It's important to understand what specifically is being compared. CLIP is much faster than bottom-up technologies that require a peel step between every layer. For example, the Form1 galvo SLA printer tilts the resin vat to separate the transparent bottom from the print. That is, by far, the slowest part of SLA/DLP printing with most modern light sources. ...
Prints could end up on tray for couple of reasons.
Vacuum force on early layers - Usually you should lose pieces on the center of platform
Put holes or channels on platform
Very slow speed on early layers
Use smaller platform
Use tilt mechanism
Use larger support structures
Use stickier platform - Anodized aluminum is specially good
Non-aligned platform ...
One of the options you have would be to create a negative pressure in your working area. This would be accomplished by installing a fan with the flow direction to the outside. The inside portion of the fan should have ducting that terminates near your printer. You could place your printer in something elaborate, or in something as simple as a large cardboard ...
I'm surprised your research hasn't answered your question, as the concept is relatively simple. You have most of the answer in the question. The missing item is a light source. Usually the source is an array of ultraviolet LED modules. There are resin printers that would not be called LCD printers, as they use computer display projectors to generate both the ...
While you probably cannot find an MSDS on the resin for your printer (yet), they are out there for other resin based printers. Here's a generic MSDS on one for Objet RGD515:
It's not a pretty thing.
To back this up, Fabbaloo has two articles out which talk about the toxicity of liquid resin which is light cured. I'm not entirely positive your resin falls ...
The plastic used in SLA printing is what is known as a thermoset plastic, as opposed to the thermoplastic plastics used in FDM printing. What this means, is that it can not be melted. The reaction that hardens SLA materials is irreversible. If you heat up the plastic it won't melt, it will just burn (if it gets hot enough). What you're planning is a bad idea,...
First things first: Resin is very aggressive. It can very easily make you hypersensitive, even to the fumes of it. So step 1 is easy:
Wear gloves when working with resin. As you live with your printer in the same room, bottle up the resin right after use and only open it during use to prevent buildup over time and exposure. To further reduce ...
Resin is notoriously hard to handle, especially as exposure to air and light can and will cure it over time. The uncured resin is a hazardous material.
Handling hazardous waste
The rules for safe disposal can - generally speaking - be broken down to this:
make sure the hazardous material can't contaminate water or food sources
make sure the hazardous ...
I have tried to print the piece upside-down with the cave part facing down and it worked.
Since the printer prints upside down, positioning the cave part facing up creates a suction-cup effect on the printer display that makes the whole structure stick to the lcd and detach from the supporting structure, thus making the print fail.
Have you thought about using ASA filament? ASA filament is very strong. ASA filament is similar to ABS filament (if you have ever worked with that). When contrasting it to ABS filament, ASA has a higher resistance against UV and chemical exposure. It will also have no problem with the water. Both ASA and ABS filament print at about the same temperatures.
Yes, of course it does. The same amount of light is being spread across a wider area, so there's less light per area. Once you're past a few 10's of filament diameters, a point source is a highly accurate representation of most light bulbs. Even more so when there's a lens setup that causes the light to go through a point focus.
I also had issues with the first layer sticking to the build plate and I did not want to sand the plate. As most people will mention you need to make sure that your plate is perfectly level and the z height is right (lots of friction on the paper). You also need the correct exposure times for your resin and the first few layers should get 60 seconds of ...
It depends on tray and resin type you are using.
If you are using PDMS (eg. sylgard 184) coating for your tray. (B9 and similar printers using this type of tray).
Life of tray PDMS coating depends mainly on:
How long you print without breathing floor.
How reactive is your resin.
You could get 2 3 prints up to 15 20 prints.
It is suitable for ...
Gloves, you want to wear them whenever handling any resin. Single-use gloves are best - dispose of them after use. Consider them contaminated after touching anything in contact with resin and toss them before handling anything that shall not get in contact with resin. That includes door handles.
A good idea is to also wear eye protection, as ...
Not with consumer equipment.
FDM printers are functionally three-axis motion control machines: "extrude quantity W material at position X Y Z, continue to next W, X, Y, and Z."
Adapting it to control a laser position is a relatively simple task, because most of the logic is the same. "fire laser for W duration" instead of "extrude ...
