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18

It is hard to tell whether you personally should enclose your printer. However, you asked for the advantages and I will name some of them on which one can base a decision. A 3D printer enclosure helps to keep the temperature of the whole print at controlled levels, if you use a heating element, thermocouple and pid regulator. This is one of the most direct ...


15

The files used to print these objects are digital, and do not degrade in any way after each printing. There are no side effects or degradation that occurs over time due simply to printing them multiple times. This is the RepRap philosophy, and the machines are actually designed with enough tolerance for printing and building mistakes that even if the print ...


14

There are three main options here for Mendel style ZX gantries: One Z screw and motor, which is similar to a cantilevered design but somewhat more stable because of the opposite smooth rod Two Z screws and two motors Two Z screws and one motor, with belt synchronization of the two sides Of all of these, running two screws off one motor is clearly superior ...


10

Polarity matters, sometimes. Be especially mindful of the wires from your power supply to the board, as getting those the wrong way around will definitely cause damage. Heated beds and extruders are not polarity sensitive, and can go in either way. Fans are polarized, but will probably survive if you get them backwards - they just won't run. Stepper motors ...


10

@kamuro provided an excellent answer, so I'll just try to add by playing devil's advocate. Possible things to look out for: Inappropriate enclosure could result in more temperature differences, resulting in higher rates of warping and delamination. For example, if you do not enclose the top of your machine, then the temperature at the beginning of your ...


8

It works like you describe, but it does not move all axes at the same time. It first moves the X-axis, subtracting steps while the X endstop is not pressed. When the X-axis is is homed (the X-endstop is gets pressed) it repeats the procedure for the Y-axis and finally the Z-axis.


7

Please do not go down this road. First, not all lasers are equally absorbed by the material and the energy converted to heat to vaporize the material. The light not absorbed is reflected right back into your eyes. This is especially dangerous because it doesn't make you go blind instantly, fooling you into thinking there is no harm. You got the other part ...


6

Yes, look at http://reprap.org for a project that's been doing what you're asking about for about a decade now.


6

I want to add the following to the already direct and very good answer of @Dani Epstein. It does not answer your question, but hopefully may help many people who are reading the question when choosing between the two materials. Acrylic is less stable and will probably wear off faster than a well-built MDF frame for a 3D printer! I will address the points ...


6

You might be able to use one of the connectors (Deans Ultra, EC3, XT-60/30, Bullet) that are normally used for RC models. They're made for very high currents. The XT60 connectors depicted below are rated for 60A continuous (well above what you'd need for any heated bed); their smaller XT30 cousins are good for 30A but less commonly available. (Photo by Mark ...


6

The reprap printers have often been compared to plants, providing fruits to you and the possibility to reproduce themselves. This analogy holds in both good and bad ways. Any life form can reproduce itself only so often without artefacts (mutations) being introduced. It takes a bit of skill to build, configure and run a reprap printer. While the parts can ...


6

In theory, you can; but, you may need those pins to attach an external programmer to bring your system back to life when playing around with the code. Here are a couple of articles that could help if you still want to pursue that path: Can SPI programmer interfere with other components on same pins? Can I reuse ISP pins for other tasks?(Target: Atmega164p) ...


6

NOTE: This is not from personal experience, but I thought it was worth mentioning: Microsoft You've probably seen this already - I am not a fan at all of M$, but... Microsoft Plus Raspberry Pi Equals Network 3D Printer. Here is another link to the same, Network 3D Printer with Windows 10 IoT Core, but, unfortunately, your printer is apparently not supported. ...


5

Based on this answer, you need the following procedure: Stash your local changes using git stash Pull from remote repository using git pull Merge your stashed configuration file using git stash pop Of course, if there are changes in the configuration.h file on the remote repository and cause conflicts, you will need to resolve them, but it should be ...


5

Looking at the specs for both the GT2 belt and the Synchromesh I'm very hesitant to recommend a Synchromesh over a belt. The first thing that sticks out is that there are both error and cumulative error specifications for the Synchromesh. For a device like a 3D printer, I don't like the idea that of my axes can accumulate up to ±0.16 in. of error over 100 ...


