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I had this exact issue - PLA wasn't sticking to itself. It was intermittently being dragged around by the nozzle, and prints literally fell apart when removing them. The problem: bad filament. I bought a new roll and the printer worked fine afterward.


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The following is from the article "Elephant's Foot - Easy Fixes" on All3DP.com As we’ve explained, elephant’s foot most often occurs as the result of an uncooled first layer. If the temperature of the print bed is too high, or if there’s insufficient cooling, the first layer may not cool properly, causing elephant’s foot. Here are a few things ...


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I'd suggest running through basic maintenance. Check Is the nozzle clean/unblocked? If not clean it out Is the nozzle worn? If so, replace it Is the bowden tube okay in the hot end ? If not, replace, or at least shorten it. Are your e-steps calibrated correctly? ...etc Also consider whatever mods were made, and whether they help or not. There's a ...


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The way to optimise retraction is to use this retraction optimisation tool, which tests various retraction distances and speeds. Remember to perform this calibration AFTER you set pressure or linear advance, which has a higher priority. You will be able to pick the settings which work the best for that filament brand and type. You will have to do it again ...


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Something strange happened to me (Ender 3 with CR Touch), changed my firmware and stringing happened. I was slicing with Cura and went through three days of breaking my head. You know how I fixed it? Simple, I looked for a pre-made retraction temp. And guess what? It was the slicer all along. I changed to Simplify3D and all of my stringing disappeared. I can'...


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I noticed that these problems happen when there are retractions on layers. I don't have problems with round and simple objects without changes on layers or where all layers are identical. Based on the above, this is not a heat related problem. It's likely inconsistent amounts of material lost from the nozzle just prior to the affected walls. This could be ...


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That kind of issues can be related to multiple causes: Heated bed operated in "bang bang" mode (heater on until set temp reached, turned off until set temp minus threshold is reached, and so on), which causes periodic expansion and contraction. It is solved by using PID algorithm for bed heating The slicer is set with a minimum layer time and the ...


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I'd probably start with ensuring the bed is level (you can use a bubble/spirit level if done manually) and/or move any fans in the room as those could cause inconsistent cooling rates causing it to warp (among other issues). To make troubleshooting easier on yourself and if you are able, try to only print 10 layers or so. This can be done by modifying the G-...


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Long story short, laying the design horizontally is a lot less problematic when compared to laying it vertically. I'll explain: [ Vertical ] Bridging becomes more of an issue with the edge overhang. You'd need stilts to support the overhang which would fill the entire inside of your case. Wear on the printer is a concern because of the short travel distance....


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You've already got the correct answer, but I want to address an additional misconception in your question: head movement efficiency. Most 3D print jobs are acceleration-bound, not top-speed-bound. Without really cranking up the acceleration limits (which requires Klipper and input shaper tuning), the head will only reach the requested speed on long linear ...


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The second placement is a better choice from an overall standpoint. In the vertical placement, adhesion is going to be more critical, although Prusa printers have good bonding for PLA and ABS, from my direct experience. The other aspect of more importance is that the holes are going to be distorted in the vertical arrangement. The cut-outs in the smaller ...


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If the print bed is contaminated with oil or fat, print bed adhesion may be too low. Cleaning with alcohol might help.


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