16

Yes, you can print most of the parts (electronics, linear guide rails, ball bearings and nuts and bolts, etc cannot be printed). Actually this was exactly the purpose of RepRap.org: RepRap is humanity's first general-purpose self-replicating manufacturing machine. and: Since many parts of RepRap are made from plastic and RepRap prints those parts, ...


13

This is highly dependent upon the type and quality of filament you use. Exotic materials such as wood, metalic, or otherwise infused plastics can potentially wear out the inside of the nozzle and at the very least leave deposits of composite material in the nozzle. This can lead to more frequent or irreversible clogs. You may also notice your prints ...


12

The easiest way is as you currently do: model the pieces by hand, using (digital) calipers to measure them. Scanning technology isn't very good, and the models are not of printable quality. Usually, fixing a scan is more work than modeling an item from scratch.


8

The latest version of Ultimaker Cura can do that (version 3.6). I have built models made of different material in the same model. How to do this is: Select your CUBE and select the icon "Per Model Setting" in left side menu. choice "Normal model", select the following settings: Top/bottom thickness, wall thickness and infill percentage Very Important: all ...


8

This is a timing belt pulley. Specifically, is a GT2 timing pulley, 2 mm pitch (between teeth), 6 mm wide. The drive diameter is measured by the number of teeth (16 in this case) , the shaft diameter (bore) is measured in mm. The 'GT2' part refers to the tooth profile, some other examples are shown half way down this page.


7

Can a 3D printer make a 3D printer? Not without a bunch of other parts Could you use a 3D printer to make 3D printers parts? To some extent. What is the most of a 3D printer that can be built this way Basically you you can't print the precision mechanical guides, you can't print the electronics, you can't print the parts that need to get hot, you ...


7

Yes, printers can print printer parts. With the right design, all non-metal/non-electronic parts can be printed on an FDM printer, and a laser-sintering based printer (SLS/DMLS) can even produce metal parts, as long as they fit the printbed. The fact, that a printer can create all the fastenings to build a new printer with just the electronics and linger ...


7

Please do not go down this road. First, not all lasers are equally absorbed by the material and the energy converted to heat to vaporize the material. The light not absorbed is reflected right back into your eyes. This is especially dangerous because it doesn't make you go blind instantly, fooling you into thinking there is no harm. You got the other part ...


7

Bearing in mind that the specifications on Amazon's page are sometimes not 100% (even though they are in this case), it is always best to check on the manufacturer's website. From Creality3D's own website, Creality3D.shop, on the Creality3D Ender-3 product page, Creality3D Ender-3 3D Printer Economic Ender DIY KITS, the specifications are given as (emphasis ...


7

As 0scar noted, this looks suspiciously like a JST connector, but the left one is not a JST RCY connector and it is neither one of the common JST PH nor JST XH, JST manufacturer pages show. In fact, it's not a wire-to-wire JST connector. The BQ-store claims it is a 2.5 mm JST connector, but JST has some 10 dozen different types of connectors, some three ...


6

The Ender 3 takes an M6 thread (metric 6 mm diameter). Measurement of stock nozzle shown. Most sellers will list compatible printers Ender 2, Ender 3, Ender 4, CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 Mini, CR-10-S4, CR-10-S5, CR-8, CR-7. Will Also Fit Any Other MK10 Heater Blocks. I recently bought some titanium alloy nozzles as the brass one got closed over after ...


5

Strapping a laser to a cheap robot made with flammable plastic parts and no enclosure is stupid in the extreme. Don't do it. Seriously, just don't. RepRaps are not suitable for laser conversions. You have to worry about reflected light damaging your eyes, and for the blue diode lasers currently growing in popularity, causing skin melanomas. You have to ...


5

In my experience, we deal with 3M™ Adhesive Transfer Tape 468MP; high-temperature glue residue. To remove the leftover glue from my Aluminium build plate I found that it works best if I apply paint thinner. I ran out of acetone for one refurbishment so I tried thinner and white (cleaning) spirit; the latter option did not work well. However, thinner worked ...


5

To the best of my knowledge, it's just called a lead screw nut or lead nut. The flange and holes for attaching it to a surface are inherent in its role in letting the lead screw move something.


