6

In theory, you can; but, you may need those pins to attach an external programmer to bring your system back to life when playing around with the code. Here are a couple of articles that could help if you still want to pursue that path: Can SPI programmer interfere with other components on same pins? Can I reuse ISP pins for other tasks?(Target: Atmega164p) ...


4

As a guess, you are using the wrong command. If set for n x n grid, you get 3 point measurement with G29, but that is not auto leveling, it is just setting Z height - based on average height at 3 points. What you need is G32 S2 with S2 to store result in EEPROM (and therefore you should have EEPROM enabled with auto leveling. It is also used to store ...


4

Your question may be useful to people interested in 3d printing (the purpose of this SE Site) so, even though you're not asking a 3d printing question per se, I think this answer will be helpful... GRBL: GRBL is a well known and mature g-code interpreter that will run on an Arduino Uno and is free and open source. Check it out here. I hope this helps! :-...


4

From an electrical standpoint, a two-phase stepper motors (what most 3D printers use) works the same backwards and forwards, the phase just reverses. If you are stalling on only one direction, I would look to see if you have a mechanical bind in that direction. Generally a wiring issue will cause the motor to either not run at all or to run in the wrong ...


4

Do anyone have any ideas? What this can be? How can I fix this? At least judging from the pictures, that does seem like under-extrusion. Some ideas for further investigating the issue. The problem may be due to the gcode being wrong. In this case, your printer is merely executing correctly... the wrong commands. To check if this is the case: The ...


4

You see this for a few reason. First you are going too fast and you are getting belt shift from the whip lash. You can mitigate that by going slower and adjusting your Jerk settings to lower. Though usually this is not a consistent wall. Usually you see this. That said it is likely you have not adjusted the current to your stepper motors correctly. I don't ...


4

Current versions of Arduino IDE Use the menu option in the Arduino IDE: Sketch ► Export Compiled Binary See post #6 from the thread How to get hex file from arduino files ?: Well, since it was bumped it's worth mentioning there is a new way to do this added in Arduino IDE 1.6.5: Sketch > Export Compiled Binary If you are doing this with an ...


3

No. Marlin only supports ASCII G-code, and does not (currently) support binary format. According to the List of Firmware, Repetier is the only firmware that supports binary G-code. Moreover, verifying with Marlin's source code, shows that the G-code parser can only handle traditional G-code.


3

As comments suggest, a raft is not all that popular. Consider using a brim/skirt instead. I've had excellent luck with a 4-mm skirt, printing onto blue painter's tape. (Unless you consider it bad luck when I have a devil of a time getting some parts to release :-) ). Skirts are trivial to cut free from the object. In a similar vein, if you run into ...


3

i bet your towers are not standing straight (vertical) or your bed is not clearly horizontal i've recreated your picture with some assumptions (for example that your SW calculates properly and your steppers and motors act well) take a look here if you deliver your printer dimensions tower height (from the base) tower distance from the center bed ...


3

You, obviously, do actually have a Z-probe, but in case another user does not, or you decide not to use yours, I will cover both cases (with and without a Z-probe). Z-probe not present If not, then in configuration.h set the FEATURE_Z_PROBE to false, like this: #define FEATURE_Z_PROBE false or #define FEATURE_Z_PROBE 0. Then you also need to set #...


3

It is completely normal for the surface of the bed to be cooler than the indicated temperature. The thermistor goes on the underside of the bed, near the heating traces. The top of the bed (which is further away from the heating traces) will naturally be cooler. It would be possible, though a lot of work, to build a custom thermistor table that more ...


3

Skew distortion in deltas means there is something physically wrong with your printer build, such as the towers not being evenly spaced or being tilted. The first thing you should do is confirm the mechanical build -- measure the distance between towers, angles between towers, parallelism of all three towers, and perpendicularity of all three towers to the ...


3

Delta bed leveling has been dodgy in Repetier for a long time. There are a number of fixes occurring in the dev branch right now (June 2016) if you look at Github. So it's getting better, but I wouldn't call it mature yet. (Delta auto-calibration is one of the only big shortcomings of Repetier, in my opinion.) The problem with approaches like bed plane ...


3

Is it possible that in updating Repetier you inadvertently installed it for a single user rather than for everyone? If so, that might account for its stopping when the user is changed.


