27

It looks like those clips are thin and need to bend pretty far to let the vial out. Try to make the clips thicker, but with a smaller clip to retain the vial so that it doesn't have to bend as much. This is what I'm thinking, in beautiful MS-PAINT form:


13

3D Matter has published an excellent article on the subject. They find that thicker layers result in a stronger part, with 0.3mm layers giving a part that is around 24% stronger than the same part printed with 0.1mm layers. One small issue with this study is that it did not look at the effects of temperature. Raising the temperature generally results in ...


11

I agree with the previous assessments -- printing vertically for that part of the clip will definitely alleviate the layer adhesion being your weak point. You might also consider splitting that clip as a separate modular piece (which will clip/socket/bolt into the stand). Depending on implementation, this would give you the ability to Print that part ...


8

Considering that you wish to print the clip in the vertical orientation but without supports, I would suggest that you create a suitable taper of the clip from the bottom. The taper would provide necessary support-free support but may reduce the amount of bottle access one has to remove it from the clips. As such, you could also reduce the amount of the ...


6

Come on. Wider clips will just survive a bit longer. The real cause is the orientation (plane) of printing. Continues filament layer will always be more durable than few layers sticked together. So the question is why not to change printing plane? You can use better design which utilizes support without using "support material"


5

For these kind of tests you could rely on the ASTM standards. They define test procedures and test specimen sizes for different types of tests. Or you can derive a specimen yourself based on these standards (e.g. for my bachelor's degree I used an alternative notch impact specimen as I was bound to the amount of available material of the turbine rotor blade ...


4

All printers are designed with an idea of WYSIWYG for sure. Depending on: printer - type/quality/settings/configuration/assembly precission filament - type/quality/shrinkage user skills - manual/using app proficiency model complexity environment conditions and so on you can get different results. I venture to say users know their printers (after some time ...


4

As alluded to in 0scar's answer, it is important to stick to multiples of your nozzle width for thin shells. If you try to print a 1mm wall with a 0.4mm nozzle, you give the slicer a bit of a challenge in filling the joint between the two outer faces. Maybe it can print a half-width line, by under extruding, maybe not - but a 0.8mm wall is likely to be ...


4

This totally depends on what you think is acceptable for your print, and what the usage of the print is: is it a structural/functional part or just for aesthetic purposes. There is no general rule of thumb for that. Basically this is a design issue. If it has to be stiff and may not flex much you would require to use more walls to give it more rigidity. ...


4

I have not been able to find a simple model for FDM part strength. FDM parts are pretty complicated as they have a LOT more things that affect their strength than just layer adhesion. Since any "solid" part will have infill, the part can't really be modeled as a laminant. There are so many settings you can play with in the slicer that effects part ...


4

It's difficult to determine if the buckets are fully enclosed, but I suspect that they are. The enclosure into which the inserts are placed will provide some structural support. 3D printed objects have relatively low torsion strength, but a reasonable compression strength, especially with high infill levels. One could consider that the item placed into the ...


4

The Short Just print vertically Reduce the clip size to bring them closer to the centerline Try a vapor treatment or epoxy to increase strength The Long Ultimately, printing the object vertically (so the clips are printed horizontally) would be the strongest solution. Alternatively, you could adjust your model to bring down the size of the clips to ...


3

Printing the model vertically should certainly be considered, as that will alleviate your issue by a whole lot. If altering the design by adding a taper to your model isn't what you are looking for, placing a manual, removable support structure at the outer edge og the overhang could also be an option. This way, you could print the overhang as a bridge, ...


3

This is a good question, which hadn't received enough researchers' attention. People regularly print different objects, some of them with strength requirements and the need for a method of strength estimation is high. Good experimental way to estimate the change would be to find a COTS cast plastic object, be it ABS or PLA or whatever, buy 3-5 pieces, then ...


3

It's hard to tell without actually testing the part. There are many ways you can 3D print a part, even on the same machine, that can yield different results. Here are some tips to help uphold strength requirements: Identify where your stresses are and avoid allowing the natural "grain" of the print (i.e. each layer) to coincide with the stresses of the ...