5

your print surface is destroyed So, you managed to rip off your print surface in the center. Happened to me too. the corners of my scraper were too sharp, cutting the surface. Another time I did pierce the surface with my nozzle. Damage happens. Replacement surfaces for the Ender3 start at about 5 bucks a piece. So get yourself some spares. Clean your bed ...


4

You need a thermocouple, not a thermistor. Also, as you say the Ultimaker Original+, and the Ultimaker 2, (which both use version 2.x.x boards) use a PT1001. According to this post, on E3D Thermocouple mount on UMO+, a k-type thermocouple will do: I am changing over to E3D V6 on my UMO, and have elected to used the k-type thermocouples sold by e3d with the ...


4

Cleaning up the aluminium build platform was rather easy in a three step process as I figured out: Preparation Get the old bed-surface off and any film layers that stick to the original glue. Don't bother to try to scrape off the glue, it is wasted time. Solvent To remove the sticker's residue, I first tried heat and 70% isopropyl alcohol (aka ...


4

This is an example of a right handed extruder setup: And this is an example of a left handed extruder setup: I believe that you can can choose whatever one you favor. With the right handed setup, you will be pushing down the red part with your right hand when inserting filament. With the left handed setup, you will be doing the same thing but then with ...


4

The short answer to identify what extruder type you have is the rotation of the extruder gear. CCW rotation to extrude = right-handed extruder Detailed explanation is below. In addition to the other answers, the right-handed designation comes from math and pysics convention that has become a well known mnemonic in engineering practice: or in its physics ...


4

This answer already describes the name of the "golden" component you are after, this answer expands upon that answer to note that there are various nuts with different thread sizes that look virtually the same, it would be a pity to order the incorrect one. Note that this trapezoidal lead screw nut is made from brass (e.i. in your image, but these nuts are ...


3

when thinking about righ-handed extruder or left-handed extruder it's good to know that there is no magic or any other science rule behind this naming convention. it's just an arbitrary explanation which can be unfortunately misleading. in fact there is visual explanation of this left / right handed name and it doesn't have anything to any "the right handed ...


3

It usually doesn't matter whether you get a right-handed or left-handed one. The reason the two different variations exist is because some people use a dual extruder setup. If you have two extruders it is convenient to have them be mirror images of each other (as this makes them easier to install in use with the filament release lever pointing out to the ...


3

There is no such thing as a single MK10 hotend design. The Chinese aftermarket has mingled the designations. If it has a MK10 like Makerbot hotend, then the nozzles you are looking for are M7 threads. It appears (see this answer) that your hotend is a cloned MK10 and has different dimensions, you have the M6 version. Quote from link above: (this is about ...


3

There is scanning technology: either hardware or software (such software typically works from multiple 2D photographs). It has limitations, but is an active research area, and getting better all the time. "Autodesk 123D Catch" and "3-Sweep" are a couple examples. One tradeoff between automatic and manual is the complexity of the shape you need to duplicate. ...


3

The most recent versions of Cura cannot do that for you. This is a removed feature (or better said: not ported from the old application to the new application), so installing an older version of Cura may work for you. Alternatively there are many more pieces of (free) software that can do that for you. E.g. MeshMixer or the Slic3r application can do that ...


3

Once the non stick coating wears off you'll notice degraded print quality over time and a more agressive sound from the print breaking free when switching layers as the print uses more and more force to break free from the tray with each layer when the non stick coating degrades. The good thing is this will not happen at once so you will start to notice ...


3

ABS would be fine, as a material, for the application. The problem, given the scale, would be the printing device used. I would suggest that you have the piece cut to spec for you using a polycarbonate. If you have access to a workshop you could do so yourself if you set up proper fencing using a larger sized bandsaw(with a very fine toothed blade), had ...


2

It is a huge part that would not fit in most 3D printers, do you have access to a 3D printer this big? Even if it does fit it will take a long time to print. Considering it's a simple flat shape, maybe laser cut / CNC acrylic or wood would be better, as you will have a stronger part, and most likely faster and cheaper.


2

The Ender 3 and the CR-10 printers use the same board which runs on both 12V and 24V. I have one of each and have to be careful swapping parts between the two.


2

I don't know if this helps but download blender 3d, install expoert your models as stl import as stl file enter into edit mode with tab key and delete everything else export as stl (maybe would have to set the scale to 100)


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