12 votes
Accepted

Trouble printing small thin pole

Basically, you print too hot (and fast) without enough cooling. The deformed small pin in your image is a perfect example of depositing new layers onto too hot (not cooled down enough) prior layers. ...
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  • 30.6k
10 votes
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Why does my PLA filament form a spiral shape and clog my extruder?

The shape you get is quite easy to explain. It's the shape of the lowest energy possible in your situation. Simple but it doesn't explain the issue... or does it? It does. The filament cannot be put ...
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  • 3,438
10 votes
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Tips for not burning out my Arduino Mega or catching something on fire when wiring a Prusa i3?

Polarity matters, sometimes. Be especially mindful of the wires from your power supply to the board, as getting those the wrong way around will definitely cause damage. Heated beds and extruders are ...
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10 votes
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How do I wire the z-axis motors in parallel on the Prusa i3?

In the diagram, they do show the wires connecting together, which is right. You can accomplish that just about any way you like, so long as you pair up the wires correctly from one motor to the other. ...
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  • 3,181
10 votes

Extruder is running backwards?

You can either flip the connector for the motor around (i.e. plug it in backwards) or (if you are using Marlin firmware) look for the following line in configuration.h: (using the Arduino editor open ...
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9 votes

How can I avoid that a small bit of filament sticks out of the nozzle during heating?

I normally print a skirt. This acts as a quality check for: flow rate; bed adhesion; bed level; and proper zero position in the Z.
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  • 2,282
8 votes

How do I wire the z-axis motors in parallel on the Prusa i3?

For some unknown reason, everywhere everybody is saying that Z stepper motors need to be connected in parallel... And this was always the only obvious way, until recently some people started to ...
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8 votes
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How does the home position work on a Prusa i3 RepRap Printer?

It works like you describe, but it does not move all axes at the same time. It first moves the X-axis, subtracting steps while the X endstop is not pressed. When the X-axis is is homed (the X-endstop ...
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7 votes

Using dollar-store picture glass for print bed on top of original heated aluminum bed?

Picture frame glass (generally float glass) will work well enough, but count on it eventually cracking/getting chipped. It's always very flat (due to the way the production process works). Taking it ...
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7 votes
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Prusa i3 hotend not getting to the temperature that I want (180 to 230 celsius)

Usually, this kind of problem is due to an issue with the control loop of the temperature. You can try to do PID Tuning by running the command M303 E0 S200 C8. This ...
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7 votes
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How can I avoid that a small bit of filament sticks out of the nozzle during heating?

On my Kossel Mini I programmed it to go to the edge of the bed and purge a small amount of filament which creates a dot. I purge enough to get the dot to stick to the bed and then go on with printing,...
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  • 2,090
7 votes

Printer fails to print a cube

There are multiple issues that cause this result. First, your nozzle is to far from the bed. This can be seen by the curly deposited filament on the build plate (I guess that is the brim or the skirt)...
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7 votes
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Add a laser module to Reprap Guru Prusa i3

By connecting to the D9 output header (see RAMPS 1.4 shield schematic below) you only have 2 wires that represent a scheduled load and ground. You actually need to connect the positive (red) lead to ...
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7 votes
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Is there a way to print with ABS without enclosure?

There is no requirement for an enclosure when printing ABS. Like many things in FDM, there are improvements to be made, but there is a scale of what is possible. A heated bed is much more necessary (...
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7 votes
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What type of plug is this?

As 0scar noted, this looks suspiciously like a JST connector, but the left one is not a JST RCY connector and it is neither one of the common JST PH nor JST XH, JST manufacturer pages show. In fact, ...
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  • 19.4k
6 votes
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Alignment of dual Z-axis steppers

All the Prusa-based designs I've seen have only one end stop. While you are correct that it's theoretically possible for the two Z-drives to get out of sync, it's very unlikely in practice (barring ...
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6 votes

Z-axis steppers and bed alignment problems

I assume you did everything according to the instructions but here is a checklist of what could be possibly wrong: Friction - check if you can rotate/move parts without lot of resistance Screws - ...
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  • 3,438
6 votes
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3d prints come up with ribbing on one side

Hmmmm In my experience when a printer has that bad of wobble it is still the Z axis. Your rods might be good, but are the two Z axis the exact correct distance and equal distance on the printer frame? ...
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  • 3,003
6 votes
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Prusa i3 - First layer does not stick and looks jagged

Your nozzle is too far from the build plate. You should make some changes to bring the nozzle closer to the build plate for the first layer. There are a number of possibilities for doing this: Adjust ...
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6 votes
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How can I stop the flare out of the bottom layers?

The picture is not very clear so this can be related to either: Overextrusion at the bottom layer (slicer setting) or an incorrect bed leveling (bed to nozzle distance too small), or this could be ...
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6 votes
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How can you calibrate extrusion multiplier value in Slic3r WITHOUT changing printer settings in memory?

Divide the amount overextruded by the desired amount. If you wanted 100mm but got 101mm, that's 1mm extra, or 1% over. Use an extrusion multiplier of 0.99 (1% under) to compensate - AND THEN DO ...
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  • 2,282
6 votes

Getting worse quality prints on 0.05 mm than on 0.10 mm layer height on Prusa i3 MK3

When printing at small layer heights (high resolution), you probably need to do some test prints first to see if your normal settings work for the lower layer height. You are most probably ...
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  • 30.6k
6 votes

Trouble printing small thin pole

The thin core gathers too much heat in the printing process. If you need to print slender objects, either: Print several. This is the most simple solution and best for beginners. Increase cooling. A ...
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  • 19.4k
6 votes

Trouble printing small thin pole

The other answers have addressed the heat problem. The other risk is that a rod printed vertically like this is prone to snap, because the weakest axis is between layers. I often rotate pieces like ...
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6 votes

Advice for 3D modeling peg for sprinkler dripper

I examined and sliced your STL file, and the profile of your threads looks very strange. It's definitely possible to do very strong, perfectly-fitting threads down to small sizes (at least down to M4 ...
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6 votes

How to print a cylinder with hundreds of small holes?

That's a hell of a print! You are printing a model that has a highly complex structure there, with about 650ish holes, assuming there is space for about 2 perimeters between each hole. Taking my ...
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5 votes
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Teflon tubing in nozzle throat coming out?

It looks like you got too tight nozzle, too cold hotend or extruding speed is too high (all could be in the same time of course). As filament goes into the teflon tube (coldend) and then into hotend ...
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  • 3,438
5 votes
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What kind of silicone glue should I use to attach my thermsistors?

The main requirement here is temperature resistance. A 3D printer extruder is very, very hot, and will easily exceed the ratings of many typical silicone glues in normal service or during a runaway ...
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  • 6,446
5 votes
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Z axis top brackets, of P3Steel, differ between v1.x/2.x and v4

I've just seen this right now, I'm Alvaro Rey, the designer of the p3steel v4 mod. The change was made, because with previous versions with the extruder homed, if you go up in the Z axis, the extruder ...
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5 votes
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Why are my prints so defective?

I've not done much miniatures printing, but I have the same printer and I happen to have the exact same filament loaded. Also, I've been doing a lot of tuning lately, including this z-brace mod which ...
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