16

Yes, you can print most of the parts (electronics, linear guide rails, ball bearings and nuts and bolts, etc cannot be printed). Actually this was exactly the purpose of RepRap.org: RepRap is humanity's first general-purpose self-replicating manufacturing machine. and: Since many parts of RepRap are made from plastic and RepRap prints those parts, ...


15

The files used to print these objects are digital, and do not degrade in any way after each printing. There are no side effects or degradation that occurs over time due simply to printing them multiple times. This is the RepRap philosophy, and the machines are actually designed with enough tolerance for printing and building mistakes that even if the print ...


7

Can a 3D printer make a 3D printer? Not without a bunch of other parts Could you use a 3D printer to make 3D printers parts? To some extent. What is the most of a 3D printer that can be built this way Basically you you can't print the precision mechanical guides, you can't print the electronics, you can't print the parts that need to get hot, you ...


7

Yes, printers can print printer parts. With the right design, all non-metal/non-electronic parts can be printed on an FDM printer, and a laser-sintering based printer (SLS/DMLS) can even produce metal parts, as long as they fit the printbed. The fact, that a printer can create all the fastenings to build a new printer with just the electronics and linger ...


6

The reprap printers have often been compared to plants, providing fruits to you and the possibility to reproduce themselves. This analogy holds in both good and bad ways. Any life form can reproduce itself only so often without artefacts (mutations) being introduced. It takes a bit of skill to build, configure and run a reprap printer. While the parts can ...


4

3D printers obviously do not print themselves. 3D printers are sometimes used to make parts for other 3D printers, and this is what is meant by "self-replicating" 3D printers (which is a bit of a misnomer, considering that all designs require a substantial amount of non-printed "vitamin" parts). A printer that is able to produce many of its own parts is the ...


4

As long as you maintain each printer and keep a proper calibration, go for it, this is what they were designed to do, I've even made replacement parts for myself. Unfortunately the RepRap project just shut down on 1/15/16 due to their lack of sales. I have a reprap that came from a reprap, and has made another reprap. Just make sure that when printing out ...


3

The all3dp article you linked to is very comprehensive and shows what are the "approaches" to print removal, rather than just the tools. For the sake of keeping all info accessible here, the article highlight these 6 approaches: Brute force Wedge the joint apart Thermal difference Chemical reaction Mechanical cut Bed warping To that list I would add a ...


2

I would reccomend heating up the base a bit. If your printer doesnt come with such an option, try heat-gun.


2

I am new myself and here is what helps me: 1.) Make sure your z-offset is correct, you want it to just be enough to stick, you do not want the nozzle pushing the filament into the base any harder than it has to. 2.) For pieces that are too short or otherwise shaped so as not to be able to grab and pull off easy, I generally will use a raft as I find the ...


1

You can print some of it but not all, as 3d printers can't print metal or silicon to make the boards and frame.


1

In the end I found using the tape was a great help, getting the level correct is also a big help.


1

Unlike PLA, PETG does not like to be "squidged" down, it likes to be laid down. If you use too small a layer height, there is the danger of the filament sticking to the nozzle, rather than the bed (or filament already laid down). Try using a larger layer height -- between 0.2mm and 0.3mm, if you have a 0.4mm nozzle.


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