10

In the diagram, they do show the wires connecting together, which is right. You can accomplish that just about any way you like, so long as you pair up the wires correctly from one motor to the other. I'm assuming both "Z" motors are the same type and have the same color-coding for their wires. If not, you'll need to figure out the correspondences first (...


10

Polarity matters, sometimes. Be especially mindful of the wires from your power supply to the board, as getting those the wrong way around will definitely cause damage. Heated beds and extruders are not polarity sensitive, and can go in either way. Fans are polarized, but will probably survive if you get them backwards - they just won't run. Stepper motors ...


10

"Analog pin" is misleading nomenclature. Every pin is a digtal pin, but some digital pins happen to also be connected to the analog-to-digital converter and can thus also handle measuring analog signals. Every analog pin can also serve as a perfectly good digital pin. The reverse is not true; if something requires an analog pin you cannot use a digital pin. ...


8

No, do not use this fuse. The current rating is too high to be reasonable for your printer. It will "work" in the sense that your printer will get power, but it won't provide anywhere near as much protection as a lower-rated fuse. 10A is a lot of current for mains voltage. Depending on what else you have plugged in, there is a fair chance your home's 15A ...


7

For some unknown reason, everywhere everybody is saying that Z stepper motors need to be connected in parallel... And this was always the only obvious way, until recently some people started to connect these motors in series. And I personally started to believe the right way is to connect them in series. All stepstick drivers are some kind of current ...


7

To measure amps (current), the meter has to be wired in series with the item to be measured (for this reason, ammeters are designed to have very low resistance). This has the down-side that you have to disconnect the component to put the meter in line with it. That makes it hard to do the "check a component at a time" method you mentioned. An ammeter ...


7

If by components you mean motors, fans, or heated bed, then yes. This is even suggested in the Final Setup instructions on the RAMPS wiki. If you think you may have mistakes (in your setup) you can install only one stepper driver during initial testing and risk only one stepper driver. There are also printers using RAMPS with no heated bed and other ...


7

By connecting to the D9 output header (see RAMPS 1.4 shield schematic below) you only have 2 wires that represent a scheduled load and ground. You actually need to connect the positive (red) lead to the power supply 12 V and the negative (black) lead to the ground. The third wire (usually a different color) needs to be connected to the actual D9 in your ...


6

An 8bit Atmega can provide bare-bones delta performance with Marlin (eg 40mm/s print speed) or pretty good performance with Repetier (due to more optimized algorithms). For a small and simple delta like a bare-bones Mini Kossel, 8bit may be fine. If you want to do high-speed printing or use any of the fancier features, you should go with 32bit. The big ...


6

Thank you all for your suggestions and help. It appears that I was just running the printer too fast and slowing it down to about 10% of my original speed "fixed" my problem. I don't know where i got the rediculous speed from, but 1200 mm/min is WAY too fast. More like 150 to maybe 200 mm/min is what it should have been. Oh well.. comes under the heading "...


6

Changing the PSU with one with a higher amperage will not make the bed heat up any faster unless the PSU is underrated for the amperage required and the voltage is dropping as a result of the load. This can be checked by measuring the output voltage with a multimeter (when the PSU is loaded e.g. by a heating heat bed). In this case, the PSU has a marginal ...


6

The heated bed port on your board has a 11A fuse. It will not work for a heated bed requiring 16A of current, no matter how good the MOSFETs might be. Note that the terminal block might also not be rated for that much current. You'd have to check, because often it is not the MOSFET itself that catches fire but the wiring or terminal blocks. Also, keep in ...


6

The second motor is hot. And the third is very hot. I can not even touch it. This is to some degree, completely normal and expected. From the datasheet for a typical NEMA 17 stepper, the rated temperature rise is 80 °C above ambient and the maximum operating temperature is 130 °C (implying an ambient temperature of 50 °C). It is normal that stepper motors (...


5

A Delta printer requires constant complex calculations to produce straight lines while printing. The firmware, therefore, spends most of its time figuring out the step and timing sequence, and only the little remaining time between interrupts and these calculations is given to the user interface. Marlin doesn't document any configuration parameters that ...


5

I looked at the current Marlin code and the P24 command should work as you expect it unless the pin you are trying to use in listed as the "SENSITIVE_PINS" list: #define SENSITIVE_PINS { 0, 1, \ X_STEP_PIN, X_DIR_PIN, X_ENABLE_PIN, X_MIN_PIN, X_MAX_PIN, \ Y_STEP_PIN, Y_DIR_PIN, Y_ENABLE_PIN, Y_MIN_PIN, Y_MAX_PIN, \ Z_STEP_PIN, Z_DIR_PIN, Z_ENABLE_PIN, ...


