8

You can put pretty much any controller in pretty much any printer, with a few noteworthy details you need to keep in mind for a Replicator 1. Makerbots use thermocouples. Most RepRap style 3d printers use thermistors. So you would need to replace the extruder temp sensors, or choose a new controller with thermocouple support. Makerbots use 24v heaters and ...


7

It really doesn't quite have enough power to heat everything at once. Initially bringing the bed up to temp takes a lot of current and so Makerbot's start sequences decrease stepper current and hold off on heating the extruder(s) until the bed is preheated. Once preheated, the bed's power draw decreases to a lower "holding" level and there is available ...


4

What's the part number of the regulator you're putting in? The pin assignments vary from one part to another, but you can probably find them from the part number online. Some parts have the ground pin also connected to a metal part of their case. The green wire from the board should be ground (no promises!) Assuming you've got a voltmeter, you can use it to ...


2

I don't know what was the object like in your plans but it looks like your extruder stopped pushing filament well. I had similar effect when I used extensive retraction with low quality filament. In fact filament was to soft and when it was pressed to hobbed pulley/bolt it became flatened and then stopped flowing. So if your case is similar you could check ...


2

There is an open source MTConnect adapter/agent written in Python for MakerBot Replicator that includes axis position. To my knowledge it was only developed for and tested on a Replicator 2, though. https://github.com/mtconnect/makerbot_agent


2

Depending on your methods, you can easily (evidently) get (or compute) "where the printhead is commanded to be" in more-or-less real time, as evidenced by the "progress display" in Repetier Host software (based off the G-Code it's sending to the printer) - though I have found it advisable to stick with the temperature display while printing as I've had the ...


1

Thanks for everyone's help. So after playing around with the G-Code and trying to set the temperatures manually, I came across a post by a user who said that Cura will automatically include code for the temperatures regardless of your g-code. So I deleted the m140 and m104 lines and now it works great! I am also going to take a second to rant about how ...


1

Look at the Cura error log file for why Cura doesn't like your startup code. The log file is located at $User/AppData/Local/cura/cura.log. The problem may be that one the the parameters included in startup code (the names included in '{}') is no longer available in the newer Cura or the name has changed. Hopefully the error log will lead you to the ...


1

Why not download Flashprint by Flashforge and try using it with your printer? Flashprint by Flashforge creates X3G files, therefore not requiring the conversion from GPX to X3G.


1

Edit: After looking at GPX more I'm not sure what you are doing? Are you trying to slice something in Cura and use GPX to make the X3G file or use the starting g-code from Cura in Makerware? The code you posted above is used in Cura to generate the g-code and it appears you should be giving GPX the g-code file made by Cura. You didn't specify which error ...


1

I don't have a profile that has settings for the dissolvable filament anymore, but this is one I use for thin layers (second extruder at 232C my first extruder isn't working so just ignore that one). You may want to try printing small simple objects with each extruder independently first to confirm that you have good settings, then try both together after ...


1

Not sure if this is the reason, or just A reason, but thermocouples create a pretty small voltage for a given temperature, whereas thermistors have a larger (easier to read) change in resistance. I would expect that a thermocouple would require slightly more sensitive instrumentation to read it than a thermocouple. And seeing as space requirements aren't ...


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