5

Strapping a laser to a cheap robot made with flammable plastic parts and no enclosure is stupid in the extreme. Don't do it. Seriously, just don't. RepRaps are not suitable for laser conversions. You have to worry about reflected light damaging your eyes, and for the blue diode lasers currently growing in popularity, causing skin melanomas. You have to ...


5

Generally speaking, MDF will weather OK. In areas of high humidity you might experience warpage, but you can mitigate that by sealing the surface with paint or varnish. However you will probably find that of the two materials, acrylic will be more stable over a few years.


4

It looks like the hotend may not be all the way in, are you sure it's not stuck? If it's stuck and you can get it in further, those holes should go directly through the smaller ring on top of the J-Head. You just need to run a machine screw into each hole to secure the hotend. The screw will need to at least be flush with the other side to work correctly.


4

I'd say polarity and voltage are the biggest things -- about all you can do is double- and triple-check everything; then check again.... Be very careful about where you feed in 12V power (mainly for heaters and fans), vs. 5v (for the Arduino). In many cases I found it unclear which way +/- went going out from the board (the inputs on my boards were at ...


4

As long as you maintain each printer and keep a proper calibration, go for it, this is what they were designed to do, I've even made replacement parts for myself. Unfortunately the RepRap project just shut down on 1/15/16 due to their lack of sales. I have a reprap that came from a reprap, and has made another reprap. Just make sure that when printing out ...


4

Take a look at Ryan's answer to my question. I believe the MightBoard is based on the Mega 2560, so it is possible that some of the other components could have been damaged. If you look at the comments below Ryan's answer, we discussed the possibility of the processor itself being damaged. I had attempted this fix on two different MightBoards and they both ...


4

The algorithm is based on the "Vector rotation by transformation matrix", and this solution is based on a solution from Jens Geisler. The formula for clockwise rotation is: More information about the vector rotation can be found on Wikipedia.


4

I agree with Tom's answer about RC connectors. Another good connector option worth considering is Anderson Powerpoles. They're "modular" so you can use them to assemble connectors with multiple wires. They crimp instead of solder (I really recommend the special crimping tool if you plan to use these regularly) They're more expensive No male/female, you use ...


4

Your question may be useful to people interested in 3d printing (the purpose of this SE Site) so, even though you're not asking a 3d printing question per se, I think this answer will be helpful... GRBL: GRBL is a well known and mature g-code interpreter that will run on an Arduino Uno and is free and open source. Check it out here. I hope this helps! :-...


4

After replacing the control board, it now prints flawlessly. Apparently,I really did damage the control board...


4

Main factors that control the process of the print bed selection are weight: too thick plate increases inertial force, limiting maximum acceleration/jerk (decreased print speed) stiffness: too thin plate will warp when heated or bend during calibration (decreased print quality/printer reliability) For table sizes around 400x400mm I would think of 4mm plate,...


4

From an electrical standpoint, a two-phase stepper motors (what most 3D printers use) works the same backwards and forwards, the phase just reverses. If you are stalling on only one direction, I would look to see if you have a mechanical bind in that direction. Generally a wiring issue will cause the motor to either not run at all or to run in the wrong ...


4

Do anyone have any ideas? What this can be? How can I fix this? At least judging from the pictures, that does seem like under-extrusion. Some ideas for further investigating the issue. The problem may be due to the gcode being wrong. In this case, your printer is merely executing correctly... the wrong commands. To check if this is the case: The ...


4

You see this for a few reason. First you are going too fast and you are getting belt shift from the whip lash. You can mitigate that by going slower and adjusting your Jerk settings to lower. Though usually this is not a consistent wall. Usually you see this. That said it is likely you have not adjusted the current to your stepper motors correctly. I don't ...


4

Your parts are not in the Prusa Mendel i2 as found here or here. Also note, quote: Parts included in Github repository have the wrong dimensions for the nut traps! Download the correct version from [Thingiverse Greg's Hinged Accesible Extruder] Are you sure you have the correct parts for the original Prusa Mendel i2? Maybe you have a different ...


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