Once the non stick coating wears off you'll notice degraded print quality over time and a more agressive sound from the print breaking free when switching layers as the print uses more and more force to break free from the tray with each layer when the non stick coating degrades. The good thing is this will not happen at once so you will start to notice ...
I have a plain smooth aluminium build plate and it seemed that all problems with adhesion which I had were caused by the plate not cleaned well enough with IPA and a paper towel, after removing (allegedly) the rests of the previous model with a metal scraper. The new model was peeling off only in places where the old model was previously attached. Now I ...
I had the same exact problems. Nothing would stick to the platform. One day I realized, that all of the failed prints would always start to fall off to one side, and all of the successful prints were all misformed and kinda diagonal. The platform was not level.
Another problem that I more recently had was that I left resin on the plate for a couple of ...
It looks like Ono may fit what you are looking for.
They have several colors listed on their site.
Clear Creamy White
They also have a flexible resin and a low temperature "casting" resin.
It is unclear if the resin is available now or if it is preorder.
I would personally stick to isopropanol. Be aware that 3D printing is a very expensive hobby, but health wise this is a better option. Methylated spirits can quickly become dangerous, and often can burn with a close to invisible flame, meaning that you may not even see if it is burning. Also, the fumes can quickly become dangerous, whereas after years of ...
From what I have researched, each brand of printer has their own method of slicing objects for their printer to parse. For example:
Peopoly Uses a profile for Cura
Creality, Elegoo and Phrozen use CHITUBOX
Anycubic uses their Photon Workshop
There doesn't appear to be any golden ticket type of method (like G-Code) for slicing and providing instructions.
SLA relies on the properties of UV-curing Resin. Most currently available UV Curing Resins harden to a solid, hard polymer, but that doesn't mean there are no other UV curing resins that are elastic. Most however will not be suitable for SLA or DLP systems!
Polyurethanes, which can be flexible if cured in the right way, have not come onto the ...
You can definitely use glue - however you can also brush some of the liquid resin along the edges of the two pieces, push them together and cure them, this will fuse them together.
You don't need much, and you need to watch for drip out while curing (don't your fingers in it)
Resins are tricky, but probably less tricky than FDM as the manufacturing process is much less likely to include contaminants in the shape of contaminated air, particles, or adding lead into the print. This is all due to the whole process of creating the polymer happening under the protection of the resin, which in its monomeric liquid state is ...
I did some research and the life of the resin and resin tray appears to be dependent on how you use it. For example, regarding the resin, 3dfacture states "We see almost unlimited shelf life of the resin as long as it is kept out of light".
I know you asked about the tray and not the resin; but, the two are inter-coupled to the same fundamental issue. ...
When using a DLP 3D printer, a projector (or other UV light source) is shining on a layer of resin. As the light source shines on a whole layer at a time, it is able to print at a rather constant linear vertical rate. This rate is normally around 2.5 cm (1 inch)/hour
When comparing this to a standard FDM printer or a single laser system (such as the Pegasus ...
I know using a projector sounds like solution; but, I in practice, think it is going to be difficult.
My concern with trying to use a projector would be two-fold.
It would have to project on a large flat surface. Since basic optics wants to focus on a sphere, when projecting on a flat surface you have to adjust for a focus distance that ...
The number of 100x could be true in some situations. I wish I could see the part(s) that they printed to measure this 100x, but that is another story.
Looking at their videos they can move the build plate at a maximum speed of 10mm per minute. You will see the Eiffel tower video where they have to change over to standard speed for flat layers. It is ...
You've covered a couple of concerns "outside the box," but the real tests will come when you pour some of the resin into the vat.
If you don't get a reaction with the release layer, score one for your side. The release layer is a silicone kind of compound, which typically is un-reactive to most substances, but that's not to say the thinner qualifies in ...
Daylight resin choice is extremely limited. And would not get much better at-least in short term. Majority of new LCD based 3D printers are using UV LED.
Checkout Wanhao D7, Phrozen3d and other newly released 3D printers.
I strongly advice you to checkout Ionel Ciobanuc progress on his printer.
He starts by making the first LCD based 3D printer actually ...