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One big challenge with scaling anything up (or down), is that not all properties or characteristics scale linearly.
Consider a trivial case: a small cube. If you double the size, you've quadrupled the surface area and octupled the weight.
If you take a desktop-sized 3d printer design, and just double the size, it will weigh 8 times as much. But all the ...
12
The four main motor speed limits in a 3d printer are:
Firmware step generation frequency limits
Firmware motion planner effects
Loss of torque and precision due to motor coil inductance and back-EMF effects
Mid-band resonance
Step generation rate limits will depend on the firmware and controller board used. There is a significant range, particularly when ...
10
The short answer is, you use the temps and speeds that give you good results. It's trial and error.
The temperature number your printer reports really doesn't matter. That's just a process control variable: it needs to be consistent and repeatable, but it doesn't need to be accurate against an independent reference. What you should care about is your print ...
9
Short answer no
We use stepper drivers to limit the current, the travel speed is at capped by the amount of current supplied by the stepper drivers. This prevents the stepper motors from damaging themselves. You can set 200mm/s in the slicer, but you have no guarantee that that will be reached in real life.
One thing to keep in mind though is that setting ...
8
You could experiment with slicing. For example, you might not need high resolution all over the object, but you can speed up some straight parts by using greater layer high there. See a part of Slic3r manual about such thing.
It is also possible to print thicker infill every Nth layer, see Infill optimization in Slic3r.
Other slicers might have those ...
7
What would my printer do if I set very big travel speed?
If a speed is set above the limits of the stepper, the stepper will stop rotating or stutters.
Basically there are 2 limits, the first is the limit of the board to generate the pulses to the stepper and second, how these pulses are processed by the stepper.
The speed of steppers depends on several ...
7
By turning the knob in the main screen, you're adjusting "feed rate".
This is essentially a factor that all g-code speed settings are multiplied with - "speed dial" seems an appropriate name for it.
"Flow rate" is something different altogether - this is multiplied with the extrusion commands. It has the same effect as changing your extruders steps-per-mm.
...
6
As @fred_dot_u mentions, Simplify3D has the capability to do this, but you can achieve the same effect by slicing the file twice, once at 40 mm/s and once at 50 mm/s, and then manually combining the generated G-code using a text editor. You should be able to find the point where it transitions from printing the cube to printing the circular structure by ...
6
In my experience a print speed of 50-70mm/s is ideal. Even if you set the speed to 150mm/s the print head still changes directions often and rarely will have enough time to accelerate from 0->150 before changing direction again.
Some more effective ways of speeding up prints is to adjust
Layer height
Infill percentage (15-25% for regular prints, more if ...
6
Not being able to see the rest of the model (from the first image), if looks as if the light green sliced area displaying a lower speed for the top of the cylinder, is the only part that need to be printed to that height (now confirmed in the second image). This speed reduction is done by the slicer and is not specifically caused by Ultimaker Cura (other ...
6
It's well known in mathematical circles that the "salesman problem" is what mathematicians call "hard" -- in their usage, that means a lot of extremely smart people have worked on the problem for many years (more than a century?) and still not found a robust, works-every-time solution.
What's probably happening with Cura and other slicers ...
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I had the same problem, and I solved it by changing the Z-Axis Feed Rate to a much higher value (1000 mm/min.) in Repetier Host via Config -> Printer Settings -> Printer.
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If I understand your question correctly, it sounds like you're looking somewhere within the RepRap realm. The RepRap community is mostly responsible for the boom in consumer 3D printing in the past 10 years, and that's most likely because it's open source. RepRap designs are mostly dynamic (and most parts can be 3D printed), so you could theoretically build ...
5
Holes in vertical walls will make it take significantly more time to print, not less. Rather than being able to make a continuous path around the box on each layer, keeping the print head at the desired speed the whole time, the printer will have to run around each connected component of the layer separately, slowing down, retracting, speeding up to travel, ...
answered Jan 14 at 18:54
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
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As far as I know, right now, all the "3D printers" that can print houses, bridges, etc. are experimental models (and sometimes, vey elaborate art projects) - they just don't exist except as one-off creations designed as a proof-of-concept showing this can be done.