3

If your real question is what would be the strongest then I say - the solid would be the strongest - no doubt. But if the question is: what be the strongest in comparison to weight or what is the strongest in comparison to the cost (amount of material) then these are good questions! You can of course find many tutorials and comparisons on the net and ...


3

Really the only thing that would matter for this project is the amount of torque the motor has available and subsequently how heavy your setup is that is connected to the motor. A part that size may just be too heavy for a CD-ROM motor if you intend on adding more parts. However, to answer your question, ABS should be able to endure the stress. I recommend ...


3

A book you would benefit from reading is "Functional Design for 3D Printing...Designing 3D Printed things for everyday use - 2nd Edition" by Clifford Smyth. It deals with FDM printing only. It deals with considerations of orientation of the parts being printed to address required strength in the 3 directions (x, y, z), tolerances, and designing parts in ...


3

I think the reason why the large cylinder is breaking much easier than the smokestack would is because of leverage. If you print the same cylinder at a much smaller scale it might be more difficult to break it. Think of taking a wooden stick, if you try to snap it by holding both hands near the center, it would be difficult but if you push on the very ends, ...


3

No matter what you do, the adhesion between layers will never be as strong as the adhesion in the direction of layer application. It's analogous to a wooden baseball bat (for those old enough to remember them :-) ). If you apply force perpendicular to the "grain," i.e. growth layers, it's strong. If you apply force along the grain, it'll snap pretty ...


3

It is my understanding that you are looking to print the insert not the gimble bucket. The gimble bucket portion would be difficult and have high risk. Fdm 3d printing looks like it would be a good solution for the inserts. 3D prints have a high strength-to-weight ratio especially in compression and will easily hold their weight and 150g. If the insert is ...


3

When water gets absorbed into the filament, it causes some of the long chain polymers to break. This is a permanent reaction that cannot be fixed by baking the filament, which typically results in the embrittlement of the material. This is true for both the filament and the printed part.


3

PLA seems to become brittle with age. Micro-fractures develop on the surface, and they will grow if filament is taken off the spool and held straight. This behaviour does not seem to be linked to moisture content. The best course of action is probably to use PLA quickly. Don't give it time to age.


2

Strictly speaking, it is difficult to do calculations on these materials, but not impossible (I've heard about a few commercial analysis tools that do that). The FDM process (Fused Deposition Modeling) creates a product based of fused slices of material causing an anisotropic material (this means that the properties of the material are different in different ...


1

Infill has minimal effect on the strength of printed parts, so I would expect the part to break in the same spot regardless of what infill percentage you used. PLA is especially poor in this exact application, and it undergoes significant creep/cold flow under mechanical compression over time, so even if achieved the necessary strength by changing settings ...


1

(Note: I realize this question is old, but I came across it looking for information on related topics and it didn't seem to have any sufficiently good answers yet.) To me, this looks exactly like what I'd expect printing with layers almost as thick as the nozzle diameter and insufficient hotend temperature or excessive speed. I've had problems like this at ...


1

From my experience the most profound difference is in the material. Especially with eSun PLA that I have used over 10 spools I have found huge inconsistencies. In one spool the printing adhesion was fine on other spools it was very very bad. My first advise is try another branded filament, I would recomend Colorfabb, Polymaker and Formfutura for PLAs. ...


1

I make small objects (25mm^2) with 1 to 1.5 mm walls and larger objects (think coffee cups) with about 2.5 - 3 mm walls. I set the line width and number of perimeters to completely fill the thickness. I use this for ABS and PLA. The PLA objects have been electronics enclosures, with internal structures to support the parts. They aren't subjected to ...


1

I would suggest doing some calibration runs - granted this'll use up a lot of time and filament. But an infill of even 30 to 40%, plus a reasonably thick set of walls and top/bottom layers, should have almost the same strength as a 100% infill. Look at the girders & beams on road bridges, for example. As Oscar wrote, modelling with FEA tools is ...


1

The primary printer I use is a makerbot, and my gut is saying no. 150G's of loading even in the XY axis seems pretty excessive for a part made on a Makerbot. Also, given that this is a rotational, the weight and balance will need to be held to a pretty high tolerance otherwise you'll end up having an off-balance centrifuge which could damage a pretty ...


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