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15

My understanding is that this occurs when the object is not a true solid. Since an STL holds the triangulation of each face and spline, the slicing engine is not "smart" enough to determine if there is a gap in the model and therefore if it should be filled in and how. When the slicer encounters a gap, it will either treat the endpoint as the end ...


12

Basically, you print too hot (and fast) without enough cooling. The deformed small pin in your image is a perfect example of depositing new layers onto too hot (not cooled down enough) prior layers. You can easily solve this by printing two identical parts spaced apart from each other. This allows the layers to cool before the next is deposited. From ...


11

Although the core of Slic3r is written in C++ a lot of other components such as infill generation are written in Perl. Since Slic3r is open source there is nothing stopping you from writing your own infill module in Perl and recompiling your own version of Slic3r. If your considering doing this you can find the existing infill code in the Github repository ...


8

It's a nozzle size issue. The model contains a lot of details which is really challenging to print with a 0.4 mm nozzle. A big nozzle is just not able to print such fine details. You should switch to 0.25 mm or 0.15 mm. Just try to set a smaller nozzle in your slicer. There is a nice article on Prusa's blog showing the difference in printing ...


7

Warping. Especially with materials like ABS, you want the plastic to cool down as gradually (and slowly) as possible, to prevent the print from warping as the cooling plastic contracts. On small layers, cooling is usually mandatory: with really small layers, you just end up with a big glob of molten plastic if the previous layer hasn't solidified enough ...


7

The filename is under the "Print settings" tab. Under output options, you can change the name template. You can use words like: [layer_height] to make the name dynamic. The variable you are looking for here is: [filament_preset] But the full name, with space and everything, is used. Here is a screenshot: Here is a link to fuller docs: https://github.com/...


6

Formally, G0 is a rapid move and G1 is a coordinated move. A G1 will cause the printhead to move in a straight line from the begin to the end position, whereas a G0 allows the printhead to move in any curve, so long as it ends up in the target position. Because of acceleration and deceleration constraints, it can sometimes be faster to move in a curve rather ...


6

Possible way to calculate the volume of material used is to multiply the filament length (calculated by CURA after slicing and displayed in lower right corner) and surface of filament tip. Volume = Filament_length * ( Filament_diameter / 2 )^2 * PI Of course do not forget to convert all values to the same order of magnitude (e.g. cm³).


6

3D printer get the temperature settings from g-code file. The firmware settings for min and max temperature are just safeguards. You should verify instructions within the g-code file. If you are not familiar with g-code, take a look to wikipedia. List of g-code instructions for marlin firmware is here. Instruction responsible for setting bed temperature ...


6

An extra gap of 0.2 mm on top of your existing gap seems rather illogical as the filament is not squished at the build plate anymore. Furthermore 0.2 mm plus something you already have will soon result in a gap over 75% of your nozzle diameter (including your first layer; note that 75% is considered to be the max for good adhesion). The filament will then ...


6

Filament type should have nothing to do with the issues you are facing. This is a mechanical issue or a slicing/scaling issue. The hotend should, if instructed to go to 20 mm height actually go to 20 mm (it did do that before!), it cannot "lose" 2 mm on the way up unless you have a lot of lost steps (e.g. too much load on the carriage pressing it down, but ...


6

It is not too rare to create a new machine in Ultimaker Cura to be set to 2.85 mm as this is the default. Also some bugs in the past did reset or assume this diameter unless you manually set it, and unless we know your exact version we can't confirm it is really this. Underextrusion why? The 0.55 mm more radius result in an underextrusion due to the pressed ...


6

The thin core gathers too much heat in the printing process. If you need to print slender objects, either: Print several. This is the most simple solution and best for beginners. Increase cooling. A better cooling solution or increased fan speed often can help to get thin or delicate objects printed. set minimum layer time to slow down the printer ...


6

The other answers have addressed the heat problem. The other risk is that a rod printed vertically like this is prone to snap, because the weakest axis is between layers. I often rotate pieces like this and print with the rod horizontal. You then have to remove the support and/or brim material, and probably do a bit of sanding to get it properly round, ...


