9

Let's start with the general design look and feel: This printer contains a robotic arm with a toolhead, pretty similar to a welding robot, and probably is controlled with a similar CAM software. Picture by Robotics.org Tool head The really interesting part here is the tool head. So let's look at it and try to reverse engineer the use of some parts by how ...


8

This is a timing belt pulley. Specifically, is a GT2 timing pulley, 2 mm pitch (between teeth), 6 mm wide. The drive diameter is measured by the number of teeth (16 in this case) , the shaft diameter (bore) is measured in mm. The 'GT2' part refers to the tooth profile, some other examples are shown half way down this page.


6

It is quite likely not a thermocouple, but a thermistor: A thermocouple would look like a small blob of metal. The tip of your temperature sensor appears to be a glass bead, which is a commonly used way to encase thermistors. Thermocouples are polarized. The fact that the wiring is not "directional" suggests it is a thermistor. Thermocouples are used in ...


6

The Ender 3 takes an M6 thread (metric 6 mm diameter). Measurement of stock nozzle shown. Most sellers will list compatible printers Ender 2, Ender 3, Ender 4, CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 Mini, CR-10-S4, CR-10-S5, CR-8, CR-7. Will Also Fit Any Other MK10 Heater Blocks. I recently bought some titanium alloy nozzles as the brass one got closed over after ...


5

I can identify filament type by smell of it when it is hot. Touch it with solder or smth. PLA emits a sweet smell resembling the burnt sugar. ABS smells of chemicals. PVC smells of chemicals too, but this smell is very acrid and makes you sneeze. PVC is toxic to burn and to print! PC has a very peculiar smell. If you bottle that smell into air freshener ...


5

ABS dissolves in acetone, you could try clipping a small section and leave it in some acetone for a few minutes and if it begins to dissolve it's safe to assume that it's ABS, if not then you'll know that it's not. This won't confirm that it is PLA, only whether it's ABS or not.


5

To the best of my knowledge, it's just called a lead screw nut or lead nut. The flange and holes for attaching it to a surface are inherent in its role in letting the lead screw move something.


4

This answer already describes the name of the "golden" component you are after, this answer expands upon that answer to note that there are various nuts with different thread sizes that look virtually the same, it would be a pity to order the incorrect one. Note that this trapezoidal lead screw nut is made from brass (e.i. in your image, but these nuts are ...


3

This is a NEMA 17 motor. It is virtually identical to the NEMA 17 motors Creality uses in most of their 12V products. In contrast to other companies, Creality uses a different connector with a flat ribbon cable instead of color-coded wires. The upper line of the label identifies it more clearly: JD Identifies the factory/manufacturer 42 identifies the ...


3

Using The Burn Test to Identify Plastic Materials is one way. From the link: To initially determine whether a material is thermoplastic (meltable) or thermoset (non-meltable) type, heat a metal or glass stirring rod until it glows red or orange (to about 500°F / 260°C) and press it against the sample. If the sample softens, the material is a thermoplastic; ...


3

There is a trick. However I would like to mention that chances are that the random spool you pickup from most stores, especially no name brands, are either completely lying to you about its material or is mixed / cut with cheaper fillers. All about finding a good brand. Course rarely does one actually need pure PLA, a mixed material will often perform as ...


3

There is no such thing as a single MK10 hotend design. The Chinese aftermarket has mingled the designations. If it has a MK10 like Makerbot hotend, then the nozzles you are looking for are M7 threads. It appears (see this answer) that your hotend is a cloned MK10 and has different dimensions, you have the M6 version. Quote from link above: (this is about ...


2

I know this question is old, but the existing answers are all overly general relative to the question. If someone is in OP's same sitution, the "prints at 210/50" data point pretty much guarantees it's PLA. No subjective "smell tests" or playing with fire needed. The comments indicated some doubt that it's PLA due to lack of "sweet" odor, but PLA has very ...


2

The printer on picture looks like LulzBot TAZ. It could be some prototype or a self-made built or just inspired by it (as it is a digital rendition), because there is no sign of any branding on it. There are similar builds on Thingiverse.


2

This file simply is not on Thingiverse. Not all files are on Thingiverse. A Google reverse-image-search for that picture in all size told me that the image stems from an all3dp article, and they have a reference link to Pinshape as it is presented here: The file name of the linked picture is universal-phone-tripod-mount-3d-printing-155113.jpg Taking that as ...


2

In the video, there is this still from 0:32: The labeling is iPro 8000, which is a 3dSystems resin printer using SLA technology.


1

If you look at the video at 37 seconds, it appears to be SLA or DLP. Further reading: https://www.solidprint3d.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/SLA_vs_DLP.pdf


1

The board that's installed in your machine appears to be the Creality v2.4 / v2.4.1 board, which is the correct board for your printer. It is distinguishable by the 30-pin ribbon connector, which is used to connect to the rest of the printer. The board in the tech support pictures is the v2.5.2 "silent board", designed for printers such as the non-...


1

To be sure you could measure the width and the tooth spacing (pitch). The most probable and used belt in 3D printers is the GT2 6 mm belt. The teeth are spaced 2 mm and the width is 6 mm.


1

It is an "aluminum timing pulley" https://www.google.com/search?psb=1&tbm=shop&q=aluminum%20timing%20pulley&ved=0CAMQr4sDKAFqFwoTCMis1KHmiuMCFRoMswAdMqUElxAB https://www.ebay.com/i/152446519860?chn=ps&var=453435947176


1

Most mods are not drop in replacements and require a mount to be printed and software modifications. the whole reason to replace a hot end is to be able to print nylon and others like Nylon X ect. ect. i would suggest a Slice Engineering Mosquito hot end with a BMG direct drive. then top it off with a Ruby nozzle then never worry about things again. dealing ...


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