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2

The test print in your question used an SLS printer. The other common alternative is FDM. For narrow outer walls with FDM printers, you want to think in exact multiples of the nozzle size. Furthermore, unless the printer is well-tuned, you usually want at least two rows for the outer wall. Otherwise any flaw at all in the outer wall leaves gaps or tears in ...


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I would say that it IS stringing. If you have a Bowden setup, AND you have a different filament, your retraction may need to be tuned! If this is not a Vase Mode (no separate layers, but a continuous stream, these could be because the start/stop point of the layer change is not "fixed"...Check that setting in the slicer! While it looks like ...


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My Man, The Ender 3 SMarlin firmware saves your E-Steps on the SD Card and you basicly have to check the E-Steps every startup because the Firmware sets back the E-Steps Value every shutdown to the minimum 93. Thats a known issue of the Enders and still on the Mk.3 aka Ender 3v2 present. Its an easy Fix


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These artifacts can be either moisture, as explored by this answer or problems with temperature/speed control or the Z-Axis: If the temperature is not hot enough, the filament might not get melted enough to squish down to the next layer nicely at the speed the head moves at, resulting in the cooling filament getting dragged behind the printhead and forming a ...


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What you're seeing does not look like stringing, which I would characterize as material that exited the nozzle after extrusion was supposed to have stopped, usually due to missing or insufficient retraction, but like the extrusions along the concave contours failed to bond to the previous layer and got drawn across to a point on the other side of the contour ...


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If bed temperature is the cause, but you need that temperature for the first layer to stick, Use that bed temperature for the firsts layer, then set the bed temperature lower for subsequent layers.


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Elephant's foot can be caused by different causes. Incorrect leveling or incorrect nozzle to bed distanceThis answer describes that it can be caused by a too low nozzle to bed distance. Bed temperatureA too high bed temperature and weight of the print can cause bulging out of the bottom layers. This also frequently occurs as the result of an uncooled/too ...


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Elephant foot on an FDM machine is typically caused by more material (filament) being present in that layer than it has space for. The most common cause of this is your z-zero is too low, so for the first layer the nozzle starts too close to the bed and the filament gets "squeezed" laterally. You can try adjusting your z-zero or z-stop to allow ...


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Personally, I have dealt with this problem myself! I messed around with the slicer a little bit, and I found that if you make the print layer height 0.15 or 0.10 mm, it will be better. The image you attached looks as though the printer was splitting a step and only printing that part. I can't think of a reason why it would do that. I also can't find anything ...


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Not sure if you're still actively working on this but my setup mirrors yours almost perfectly, I added an all metal extruder, Micro Swiss hotend, a BLTouch, yellow bed springs and Capricorn tube and got great results but needed more cooling so I changed to the Hero Me Gen 5 using 2 5015 blowers and a Noctua 40x20 fan with a buck converter set to 12 V and ...


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I have this exact problem on the new , V2 Ender, and to be honest it’s becoming a pain. I also had, as many do the dreaded , fault of were the stepper motor does not sit square when tightened. How this can be still a major problem seen by many is beyond me.that Creality cannot fix this yet is crazy. Anyway I will also agree it’s definitely the rollers and ...


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