6

You can put the speed to 100 % by G-code command: M220 S100. The M220command is described here. Know that speed changes sent to the printer have an effect on the next printed layer, it first finishes the current layer at the speed commanded before starting printing the layer.


5

Auto speed is calculated from maximum volumetric speed in mm3 per second. If you normally print at 80 mm/s, your extrusion width is 0.5 mm and you are printing 0.2mm high layers, your volumetric speed would be 80 * 0.5 * 0.2 = 8 mm3/s, which is the volume of plastic extruded by your printer every second when printing at that speed (not accounting for any die ...


5

A Delta printer requires constant complex calculations to produce straight lines while printing. The firmware, therefore, spends most of its time figuring out the step and timing sequence, and only the little remaining time between interrupts and these calculations is given to the user interface. Marlin doesn't document any configuration parameters that ...


5

You stated your print of a 20mm cube came out spot on so I will rule out any z-axis configuration issues. It clearly seems like you are extruding too much plastic. I use slic3r myself with repetier so I am familiar with the settings. Print Settings - Advanced All the values should be 0 except first layer sometimes is 100%-200% depending on your personal ...


5

Removing that line will not affect your printer, except that it will get rid of the warning displayed on the screen. I wanted to know [...] if there's something else to consider. You should probably upgrade your firmware to the latest version to benefit from a couple of bugfixes and performance increases.


5

So it turns out there are elements from each of the previous answers that make sense here, but its not a clear picture. I've spent a whole lot of time trying to make sense of this. I also upgraded my firmware to Sailfish. For the MakerBot Replicator (or FastForge Creator) family of 3d printers, the origin of the build plate is NOT at any of the corners, ...


4

This is still work in progress, and here is what I have so far, but first: A useful alternative for similar problems: A problem very similar to this would be to use different settings for different parts of a model in Slic3r. For most settings, this can be achieved through modifier meshes. Post processing scripts: As far as I know, Slic3r does not give ...


4

If you ever seen 3d printouts on your own and you did keep it in hand then you probably felt layers. Most printouts contains 3 main "components" bottom and top component (floor and ceiling) outline (perimeters) infill (inside supporting structure) It is almost imposible (and for sure sensless) to create all these components with one continues line as it ...


4

You answered your own question in a comment. Yes, of course, increasing the maximum supplied current to the motor gets rid of the issue. Still, I'd rather go with lower current to limit heating up the motors. I was just wondering if there is something in the two slicing engines that makes cura provoke much harsher movements that cause the printer to lose ...


4

It isn't hidden at all. It's just that the Z-axis position only changes with each layer change, so the Z coordinate is only passed at layer change. On line 17 of your example G-code, it starts the first layer at Z=0.5mm: G1 Z0.500 F7800.000 The next time you should expect Z to appear is on the next layer.


4

In slic3r preview, salmon (pink) represents infill, yellow represents perimeters, and green represents support material, including skirt and brim.


4

I've now worked out the reason for the plastic 'running' on the second layer. It is because of the way that I prepared the G-Code file, using the option in Slic3r which lets you alter the layer height for certain layers in the print. The problem with this appears to be that there are other settings which are not altered at the same time for the thicker ...


4

Given my limited familiarity with all the CAD tools that exist, I would fall back to something that I know does binary operations on volumes -- openScad. One can create two objects, one from each of the two STL files, and subtract one from the other. One can also compute intersections, unions, and other operations. There are probably other programs that ...


4

From a single image from this perspective (front view) you cannot map the coin surface in detail. There is reported limited success in estimating the depth of single images, but, this is for images with a clear perspective (e.g. like a picture of a room showing the walls and floor at an angle). In order to map the surface you will need to have multiple ...


4

You need to put a check mark to enable supports in Slic3r as you cannot print in mid-air. This option is found under "Print settings" with header name "Support settings". Please look at the Slic3r manual for more options.


4

I printed the thing for some layers to see what the printer actually does: There are clearly too many retractions and unretractions. This can be seen in advance by letting Slic3r show the retractions and unretractions. For the green "walls", it became clear that it prints them exactly onto the empty space, so in fact the seem to be floating. That made ...


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