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4

No hotend upgrade is required to print PETG on an Ender 3 (pro or any other variant). The stock hotend can be used at temperatures up to 250 ˚C, and 230-245 ˚C is the range typically recommended for PETG. I print it at 245 ˚C. You may however want to upgrade the extruder. The stock extruder lacks both torque and grip, and significantly skips/slips when ...


4

Are you sure the 130 E-steps is correct for your extruder? You don't mention what extruder you're using, but presumably, it's something other than just moving the original extruder to a direct drive mounting position or that would be extreme over extrusion. Assuming that's right, the most likely cause is having the nozzle too close to the bed, so that there'...


3

You should do a complete calibration for ABS (temperature tower, E steps, flowrate %) before starting the print, then when you change filament remember to apply all the parameters I mentioned. While I'm not in favour of using the flow rate % to correct the E steps calibration, since you are doing it mid print this may be the easiest way, instead of changing ...


3

The density of the filament can be specified in the material model of the filament in Cura (Preferences -> Configure Cura... -> Materials and click on the material/filament you are using to slice your model for PETG), look at the value behind Density, the PETG filament I use is using 1.28 g/cm³ (PETG Economy Black -> Specification >). This field ...


3

It turned out, it was a faulty heater, that wasn't able to reach and maintain temperatures over 195 °C in a stable manner. The order came, had a new 50 W heater, thermistor and a PTFE-Bowden tube. It works just fine again, now!


2

The Ender 3 (original, pro, or v2) does not need any modifications/upgrades to print PETG. Temperatures of 230-235 °C are sufficient for PETG and well under the 250 °C that's not recommended to be exceeded on a machine with PTFE lining all the way to the hotend. PTFE doesn't melt above these temperatures, but it does start to break down and release chemicals ...


2

I'm adding this answer to somewhat challenge the findings of my original answer, and the premise of the question: PETG does not need lower print speeds, and can even be printed at higher speeds than PLA under some conditions due to reduced need for cooling. You can see this from some of the "#speedboatrace" entries printed with PETG. So what was ...


2

Removable steel spring sheet with PEI textured coatings I have been using textured PEI string sheet for most of my prints, just love it. Prints attach so good but not hard to remove(with proper nozzole Z-offset). If the prints are small and seems hard to remove,heating up the bed helps a lot. Almost never used the smooth side, even with proper z-offset, it ...


2

No PETG is a material that can only be used in FDM machines. This precludes any internal medical use, as FDM prints can't be made sterile or even hygienic - the sterilization processes would destroy the print, and FDM layers create many spots for germs to grow. Atop that, you can't get the needed precision with FDM - which means any FDM prints are at best ...


2

I had this problem with my Ender 3 until I changed to a different extruder and now PETG never has adhesion problems. Even 100 % fan is fine at 245 °C. I think the stock hobbed gear just slips on PETG really badly, giving underextrusion. Go slow, increase the flow to compensate, and possibly increase temperature slightly more. Or buy a decent extruder.


2

Likely underextrusion. The Ender 3's extruder is particularly bad at PETG and slips a lot unless you go really slow, like 3 mm³/s (about 40 mm/s at 0.2 mm layers and 0.4 mm line width) or lower. For a long time I thought this was a limitation of the material, at least without a really powerful hotend, and wondered why anyone liked it. But after replacing the ...


1

I got a roll of Hatchbox PETG and the prints are fantastic. Small test prints don't break along the layers even at higher fan speeds. The problem was the Polymax PETG. I took a look at the TDS for it and the impact strength on standing samples was only 29% of the standing ones. I believe the Polymax PETG just has inherent layer adhesion problems. Please ...


1

What you are seeing is what is called the 'seam'. Since this part cannot be printed in vase mode (where the extrusion is essentially done as a compressed spiral), there is a point where the printing on a layer ends, and the printer moves to the next layer. This is where the seam is formed. Blobs that form at this change in layers are not uncommon, but the ...


1

You can place a 2-4 mm thick MDF board on the bed and print directly on it, or you can place a 2 mm thick cork foil (IKEA office desk supplies) between magnetic plate and aluminium heater. The magnetic plate should not absorb too much heat and the cork will avoid conduction to the aluminium heater. If you want to avoid the magnetic plate, print on paper/...


1

I don't know about PVP but PVA sticks more at room temperature and gets weaker at higher temperatures, see "Influence of temperature on the strength of bonded joints" I remember using hairspray with PVA for PETG and it was really difficult to detach large parts.


1

So it looks like I finally resolved that issue. I compiled a complete new firmware based on the Marlin bugfix branch. Before I was working on the sources provided in the Bigtreetech GitHub. I started from scratch and put all the settings I needed into the Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h. Now all rings are gone. Either there was really a bug or ...


1

The surface won't work The only true-metallic surface treatments I know to be actual metal in large enough amounts to conduct electricity would be leafmetal, akin to leaf gold, and electroplating. However, you can't use the procedures for stainless steels, and even then, the thickness is in the tenth of a µm area and lower. Not only would that be far too ...


1

I find my Ender 3 Max has "phases" where each and every print will end in a thermal error, always at layer 2. During these phases, I disable retraction to keep the flow of filament constant through the hot end and into the nozzle. While my prints are a little messier than I would like, more often than not they actually finish. Another thing that ...


1

A strong epoxy like BSI 5-15 min works great for me. I use it to bond high power rocket fin halves printed from PETG:


1

Try to lift the nozzle more than you'd do even for PLA. PETG sticks really well to the heated bed. If your bed is already well leveled you can adjust the nozzle position in Z by using Z offsets directly in your slicing software (AFAIK, Cura needs an extra plugin for it, Prusa Slicer has it built-in). If you have done everything correctly, the PETG model ...


1

Playing around with the nozzle height will help: back it off until just before you have first layer adhesion issues. Don't jam the filament into the bed as you might for ABS. This helps with small prints. However, my experience has been that if you have a large enough continuous contact area (i.e. more than a few square inches) with the print bed, there ...


1

Correctly level your bed. Seriously, that's the answer. PETG does stick well, but it only gets difficult to remove if you're smashing the first layer against the bed with a nozzle that's way too close. With the bed leveled properly - using feeler gauges or test prints and a sub-0.1-mm-precision caliper - I have no trouble taking PETG prints off a buildtak-...


1

The proper way to optimise bed temperature (which depends on material, sometimes brand, bed material) is to follow these instructions which basically consist in: print a wedge multiple times changing only the bed temperature pick the temperature where the adhesion is the best. Typically PETG works with 50-70 °C bed temperature. 80 °C is likely too high (...


1

I find bed adhesion is fine with blue tape at 70 °C. PETG doesn't like to be squished onto the bed like PLA, so try using something like a business card to level the bed. Try printing with a brim (I believe what you used in the picture is a skirt; you want the one that is attached to the part) and start with no cooling. Ramp up cooling to the minimum you ...


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