Your question begins in an inappropriate format for StackExchange, but you've ended it with one more appropriate by asking if Blender would work.
If you are willing to take the time to learn Blender, you are certain to discover that it will do as you require, and much much more. Your referenced model could be created using engineering-type design software ...
I suggest Blender. It's not the simplest of tools but it is free and learning it will improve your 3D printing skills. :-) (I write this answer also for future viewers of this question so I start basic).
Another answer can be found here, How do I measure a distance between two points?
Import your STL file.
Press the Home key to view everything.
Select the ...
I don't have a heavy math background, but enjoy using such skills when applicable.
If you've not yet explored OpenSCAD, you may find that it meets your qualifications. It's more or less a scripting/descriptive language "compiler" that takes ordinary text and converts it to your model design. I use quotes, because I'm not skilled enough to qualify it as a ...
The easiest way is as you currently do: model the pieces by hand, using (digital) calipers to measure them.
Scanning technology isn't very good, and the models are not of printable quality. Usually, fixing a scan is more work than modeling an item from scratch.
There are several programs that could serve as a console to connect to a printer, put let's start somewhere: the USB connection.
Step 1: Connection with USB
When connecting the printer via USB for the first time, we will get a notification that some unknown item is connected. If we use windows we can learn what device it decided we now have via the device ...
A program that lists as functional with Linux is Lightburn. It's new to the laser engraving world and supports GRBL type controllers as well as Ruida brand and possibly a few others. If you can determine your controller, you're a step ahead of the game.
Directly from their site:
LightBurn is layout, editing, and control software for your ...
In Cura (and Slic3r), you can 100% customize what the printer does before printing your actual model through custom start/end g-code.
If you navigate to the Start/End-GCode tab in Cura, then select start.gcode, you can see what operations are run before each print begins. Lines prefixed with ; are comments, and does not affect the printing in any way.
I'm assuming you actually want to build Cura, rather than simply install Cura. If you instead want to install Cura, you can try sudo apt-get install cura-engine
The following instructions were tested on my own Debian 8 (Jessie) distribution; they should be mostly, if not entirely, the same, for Ubuntu. Note that I did not follow the exact steps as described ...
You can use OpenSCAD. It's a script based powerful CAD open source software under GPL.
On Thingiverse, a lot of things are made with this CAD software (the Customizer flagged ones) and you can just download their source code (.scad) and directly edit them !
You can also import existing STL and edit them like they were a primitive shape like a cube. You can ...
Vase Mode changed the name in some version before 3.5. Now you can achieve this with 2 modes: "Surface Mode" and "Spiralize Outer Contour". To turn it on do this:
Choose the Custom setting menu on the right
click a gear to set up what settings you want to see
Under the header "Special Modes" you find both Surface Mode and Spiralize Outer Contour
set the ...
You're not supposed to do the single-wall perimeter thickness test to calibrate Simplify3D. That screws up the extrusion volume. The correct volume calibration procedure for S3D is:
Measure actual average filament diameter and input that
Print a 100% infill calibration cubes
If the print is over-extruded (top or sides bulging), decrease ...
What you ask may be easier than you think. The slicing software is unimportant, generally speaking. Consider especially that your requirements fit the solution spot on.
Take a look at this thingiverse snowman.
Each of the colors is a separate model. Each of the colors is only one layer thick (0.200 mm). Each of the colors is placed with zero overlap to the ...
If you want to do basic edits to an STL, a program such as MeshMixer might be right for your. It offers the ability to combine and subtract models, add custom supports, and similar, in a fairly straight forward manner.
An alternative that allows your to do complex editing of STLs would be Autodesk Fusion 360. Here you can import STLs into meshes, which you ...
OpenSCAD has a great feature called projection which allows you to select a vertical location and effectively "cast a shadow" of the part. The projection becomes a 2D object scaled to the original model.
One can rotate, translate or otherwise transform the model prior to performing the projection function, in order to get the appropriate 2D drawing.
NOTE: This is not from personal experience, but I thought it was worth mentioning:
You've probably seen this already - I am not a fan at all of M$, but... Microsoft Plus Raspberry Pi Equals Network 3D Printer.
Here is another link to the same, Network 3D Printer with Windows 10 IoT Core, but, unfortunately, your printer is apparently not supported.
You are probably looking for something like this:
Note this is for large beds (300 x 300 mm), so you would have to X, Y scale this in your slicer.
This is a simple part that is very easily generated with OpenSCAD 3D design software (very good modeller if you are familiar with software coding), but could easily been designed in any other tool.
No, there exists no software like that. You can't communicate with a RAMPs board because a RAMPs board has no logic built-in; it's just a dumb breakout board that connects the Arduino Mega to your printer's components (such as stepper drivers, MOSFETs for controlling heaters, endstops,...).
If you wanted to connect a RAMPs board "directly" to your computer, ...
The problem you are experiencing is because the position where the y endstop is triggered does not correspond to y = 0, but perhaps corresponds to y = 15 (replace 15 by the offset you're seeing). You can perhaps solve this by adjusting the endstop to trigger at the correct point, but you can also adjust this behavior in software: In your start G-code, after ...
Netfabb came up in a number of suggestions that I found. Take a look at 3D Printing Under Arch Linux, which offers a number of solutions for Linux, including:
Taking the section on Netfabb:
netfabb Private will provide you with a fully-loaded tool-box to do all this and much more:
fix complicated ...
You can't prove that because it isn't true. An STL file is just a collection of triangles. There is no guarantee that an intersection with the slicing plane will consist of closed-loop polygons. To be suitable for 3D printing an STL file should represent one or more closed, disjoint polyhedra (which would yield closed-loop polygons) but this is not always ...
This program type you seek for is called a slicer. However, you got to manually choose support structure and rafting - the tricky part is getting the configuration right for your build. To my knowledge there are no slicers that decide automatically to raft unless you configure to raft always and you have to enable support.
G-code is likely not the solution to your problem. G-code are simple commands that are executed by the printer (e.g. "heat up the hotend to this temperature" or "move the extruder to this position") but there is no G-code for "detect whether the pusher is still running" (and besides, how could the printer possibly detect whether the pusher is running without ...
I think the command you're looking for is "Thicken". Recent versions of Fusion360 have moved this around, but now it should appear under the Create Panel when you're in the the Model mode (see the image below for details). A detailed description and short screencast on the Autodesk website here.
A quick search on the internet showed that your experiences are shared by others.
Apparently, it has something to do with a faulty chip or the software.
From this thread:
I had the same thing, the cop on the underside of the cartridge wasn’t
programmed properly, if you have the latest firmware update and it
still doesn’t work contact the seller and they ...
I just found https://github.com/aquamorta/kkengraver:
This software is intended to be used with a KKMoon laser engraver (3000mW). It comes with ABSOLUTELY NO WARRANTY. It may or may not work with an other kind of laser engraver.
Some good internet guy/girl reverse engineered the communications and dropped it into a nice Python script - web server included.
In addition to this answer, the OctoPrint 3D print server software contains a terminal which you can use to send G-code commands from a browser:
In the bottom string input box (under the check mark items) you put in a G-code command, which will be send to the printer when you hit the Send button. If the printer gives a reply to that command, it ...
The operation you want is almost just cat'ing the files together. However you need to remove the 80 byte header from all but the first, and add up the 32-bit triangle count from each file immediately after that. Output should be:
Copy of first 80 bytes of file 1
Sum of int32 from offset 80 of each file.
Bytes 84-end from each file.