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9

I'm surprised your research hasn't answered your question, as the concept is relatively simple. You have most of the answer in the question. The missing item is a light source. Usually the source is an array of ultraviolet LED modules. There are resin printers that would not be called LCD printers, as they use computer display projectors to generate both the ...


9

One of the options you have would be to create a negative pressure in your working area. This would be accomplished by installing a fan with the flow direction to the outside. The inside portion of the fan should have ducting that terminates near your printer. You could place your printer in something elaborate, or in something as simple as a large cardboard ...


9

Taken in order your questions: Maintenance for a resin printer means keeping the vat or tray clean, using appropriate methods to remove the unused resin (or leaving it in the vat per manufacturer's directions). Cleaning the tray should be done also per manufacturer's spec, although each printer's user forum may provide better or more effective options. The ...


7

While you probably cannot find an MSDS on the resin for your printer (yet), they are out there for other resin based printers. Here's a generic MSDS on one for Objet RGD515: It's not a pretty thing. To back this up, Fabbaloo has two articles out which talk about the toxicity of liquid resin which is light cured. I'm not entirely positive your resin falls ...


6

First things first: Resin is very aggressive. It can very easily make you hypersensitive, even to the fumes of it. So step 1 is easy: Limit exposure Wear gloves when working with resin. As you live with your printer in the same room, bottle up the resin right after use and only open it during use to prevent buildup over time and exposure. To further reduce ...


5

Resin is notoriously hard to handle, especially as exposure to air and light can and will cure it over time. The uncured resin is a hazardous material. Handling hazardous waste The rules for safe disposal can - generally speaking - be broken down to this: make sure the hazardous material can't contaminate water or food sources make sure the hazardous ...


5

Wear Gloves. Returning is impossible Resin does not just harden, it polymerizes into shape from monomers in a chemical reaction. That means to break it down, you need to destroy the whole chemistry. There is no solvent that can simply reverse it. Wiping is easy As long as the rein is still liquid, you can wipe it off. Then clean the parts with Isopropylic ...


4

Concentrated nitric acid will remove all organics, including your skin, wire insulation, etc. It will work on a glass plate, but the fumes would eventually damage the plastics on your printer unless you remove the glass plate to clean it. Nitric acid will destroy most build surfaces that are added to glass. To a lesser extent concentrated sulfuric acid ...


3

Background SLA relies on the properties of UV-curing Resin. Most currently available UV Curing Resins harden to a solid, hard polymer, but that doesn't mean there are no other UV curing resins that are elastic. Most however will not be suitable for SLA or DLP systems! Polyurethanes, which can be flexible if cured in the right way, have not come onto the ...


3

I would personally stick to isopropanol. Be aware that 3D printing is a very expensive hobby, but health wise this is a better option. Methylated spirits can quickly become dangerous, and often can burn with a close to invisible flame, meaning that you may not even see if it is burning. Also, the fumes can quickly become dangerous, whereas after years of ...


3

I own a Sparkmaker FHD whose X/Y resolution is 57µm. Z resolution (layer height) is up to the user, 25, 50 or 100µm being typical values. I have limited experience with it but the level of detail seems to be coherent with the specification. The more popular (but less powerful in therm of UV light, so slower) Anycubic printers have a 2k screen and reach a X/...


3

In general, resin printers can provide a level of detail that has to be viewed with a magnification device. The technology used in the printer will limit the resolution of the printed object. Laser based SLA printers will give the smallest resolution, while LCD panel based printers can be slightly more coarse. The specifications on the web site for that ...


3

Brushed aluminum is a common bed surface for resin based printers. The aspect of the aluminum that is important to the print is the adhesion, hence the roughness of brushed aluminum. It has to be sufficient to hold the print in place, but not so extreme as to cause destruction on removal. In the case of copper as a print surface, one would certainly want ...


3

Despite how many vendors make it appear, resin-curing SLA/DLP printers are industrial or commercial tools that are really not suitable for home desktop use. Here are the major downsides: Significantly more expensive to operate than FDM printers, in most cases. The resin is seriously toxic until fully cured. Fumes can be an issue for users handling raw ...


