8

Here's the pattern. The problem is, you didn't slice the g-code using support. It won't print right without it.


7

It looks like your first layer is way too close to the bed. The printer is trying to squash the plastic down very thinly, resulting in inconsistent extrusion. You will likely see better results if you move the nozzle away from the bed a little bit. Increasing the thickness of the first layer might help as well (this is a setting in your slicer). Keep in ...


6

First things first: Don't Panic Your heated bed is made from metal with some sort of Build-Tak-Clone surface. It is not broken from what I can see. Your print is not failed, however, the quality does suffer a little bit. Your bed does warp a little under heating. That is perfectly normal, and you should actually calibrate your layer thickness against a hot ...


5

I have tried to print the piece upside-down with the cave part facing down and it worked. Since the printer prints upside down, positioning the cave part facing up creates a suction-cup effect on the printer display that makes the whole structure stick to the lcd and detach from the supporting structure, thus making the print fail.


5

Special characters like Ä Ö or Ü in the stl-filename resulted in Ultimaker Cura creating a comment of the filename in the g-code that read like ;MESH:Loki_hörner_v2.stl This apparently could not be parsed by the Anet A8, leading to an error and halt.


4

Avoid naming .gcode files with non-ASCII characters (this includes EASCII) I know of no firmware on a printer that can handle files that have characters not present in the set of 95 non-control American Standard Code for Information Interchange characters by default. Marlin, for example, can't process the characters ä ö ü & € as these all are missing in ...


4

So, contrary to what people were saying, my problem came from my spring that controlled filament flow. There was too much tension and it caused motor skipping. I did get rid of the overlap with the blue tape, but otherwise I had to clamp down my spring and that fixed the issue.


4

Your trouble lies within the presliced G-code: the temperatures are rather low for PLA and upping both by 10 degrees would be advisable: 200 °C for the Hotend 60 °C for the Bed Atop that, printing a raft for PLA is usually not advisable. Get yourself a slicer (the most common free ones I am comfortable with using are Cura, Slic3r and Slic3r Prusa Edition) ...


3

It looks to me like you have corner curling on overhangs, which can be contributed to by a mix of: overextrusion (poor dimensional accuracy of filament or wrong filament diameter setting) uneven extrusion (due to changes in the print head motion faster than the flow response to changes in the extruder) uneven cooling (especially due to proximity of one side ...


3

It looks to me as the model did not have enough surface contact with the raft. This can be caused by to big of a gap between raft and model set in the slicer or because of Underextrusion. The part itself does not look underextruded, at least not a lot, so I would say that the slicer settings were not ideal. I would suggest you slice a part by yourself and ...


3

This sounds like a problem I had with my hotend cooling fan a couple years back. To answer your question, from what I'm reading, the Prusa3D firmware detects thermal runaway if the hotend temperature drops for more than 45 seconds, it detects an open-circuit by reading 16 °C or less (MINTEMP error), and detects a short by reading 310 °C or ...


3

This is partial answer and comment as it was too big to fit the comment section, it will be a proper answer once the question is updated by the OP. What you call a weird spiral pattern is the result of under-extrusion. When there is under-extrusion, the resulting print is sparsely filled. The reason for this under-extrusion is most probably partial clogging ...


3

No, your problem is not related to slicing, this is a hardware problem. Your complete print has shifted, this is called layer shift. This could happen when the nozzle hits an obstruction while printing while the Y stepper continues. This could lead to skipping teeth on the belts, slipping of the pulley or missing steps. This results in printing over air as ...


3

This effect is called layer shifting . Now that you know what it is called you could look at some other solutions fixing this issue; e.g. here, here or here. The answers of this question describe best what is causing this. Usually (most of all the cases) it means that your belts are not tight enough. An edit of the question shows that the effect happens ...


3

First, you shouldn't need a raft for most PLA prints. That will help you get better bed adhesion at lower temperatures. Second, you can reduce the stringing by increasing travel speeds (120 mm/s is not too fast) and a small amount of retraction: around 1.5 mm for direct drive and 5-6 mm for bowden. With those settings, you should be able to ...