3

Have you tried plugging in the plugging the Z and/or Y end stops into the X position? This could tell you if it's actually the end stops or the board. EDIT: Also, if the Z and/or Y end stops seem to work just fine in the X position, ensure you have the X position filled and try the other end stops in the Z & Y positions. It may be a case where having ...


3

When applying a voltage directly to the heater element, it should heat up very fast. You could measure the resistance of the heater element. A 12 V heater element of 40 Watt should have a resistance of about 3.6 Ω; you could test that with a multitester. If the resistance is a lot higher, the heater cartridge could be a 24 V heater ...


3

Your firmware configuration may vary (probably worth checking what you have set), but from The Ender 3 configuration is set to 115200 baud rate #12174, the standard baud rate seems to be 115200. I think the default Ender 3 configuration is aligned to the Ender3 official confg, which has 115200 so... Ah, but this is Marlin, and you're using Repetier. Hmmm,...


2

There are two things which shouldn't be mixed. Position of the object relative to its own coordinate system. In general object doesn't have specific position stored inside. Which is obvious as structure of the object should store construction of an object but not its position. So position is relation-to-something so to speak and because object itself doesn'...


2

In order to try a short answer even though you already found a change to Cura helped the issue. With that additional info we can conclude that your printer per se is working fine. To me, if the plastic is curling up to a ball, it seems that you are either having a wrong temperature set wrongly calculated e-steps, volume calculation (filament diameter) or ...


2

Each of the settings have informative comments written just before the setting's #define, so reading those can point you in the right direction - if the required value doesn't jump out at you from your EEPROM settings. Taking an educated guess (and I could be wrong), and after looking at the comments, I would imagine that: General and Dimensions: ...


2

The firmware is not really locked by the OEM1, you just need to upload (or, as you say burn) a new version. This is not unusual2. Repetier is just like any other firmware that uses Arduino boards. While it may seem intimidating at first, it really is quite easy to regularly upload new firmware to the Arduino Mega 2560 board3. If you are not familiar with ...


2

Well, you have two main issues: 1.- Your calculation for stepping is a little wrong, for example your firmware indicates 2315.84 when you need 2321.70 (REMEMBER this is an example and is not accurate), So you will see a diference about 2.0mm along your printing. If your printing is bigger more diference you will get. 2.- Misalignment, your printer is not ...


2

I have been able to get rafts that peel off by editing the g-code after the raft has finished and adding an M104 set temperature command telling my printer to cool the nozzle down to about 40 degrees and then another M104 command to tell the nozzle to heat back up again. This gives the raft enough time to cool and then the raft doesn't weld to the rest of ...


2

If you go through the Repetier-Firmware configuration tool for version 1.0.2 you can select the E1 stepper for the E0 extruder (or whatever stepper you want to use for it) in the tools tab sheet. I'm not familiar with Repetier, but if that does not work you would have to switch pin numbers. If you already have a Configuration.h, you can use that one (by ...


2

Thanks to the repetier team on git hub, we found that the problem came from a permission issue on /dev/ttyUSB0, as the user repetierserver couldn't access it. Other people reported that these commands solves the problem: sudo adduser repetierserver dialout sudo adduser repetierserver tty but in my case it seems I need to run : sudo chmod 777 /dev/ttyUSB0 in ...


2

I have had the same Issue with my Maker select prusa printer, the way I found that best combats this is to attach the printer to a UPS and avoid attaching any High draw devices from the same circuit. Every Time i'd switch something on, My TV, my lights, etc. The same would happen. Hope this helps!


2

A workaround would be to post-process your gcode files manually removing all M140 and M190 instructions (the one setting heated bed temperatures). You can do that manually by opening your GCODE file in a text editor and searching for M140 and M190, but I recently had the same problem with Slic3r (Prusa edition) and I wrote a one-liner that does that ...


2

This doesn't look like a configuration error. It seems very likely this is a partial hotend jam. This happens sometimes because of stale filament but most often by not cooling down the heat sink (the part just over the heat break) enough which generates heat-creep, e.g heat creeps up through the filament, which eventually melts too early, creating a blob. ...


2

The edited question appears to mention that the actual extruders of the print head need to home / limit themselves. The answer is that this is not required. When operating direct or Bowden driven extruder setups, you know (or you can measure or find out experimentally) the distance that the filament has to travel from extruder entry to hot end (e.g. to load ...


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