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The heated bed alone draws 220 W of 24 V power, so I'm going to say no, you shouldn't attempt to run two Ender 3 machines from a single power supply. Instead, because the whole machine only draws about 3.5 A at 115 V (or half that at 230 V), you should consider installing a power strip or (better) a small UPS to both power both machines from your existing ...


2

You can use the M220 g-code like M220 S200 to speed up your print speed to 200%. You can simply enter this g-code command in OctoPrints "Terminal" tab at any time.


2

yes Print speed is a setting that can be altered by just turning the click-wheel of the Ender 3. You don't need to push it to gain access to menus. A turn to the right does increase the speed, left lowers it. It is applied only some moments after stopping the turning - then the firmware does inject a M220 command as the next line. This means the current ...


2

If you are skilled with soldering, you can connect the pins of the SD card reader directly to the pins of the CPU with thin wires. They are small, but it's doable. Then hot glue all in place to avoid stress on the wires. Whatever you decide to do, be sure that it will be less convenient than getting a new board, assuming you value your time at least around ...


2

You may get lucky flashing firmware with the STM Cube Programmer, though I haven't tried that. The schematic for the SKR 1.4 Turbo shows that the relevant pins for the SD card are also accessible via the 2x3 SPI header - except for the P0.27 pin used for "SD DETECT", which you may have to circumvent. I believe you should be able to use an "...


2

First of all, make sure that you have correctly identified the X and Y axes, and that the stepper motors (and end-stop switches) are connected to the correct ports. The hot end moves on the X-axis, and the bed moves on the Y-axis. If you connect the X and Y motors the wrong way round, you will get reversed text. If the X and Y motors are connected to the ...


2

The Ender 3 has a printable area of 220x220x250 mm according to the specifications. So, there is nothing wrong. Sometimes heated beds are slightly larger than the actual print area. E.g. 235x235 mm or 310x310 mm. For centering the nozzle to the build plate, you should look into "How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)&...


1

My Ender 3 has the same connections on the power supply. As received from the factory, the machine runs off one set (mainboard, bed heat, hotend, and fans) and the other set is left open (I think they're connected inside the power supply). Given mine is a 300 W rated supply like yours, you should be okay drawing 15 A connected to either V+ and either COM ...


1

As @towe mentioned, 'no-driver-detected' messages in Octoprint log are harmless if you have TMC2100 motors. After experimenting with RepRap settings I found the correct configuration that works with my hardware. Here is the relevant part of the configuration. ; Drives M569 P0 S1 ; physical drive 0 goes forwards M569 P1 S1 ...


1

Extruder stops to spin The problem you described seem to be reported elsewhere for TMC in relation to stealthChop mode (unsure, see below) and linear advance. For details look at this comment in Extruder stops during print (Bugfix-2.0.x) #17944. An advice from there is to supplement the G-code with (my interpretation): M569 S0 E ; disable stealthChop for ...


1

For some reason the Z axis finishes homing with the extruder 6 mm above the bed. If homing Z axes seems proper - i.e. nozzle is "touching" the bed during proces, and not going below the bed level) - then homing may be correct. Otherwise do troubleshooting, as has been suggested in comments. Check also the offset and backoff settings. All these ...


1

I discovered something which could be the answer to the problem, in Marlin compiling there is: //#define Z_AFTER_PROBING 2 // Z position after probing is done You have to uncomment it and change number 2 to how many millimeters you want it to be above the 3D printer bed.


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