27

It looks like those clips are thin and need to bend pretty far to let the vial out. Try to make the clips thicker, but with a smaller clip to retain the vial so that it doesn't have to bend as much. This is what I'm thinking, in beautiful MS-PAINT form:


13

3D Matter has published an excellent article on the subject. They find that thicker layers result in a stronger part, with 0.3mm layers giving a part that is around 24% stronger than the same part printed with 0.1mm layers. One small issue with this study is that it did not look at the effects of temperature. Raising the temperature generally results in ...


12

As Kezat noted, your part has very low infill, but infill is not what provides most of the part strength anyway. From what I can see of the broken part, it looks like you only have 1 or at most 2 walls, and these are what contribute most to part strength, especially in the orientation you're working in. You should probably increase the number of walls to the ...


11

I agree with the previous assessments -- printing vertically for that part of the clip will definitely alleviate the layer adhesion being your weak point. You might also consider splitting that clip as a separate modular piece (which will clip/socket/bolt into the stand). Depending on implementation, this would give you the ability to Print that part ...


8

Considering that you wish to print the clip in the vertical orientation but without supports, I would suggest that you create a suitable taper of the clip from the bottom. The taper would provide necessary support-free support but may reduce the amount of bottle access one has to remove it from the clips. As such, you could also reduce the amount of the ...


7

Come on. Wider clips will just survive a bit longer. The real cause is the orientation (plane) of printing. Continues filament layer will always be more durable than few layers sticked together. So the question is why not to change printing plane? You can use better design which utilizes support without using "support material"


7

I'm offering a different kind of answer, please do not print your propeller blades. I've seen accidents happen (in my past international model aircraft building and flying hobby) with even the bought injection molded propellers (usually bad handling or aging). Propeller blades can be bought online or at your local model aircraft shop against reasonable ...


6

You need WAY more infill or make it solid. Normal props like this are 100% solid for a reason. To add to that, in my experience with 3D printing the the infill percent is only part of the story for part strength. In many cases adding perimeter loops and not infill is a better solution for part strength. With a solid part I suspect PETG will come out ahead ...


5

I think the reason why the large cylinder is breaking much easier than the smokestack would is because of leverage. If you print the same cylinder at a much smaller scale it might be more difficult to break it. Think of taking a wooden stick, if you try to snap it by holding both hands near the center, it would be difficult but if you push on the very ends, ...


5

For these kind of tests you could rely on the ASTM standards. They define test procedures and test specimen sizes for different types of tests. Or you can derive a specimen yourself based on these standards (e.g. for my bachelor's degree I used an alternative notch impact specimen as I was bound to the amount of available material of the turbine rotor blade ...


4

As alluded to in 0scar's answer, it is important to stick to multiples of your nozzle width for thin shells. If you try to print a 1mm wall with a 0.4mm nozzle, you give the slicer a bit of a challenge in filling the joint between the two outer faces. Maybe it can print a half-width line, by under extruding, maybe not - but a 0.8mm wall is likely to be ...


4

This totally depends on what you think is acceptable for your print, and what the usage of the print is: is it a structural/functional part or just for aesthetic purposes. There is no general rule of thumb for that. Basically this is a design issue. If it has to be stiff and may not flex much you would require to use more walls to give it more rigidity. ...


4

PLA seems to become brittle with age. Micro-fractures develop on the surface, and they will grow if filament is taken off the spool and held straight. This behaviour does not seem to be linked to moisture content. The best course of action is probably to use PLA quickly. Don't give it time to age.


4

All printers are designed with an idea of WYSIWYG for sure. Depending on: printer - type/quality/settings/configuration/assembly precission filament - type/quality/shrinkage user skills - manual/using app proficiency model complexity environment conditions and so on you can get different results. I venture to say users know their printers (after some time ...


4

I have not been able to find a simple model for FDM part strength. FDM parts are pretty complicated as they have a LOT more things that affect their strength than just layer adhesion. Since any "solid" part will have infill, the part can't really be modeled as a laminant. There are so many settings you can play with in the slicer that effects part ...