Maybe some of those project published their plans and code but they are not designed for mass ...
4
This is still work in progress, and here is what I have so far, but first:
A useful alternative for similar problems:
A problem very similar to this would be to use different settings for different parts of a model in Slic3r. For most settings, this can be achieved through modifier meshes.
Post processing scripts:
As far as I know, Slic3r does not give ...
4
Cura has a plugin called "Tweak at Z" that lets you change the speed at a specific layer/height, I used it when printing an object that's basically a curved box for 100 mm and then has tiny features in the last 10 mm and it worked very well.
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Are the layers where this is happening smaller than previous layers? Many slicers have a minimum layer time setting where if the layer takes less than X time, it will either slow the layer down or possibly pause until the time is reached.
This can be useful to allow the previous layer to cool down and harden up a bit before more hot plastic is added. If ...
4
The duration of a print is affected by the print properties. Speed, nozzle diameter (or line width), layer height, amount of perimeters, infill percentage, combing, support structures to name a few important parameters.
So, the only way to tell how long the printer will be printing a certain STL is by loading the STL file into a slicer and slice the model ...
4
The first indication for print speed and temperature should be taken from the box the filament comes in. Generally it specifies temperature ranges for the hotend and the heated bed. Sometime, mostly online, more parameters can be found amongst which is the printing speed.
Do note that temperature and printing speed are linked, if you want to print faster ...
4
In Ultimaker Cura, unless you print a single perimeter outline and add extra wall infill support you are not going to have different outer perimeter layer heights.
However, Cura is able to reduce the printing time, E.g. you can have fine layers for the wall (all perimeters), and coarse layers for the infill. The option is called "Infill Layer Thickness":
...
4
Speaking from first hand experience running a Volcano hotend, mostly using a 0.6 mm nozzle, but I have used 0.4 mm as well. I can't really complain about any lower printing speed limit (low speeds are usually a solution to high speeds problems for me).
Just for completeness: I am using a DaVinci 1.1 Plus with custom firmware (modified Marlin) and ...
4
Most slicers have a feature in their cooling settings to "slow down if layer print time is below xxx".
Setting this to a higher value should ensure that small / short layers aren't printed too fast, so that cooling is still reliable.
Shorter layers are slowed down linearly to reach the specified minimum time - unless a "minimum print speed&...
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Long story short: I only know the setting "Combing Mode OFF" that improves the travel paths. In my case it did not help. In your case I suggest you should give PrusaSlicer a try. I assume that the overall print duration will be improved because of a better calculation of the travel paths. But this is only my personal opinion between these two ...
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Your travel speed is set to 120mm/s so it would make sense the 128mm travel takes ~1 second. You most likely have combing turned on so that it doesn't not need to retract on travels. This makes it ooze plastic as it travels and would mimic underextrustion.
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All commonly used slicers (e.g., Cura, Slic3r, Simplify3D,...) give an estimation of the print time.
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Simplify3D has the ability to create more than one process, to be applied to the model at specific layers. It appears that feature fits perfectly with your requirements. As an example, you might create a process within S3D for layers 1 to 500 at the desired 50 mm / sec along with any other modifications you wish. The second process would specify layers 501 ...
3
As per the detailed answer given by Ryan Carlyle, it can be a trial and error process to determine the optimal settings for your printer. This certainly does not require absolute accuracy of the temperature sensors1 or the use of ideal filament to achieve. In your slicing program it should be possible to increment or alter the parameters - like 'flow rate' ...
3
You can change the maximum allowable feedrate in Configuration.h, but the actual feedrate that is used isn't determined by your firmware. The feedrate is specified in the G-Code file. A command like
G0 X10.0 Y15.0 Z3.0 F9000
indicates a move to (10,15,3) at a feedrate of 9000 mm/min. If F is not specified, the last used feedrate is used.
You just have to ...
3
The worry must be about oozing and stringing. In general, no worries! Nothing a bit of tuning would not fix.
I have experience printing with Volcano with 0.4, 0.6, 0.8, and 1.0 mm diameter.
PLA, PETG, Nylon, TPE, and TPU. (Volcano nozzles have been my default style for several years now. I don't even own a 10 mm heat block anymore (ok, maybe one))...
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