5

I believe G30 is a carry-over from CNC (G-code originated for CNC not printers) I believe it is for going to a secondary reference (home) position and includes an optional by-way-of address that can be included in the command. Looking at Marlin 1.1.0-1 (latest release), it seems to do what you said: Move to the requested position (if selected in command, ...


5

After trying many different things, I found out that the solution is really simple and requires only a few lines of code. I'll answer my own question in the hope that this will help someone. First, I defined a few constants. To keep my own stuff as separate as possible, I made a new file that I called myconfig.h: #define MY_BED_TEMP_THRESHOLD 50 #define ...


5

The biggest issue with RAMPS 1.4 (and 1.5) is the power connector is prone to melting/burning, this appears to be fixed on 1.6 with the use of screw terminal blocks. I've used RAMPS 1.4 with both 12v and 24v power supplies and never have had any issues with the fuses or the power connector but mine have only come from Ultimachine or RepRapDiscount. A RAMPS ...


5

There are very many combinations that will work. A bipolar stepper has 2 coils. Swapping the coils, or reversing the polarity of a coil, will simply cause the stepper to rotate in the opposite direction. On RAMPS, one coil should connect to 1A and 1B, whereas the other coil should connect to 2A and 2B. On the stepper, one coil is A+ and A-, the other coil ...


4

try uncommenting the following lines to enable endstop detection on all pins for troubleshooting. //#define USE_XMAX_PLUG false //#define USE_YMAX_PLUG false //#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG false This way the M119 will show any changes. The only thing I can think of is that either the switch is plugged into the wrong pin on the ramps board (Max instead of Min) or ...


4

There's no reason to comment anything out. It will work just fine without any modification, even if you're just testing a single motor. That said, I don't see the value of this "test firmware" over just installing Marlin.


4

The key question is not really if there is such software, but rather if such software is possible, or if it would work very well. While a printer is more than just stepper motors, those are one of the trickiest parts, so it makes sense to look primarily at that. Back in the old days of personal computing, it was not uncommon to generate stepper motor ...


4

No, there exists no software like that. You can't communicate with a RAMPs board because a RAMPs board has no logic built-in; it's just a dumb breakout board that connects the Arduino Mega to your printer's components (such as stepper drivers, MOSFETs for controlling heaters, endstops,...). If you wanted to connect a RAMPs board "directly" to your computer, ...


4

Thanks to the comments, I was able to narrow down the specific issues in the firmware. The firmware version was really out of date, so I recommend finding the latest stable version. Therefore, I found the latest stable version of Marlin, downloaded it, and created my own edited version. I went line by line in configuration.h and configuration_adv.h, with ...


4

Take a look at Ryan's answer to my question. I believe the MightBoard is based on the Mega 2560, so it is possible that some of the other components could have been damaged. If you look at the comments below Ryan's answer, we discussed the possibility of the processor itself being damaged. I had attempted this fix on two different MightBoards and they both ...


4

I'd say polarity and voltage are the biggest things -- about all you can do is double- and triple-check everything; then check again.... Be very careful about where you feed in 12V power (mainly for heaters and fans), vs. 5v (for the Arduino). In many cases I found it unclear which way +/- went going out from the board (the inputs on my boards were at ...


4

Yes, you can. By leaving components unplugged you would simply have some pins powered that are not in use. But even with all your components plugged in, you would still have some unused, powered pins on your board, so I wouldn't think too hard about that. In some cases it might be needed to mount e.i. fans to cool your electronics while running, but for ...


4

It sounds a bit like you are having (additional) grounding issues1. Are your MacBook and the RAMPS using the same ground, i.e. are they using the same mains circuit? If you are using the same power strip, then the next thing to check would be that the PSU on the printer correctly grounded (at the bottom of the unit). From David Crocker's superlative blog, ...


4

Alright, I have figured everything out with the help of #reprap IRC community. Issue #1 - Z axis not moving during zero. Just as tjb1 suggested the issue was that it thought it was hitting the endstop, I needed to invert the logic of the endstop within the configuration.h const bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; Issue #2 - No Heated bed controls. The ...


4

This can come from several sources: Hardware The thermistor or its connections might be damaged, and the fault is only observable when the hotend is hot or moved to a certain area. Start by checking the wiring! You may be able to repair a bad connection easily, but depending what was broken, you may need to replace something. In some cases squishing a ...


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