3

You are trying to print an unsupported edge up there - the top edge has nothing to rest on and thus sags down. As a result, the print failed. To remedy this, activate printing with support. With a support angle of 80° or tree support, you could minimize the needed material.


2

This intermittent underextrusion can be caused by a broken part in the extruder on the CR-10 / Ender 3. Check if the plastic mount that holds the idler wheel in place is torn. Depending on the height and the resulting varying tension from the filament the idler wheel gets in and out of alignment.


2

No, the print is lost. First thoughts after Update 1 Your print will not perfectly recover from this stringing issue, which to me looks to be unsupported bridging. I postulate that your slicing seems to be made with the model not aligned flat on the bottom correctly. The biggest indicator for this is, that the brim is passing right underneath the model, so ...


2

I believe what you are experiencing is the stepper motors getting offset during the print, usually due to the nozzle colliding into the model (but possibly also due to very high printing speeds). Basically, the stepper motors used in most 3D printers will always make moves relative to their current position (as opposed to absolute positioning). In other ...


2

Both @Oscar and @Trish have identified the problem in their answers. Upon further investigation, I believe I found the root of the problem. The Monoprice Select V2 has what I think is an inherent design flaw with how its wires are routed. The wire can sometimes (1) get caught on the frame (when the y-axis is moving towards its maximum position), (2) get ...


2

Part of your self-answer: What is puzzling is why did the 3D printer run as if the computer was still operating it, when is was printing from the SD card? Was the circuitry getting power from the USB cable from the computer? is more of an extension of the question, which I'll answer. Generally, yes, the logic of many (most?) 3D printers can be powered by ...


2

Is the laser (or whatever light source it uses) visible? The cloudy film sounds like a good candidate for light diffusion and thus solidifying the entire resin, but if there are visible components to the light source it may help narrow it down. If it uses a projector ("LCD") solutions, it may also be that the display that filters the light to certain ...


2

Here is the important information from your question: If I set the temperatures high enough to allow initial sticking, the raft prints okay, but after that the filament leaks out of the nozzle during long moves producing strings (only a little unsightly when outside the print area, but causing bumps when moves over the build and eventually the nozzle ...


2

Try bed at 50°C and hotend at 215°C, these are safe values. Enable retraction in the slicer, to avoid/reduce oozing during long moves, but with Bowden setups finding a good value is trickier. Try with 6 mm. Set the first layer height properly, but do it AFTER the bed has been heated for 5-10 minutes.


2

After I finally had the time to disassemble the extruder and I found a possible culprit - which did solve the issue for some time. As you can see on the pictures the heater block leaked and this lead to some filament dripping off of the side and onto the print. The nozzle then eventually caught these drips and this caused the mess. Here are some tipps for ...


1

If you get one of those lazer pointer thermometer things from the hardware store for checking the temperature of hot water pipes and stuff you can usually heat your hot end up and look at the actual temperature of your nozzle. If it's hotter or colder than the temperature that your filment is rated for them there should be a line of code in your firmware ...


1

As this is material dependant, you are facing not a printer, but a settings issue: your slicer needs the right settigns to print PETG. The first layers look good, but then we get signs of stringy printing. Stringy printing usually happens if the filament comes out of the nozzle too cold (I had tried to print PLA at 170 °C and it would look somewhat similar) ...


1

let's go step by step - and rule out the unlikely sources. Since you get at least some results, UV source and screen seem unlikely. Then you might want to make sure that the resin is ok. Let's try to put a droplet onto a sheet of paper/foil, which you tape down outside in the sun or under a UV light source - if it cures, the resin is ok. The first real step ...


1

This looks like either the nozzle had been clogged for some layers and it resolved itself or the g-code contained incorrect instructions. I suggest altering your print settings slightly and reslicing, then just printing it again. To get more accuracy on the prints, I suggest a line width of 0.45 mm.


1

The first thing to check is the transparent sheet itself - are there any defects (rough patches, creases, grazes) in the area in which the print was stuck to the "transparent sheet"[1]. This will cause the newly cured layers to cling better to that sheet than they should in that area, and likely caused the failure. If the sheet is marked in any way in that ...


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