3

First of all, let's look at what the filaments are: PLA & PVA Filaments Normal PLA and Water-soluble PVA contain for the most part the material on the tin, its precursors, and possibly some modifiers. These are only suitable for thermoplastic processes like injection molding or FDM/FFF (Filament deposition modeling/Fused Filament Fabrication) printers - ...


3

Resin basics Resins are tricky, but probably less tricky than FDM as the manufacturing process is much less likely to include contaminants in the shape of contaminated air, particles, or adding lead into the print. This is all due to the whole process of creating the polymer happening under the protection of the resin, which in its monomeric liquid state is ...


3

I believe you've identified the primary problem with this model. The single surface features are going to interfere with printing this object. The image above is the result of loading the model into Autodesk Netfabb. The red segments are reversed normals, but also single surface components. There are others, visible when rotating the model. One portion is ...


3

First of all, Fred's answer is very well but some more items to note, and a different way to fix them using blender. After opening blender, deleting the box with entf and importing the Wavefront .obj, I changed to edit mode and started inspecting the colored areas for artifacts and what they were. Layered surface only areas The top feathers are made up from ...


3

Short answer: Use a calibration test. Long answer: There are a bunch of calibration test files out there you can run. Ameralabs has a guide on how to read one of them and they have a link to download the STL at the bottom of the website. In short, the test file will print with a bunch of features that are hard for the printer to handle (thin posts, angles, ...


2

When using a DLP 3D printer, a projector (or other UV light source) is shining on a layer of resin. As the light source shines on a whole layer at a time, it is able to print at a rather constant linear vertical rate. This rate is normally around 2.5 cm (1 inch)/hour When comparing this to a standard FDM printer or a single laser system (such as the Pegasus ...


2

Thank you folks. The issue was bad/old resin and left in the tank too long. Replacing all my stocks with fresh and following rigorous stirring and decanting I now have resin curing well during the print. Sorry to have taken so long to get back to it.


2

It might be the case that the resin separated into layers in the tray. Try mixing the resin well in its container. I have also heard it can help to filter the resin prior to mixing.


2

Factually, the correct process is to heat up the mold hot enough to evaporate the positive. In investment casting the process to remove the wax or plastic positive is called the "Dewax" and "Burnout preheating". The answer to your question depends on the material you use to generate a negative mold of the positive product. E.g. many silicate based ...


2

This is a guess but it may be a problem with the sliced file. Take a look though the layers of the sliced file to see if your software is adding a layer there. sometimes it looks fine in the 3d model but it can add a layer while slicing.


2

The glass will block most of the uv light; but not all. It will depend on the type of light that the resin is sensitive to; in order to determine if it will continue to cure behind a glass window in direct sunlight. Some resins also sensitive to blue light. You will need to look at the material data sheet for the resin to be able to know for sure. Be advised ...


2

This test is not just a verification solid, is a program that tries different exposures and shows them all side by side: https://github.com/altLab/photon-resin-calibration The test doesn't move slower and slower, but it does something equivalent: keeps the plate in the same position while changing the bitmap. EDIT I tried the test, and I'm not happy about ...


2

Since every printer is slightly different (light intensity, for example), you probably want to run one of those 12-spot test patterns where each "spot" gets a different exposure time, then see what time works best. I found a more general test pattern at Amerilabs Calibration File which may be useful. Not to mention a zillion other test patterns


2

The printer prints, then moves up, then down again. The print surface stays inside the resin vat at all times. As a result, we have this experiment: The "bottle" is resting in a vat of liquid. As we raise it more and more, it does not drain until the lower lid is free of the liquid surface or some point of the shell delaminates. The release of the ...


2

There are generally 3 ways, in order of least to most desirable, and at times you need to combine them in an escalation: Toss the vat. This is the most expensive and generally should only be the last resort, for example, if you damage your film. Careful Brute Force. This can damage the film, but carefully getting a wedge between the film and the print might ...


2

Yes and No at the same time First of all, yes, you can mix resins. However, you should only mix resins that are of the same makeup, as in one brand and type. Why? because different types of resin have different compositions and different polymerization types. Mixing different types can result in unpredictable behavior, and not working at all! To test, use a ...


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