4

It's difficult to determine if the buckets are fully enclosed, but I suspect that they are. The enclosure into which the inserts are placed will provide some structural support. 3D printed objects have relatively low torsion strength, but a reasonable compression strength, especially with high infill levels. One could consider that the item placed into the ...


4

The Short Just print vertically Reduce the clip size to bring them closer to the centerline Try a vapor treatment or epoxy to increase strength The Long Ultimately, printing the object vertically (so the clips are printed horizontally) would be the strongest solution. Alternatively, you could adjust your model to bring down the size of the clips to ...


4

Expanding on some previous comments which are probably enough to warrant an answer: What Trish said is completely right. Leadscrews are readily available parts and any dimensional errors in the leadscrews will be reflected in the output of your CNC machine unless you have some sort of compensation for them. Moreover, if the material is not highly rigid, the ...


4

A nitro engine rotates much faster than an electric one, 30k rpm vs 10k rpm top. Also, it has much more vibrations (the engine gives torque in sharp pulses, not a continuous power generation). There's a reason if the propellers for electric are not compatible with nitro engines. You will need to step up the game with fiber-infused plastics, and shock ...


3

Printing the model vertically should certainly be considered, as that will alleviate your issue by a whole lot. If altering the design by adding a taper to your model isn't what you are looking for, placing a manual, removable support structure at the outer edge og the overhang could also be an option. This way, you could print the overhang as a bridge, ...


3

This is a good question, which hadn't received enough researchers' attention. People regularly print different objects, some of them with strength requirements and the need for a method of strength estimation is high. Good experimental way to estimate the change would be to find a COTS cast plastic object, be it ABS or PLA or whatever, buy 3-5 pieces, then ...


3

It's hard to tell without actually testing the part. There are many ways you can 3D print a part, even on the same machine, that can yield different results. Here are some tips to help uphold strength requirements: Identify where your stresses are and avoid allowing the natural "grain" of the print (i.e. each layer) to coincide with the stresses of the ...


3

If your real question is what would be the strongest then I say - the solid would be the strongest - no doubt. But if the question is: what be the strongest in comparison to weight or what is the strongest in comparison to the cost (amount of material) then these are good questions! You can of course find many tutorials and comparisons on the net and ...


3

Really the only thing that would matter for this project is the amount of torque the motor has available and subsequently how heavy your setup is that is connected to the motor. A part that size may just be too heavy for a CD-ROM motor if you intend on adding more parts. However, to answer your question, ABS should be able to endure the stress. I recommend ...


3

A book you would benefit from reading is "Functional Design for 3D Printing...Designing 3D Printed things for everyday use - 2nd Edition" by Clifford Smyth. It deals with FDM printing only. It deals with considerations of orientation of the parts being printed to address required strength in the 3 directions (x, y, z), tolerances, and designing parts in ...


3

No matter what you do, the adhesion between layers will never be as strong as the adhesion in the direction of layer application. It's analogous to a wooden baseball bat (for those old enough to remember them :-) ). If you apply force perpendicular to the "grain," i.e. growth layers, it's strong. If you apply force along the grain, it'll snap pretty ...


3

It is my understanding that you are looking to print the insert not the gimble bucket. The gimble bucket portion would be difficult and have high risk. Fdm 3d printing looks like it would be a good solution for the inserts. 3D prints have a high strength-to-weight ratio especially in compression and will easily hold their weight and 150g. If the insert is ...


3

When water gets absorbed into the filament, it causes some of the long chain polymers to break. This is a permanent reaction that cannot be fixed by baking the filament, which typically results in the embrittlement of the material. This is true for both the filament and the printed part.


3

Is it possible? Yes. Is it advisable? No Lead screws need to be smooth and have little to no stretch and there can be a lot of tension on them. However, 3D prints are quite rough by the way they are made and super weak on tension forces - and not have a good compression withstanding either. a 3D printed leadscrew is therefore not adviseable, especially since ...


2

Strictly speaking, it is difficult to do calculations on these materials, but not impossible (I've heard about a few commercial analysis tools that do that). The FDM process (Fused Deposition Modeling) creates a product based of fused slices of material causing an anisotropic material (this means that the properties of the material are different in different ...


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