7 ...
Yes, you can show more than 300 lines in the terminal; just disable auto scrolling (reference).
Disabling Autoscroll now completely disables cutting off the lines (so
you can have way more than 300 lines while that's disabled), filtering
has been improved too and doesn't cause scrolling anymore.
Note that with disabled autoscrolling, you will be able ...
By turning the knob in the main screen, you're adjusting "feed rate".
This is essentially a factor that all g-code speed settings are multiplied with - "speed dial" seems an appropriate name for it.
"Flow rate" is something different altogether - this is multiplied with the extrusion commands. It has the same effect as changing your extruders steps-per-mm.
Octoprint is a generic application that has to work with a rather wide variety of printers and printer firmwares. The time estimation that is shipped with Octoprint by default is a very basic method that doesn't rely on any specific printer features. This also makes it kind of useless in some cases, and not very accurate.
The estimate that the Prusa i3 Mk3 ...
You are describing precisely how the crash detection should work on the Prusa Mk3, so it is doing exactly what it should do. If you look into this video from Jozef Prusa you will see him explaining that in case a crash is detected (steps missed are registered because the Mk3 uses trinamic stepper drivers), the print head is homed and will immediately restart ...
What you are looking for is called a "buck converter" or a "step down module". These literally cost about half a buck/Euro a piece. These converters convert a high voltage into a low voltage, the better ones are able to draw 2 to 3 Amps, which is required for stable operation of the Raspberry Pi.
If you have an old computer power supply of a decent brand (...
From the sources of Marlin you can find how may fans you can use, even if you're not a coder it should be doable. From there you can find how to set the pins for the fans, provided that there are free unused and exposed (so that you do not have so solder directly to the microprocessor). First find how many fans are possible.
Starting in Marlin_main.cpp and ...
To use it locally you need to be able to view the desktop.
sudo raspi-config to pull up the config menu and enable boot to desktop.
If there is no browser installed already you'll need to install one.
sudo apt-get update
sudo apt-get install epiphany-browser
Open the browser and navigate to http://localhost/
I recommend configuring access control when it ...
I just discovered that OctoPrint only reads .gcode files for printing (apparently, unless you have a slicing software embedded in it), so I installed Slic3r separately, and ran
to generate a .gcode file (in the executable directory).
Then I uploaded the .gcode file to OctoPrint and things got moving.
I installed octoprint locally to help debug this problem.
Your code snippet says "def def Upload_File" which is a syntax error.
If you go into Octoprint, under Settings -> Logging, and download octoprint.log, you'll notice it says "WARNING - 400 POST /api/files/local (::1): No multipart boundary supplied". A quick google search led me to this StackOverflow ...
This answer is correct, it's normal for Prusa printers to purge at -3 mm on the Y axis.
This answer is an addition that describes how to get rid of the error.
Open Octoprint web UI
Go to Settings -> Printer Profiles
Find active profile, click on the pen icon next to it (Edit Profile)
Go to Print bed and build volume
Tick Custom bounding box
Enter -3 ...
You need to install a web-cam server on your Nettop. Octorint recommends Yawcam for windows and mjpg-streamer for linux.
OctoPrint has instructions for installing mjpg-streamer on a raspberry pi. The process should be very similar for a Nettop running Debian so its a ...
There are a few options to delay starting using either the OctoPrint environment or directly use G-code for this.
The use of G-code is probably the most simple for you to implement. The G4 command defines a "dwell" or pausing period for the next command to start:
Depending on the firmware you use, you can use the P or S parameter to specify the pausing ...
Before any axis can move the printer must be homed correctly (G28 command, or an equivalent home button, there are 2: an X/Y and a Z button). A correct printer profile must also be defined; this profile contains some bed geometry and speed data, these are some basic values that are easy to add through the wrench button and "printer profiles" menu item.
That bitrate is pretty low, which might explain the blockiness (is that a word?).
From YouTube's upload guidelines, you are encoding at the minimum recommended bitrate for standard 720P video. Maybe you should boost to 7500K (7.5 Mbps) and see if that helps.
Also, it appears that Octopi is merely calling ffmpeg locally and returning the video. The encoding ...
Specific answer: use "octopi.local" rather than "octopi", since that will properly resolve to the correct Octopi IP Address.
More generally, investigating the network traffic on my network (AT&T Fiber Home) revealed these facts regarding the octopi server:
With a browser, the octopi can be accessed via either "octopi:80" or "octopi.local:80".
You could mount your google drive using gdrivefs on your pi following this tutorial: https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=109587
However, I have to ask: why send the file to the internet? Is your printer/pi on a separate network than your desktop where you are slicing?
If they're on the same network, you'd be better off setting up a samba ...
Where are you plugging in the USB power to the Pi? If you are back powering it from the data connection, you will bypass the fuses and potentially ruin your Pi or worse. Look at this wiki under the power section:
Back-Powering; (powering the Raspberry Pi from a USB hub through the uplink/data port, single cable) Back powering is possible on the Raspberry ...
The program is pinging that address to check the internet connection to "prevent resource intensive operations if it's already clear that they won't succeed anyhow". It checks for connectivity, if it has it then it will check for update otherwise it won't check for an update.
Edit: Having now installed Octopi myself, I have found that they made it easy to rotate the image right from the interface. If you open the "Settings" and look under "Webcam & Timelapse", there are settings for flipping the image horizontally or vertically and for rotating 90 degrees.
There are a few ways to rotate the image of which I am aware. You can ...
You might have a case of clogged nozzle. You can check this easily by lifting the Z axis and running the extrusion motor. If it's grinding on filament or you notice extruded plastic is curling or going out slow, it's probably partial or total clog.
I have had the latter variant happen to myself recently, with the same symptoms as yours. Fixing it involved ...
Suggested remedies for 3-D printers which are not extruding required amount of filament:
First, check the temperature of the extruder. Try 220-225C to see if that improves the problem.
The second step is to increase the flow of the filament (increase mm/sec) for extruder speed.
A final step is to increase distance between extruder and base-plate. If the ...
For me it sounds like you've missed to install the CuraEngine for slicing, but I'm only guessing, as I'm not using OctoPrint at all.
Instead I'm using Cura directly and save gcode to a SD or use USB printing for quick/small prints.
There's a new timelapse plugin called octolapse that may help. One of the things I noticed with the default timelapses is that lots of things change from image to image, which results in HUGE amounts of mpeg artifacts as it has to constantly redraw large parts of the screen. With octolapse and it's stabilized images the change from image to image is very ...
You can manually edit the .profile by using an SSH terminal program (e.g putty) to log into your Pi
Then cd ./octoprint/slicingProfiles
ls to see folders (on mine I see cura)
ls to see profile files e.g fred.profile
sudo nano fred.profile
move down to where you can see the slicing parameters and edit away