Stepper motors contain two distinct sets of coils. The current in these coils is governed by your stepper motor driver.
To move the motor in either direction, the coils are being driven one after another, and in different directions.
Imagine this being a normal 3-phase AC motor, but instead of three phases, only two are used.
A "full steps" (1/1 "...
I want to add some points and clarifications to the answer that @darthpixel already has given. Most information you need is in there, I want to give some more practical advice, since that is what I understand you're question is asking for. I'll start with some points on the more theoretical side, though:
notice that the Vref is not a voltage that is passed ...
Generally speaking voltage on stepstick output should be around 1V.
To imagine more or less what the current and what the voltage is, you can think about it in the same way as about water.
The wire is more or less the same as the pipe.
The voltage can be imagined as (sort of) the height from which the water flows but the current can be imagined as an ...
Did you heat the hotend before attempting to move the extruder? Most firmwares block cold extrusion. If you send the printer M302 it will allow the extruder motor to move without the hotend being above the temperature set in the firmware. Jumpers next to drivers are used to set microstepping, no need to adjust these unless you changed to a different type ...
In the configuration.h file of Marlin 2.0.x you can define which stepper driver type is used to drive the stepper in the Stepper Drivers section.
You can choose to use the following constants from the array to configure the correct driver:
['A4988', 'A5984', 'DRV8825', 'LV8729', 'L6470', 'TB6560', 'TB6600', 'TMC2100', 'TMC2130', 'TMC2130_STANDALONE', '...
Many of the motors that look like stepper motors in laser printers are actually three-phase brush-less DC motors. These look like stepper motors, but are intended to be used differently, controlled differently, and serve a different function. Like stepper motors, they have a permanent magnet rotor surrounded by coils of wire.
They typically are used in ...
Yes you can mix different drivers, including the TMC drivers (e.g. using for X and Y only).
How you do that is described in this instructable.
Please do note that, from observations, the 8-bit based Arduino boards and shields such as the RAMPS are becoming more or less obsolete; the 32-bit based controller boards are becoming mainstream. Such boards have a ...
To Protect, or Not to Protect
From the web site you reference:
The SilentStepStick Protector is an add-on module for StepStick and
Pololu A4988 compatible stepper motor drivers. The board provides
flyback diodes (freewheeling diodes) for the motor outputs, so that
they are also protected against induction voltages in the unpowered
state of the ...
Obviously, your extrusion process is troubled by a lot of pressure. This can be seen from the extensive experiment you conducted with PLA extrusion at different temperatures. Please do note that 230 °C is considered pretty high for PLA! Usually it should be in the range of 185 - 205 °C:
In general, PLA filament settings have an optimal printing ...
As far as I can see on the attached videos your homing movement is reversed.
as per Marlin, the homing for X shall move towards the left side and for Y to the back of the printer.
That could occur when: cable connectors to stepper motors are reversed, or the motor is assembled the other way (you can set reverse direction in Marlin)
The other issue is steps/...
I have fixed it. I tried uploading the bugfix version of Marlin and no luck. Then I noticed a loose jumper wire that connected the driver to the board and when re-installing it I noticed it didn't grip the pin that strongly and could be easily pulled off so I switched the wire and everything works now. Turns out that even jumper wires can have a bad ...
If an extra few degrees of heating the hot end does not work, you could try to increase the amount of Ampere through the steppers. Increasing the current will increase the torque of the stepper.
The question is what your current Vref of your extruder stepper driver is. To get a maximum current of 1 Ampere you require a Vref of 0.4 V if you have genuine ...
Even though you may have acceptable extrusion, any clicking from that area of your printer is likely to be a missed step on the extruder motor. This may be insignificant with respect to print quality, but as you suggest, it is an irritation.
If you are confident that your nozzle is clean of debris (which is likely), you could consider to raise the nozzle ...
Let's see what we have:
The fuse in the driver is set to keep up the loads that the driver can safely handle.
The NEMA 17 results in a blown out fuse
The problem lies not in the driver, but the NEMA 17 motor or the wires to it and can be of several ways:
The motor has a short and is defective.
The motor is not rated to the driver ...
If the fuse blows - there is a reason for that, so changing it for a higher rating without understanding the source of the problem is:
Asking for fire!!!
Every stepper has its own internal resistance (and as we have a magnetic field it is called a reluctance), that is limiting the max current, but this equation needs to take U given to the motor.
If the motors are in parallel, then setting it at 0.4V means each motor will only get a quarter of the current a single motor would get at 0.8V. If you set it to 0.8V each motor will get half. I think 0.8V (same as for the other motors) would be an appropriate setting. Stepper drivers are constant-current, not constant-voltage.
Are the steps/mm for your Z-...
I'm not sure I know exactly what is wrong or what steps you've taken so far, but it seems like your extruder motor is broken and you've narrowed the problem down to electronics.
If so, replacing the Arduino, motor, and driver leaves only the Ultimaker PCB as the source of the problem. I would suggest ordering another - but not until you've contacted ...
You have to know:
distance between belt teeth (usually 2mm)
number of teeth on pulley
motor step angle 1.8 deg?
microstepping count, probably 16?
Then you can enter all these numbers info the calculator here:
Usually if they get too hot you have to adjust the amperage by turning the little potentiometer on the A4988 (turn left until you can move the motor by hand, turn right until you cant, add a little bit like 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn).
I used a different stepstick RAMPS card and Mega, they worked perfectly.
it is not completely clear, so:
the A4988 ...
That depends on how much noise you have on your motor power supply ground. You definitely want the 100 µF capacitor to have a good high frequency response. Motors turning on and off can be noisy, and that noise can cause false clock signals in your logic circuitry if you tie the grounds together.
(This is more of an electronics.stackexchange.com question btw).
It is not only ok, it is absolutely necessary. The systems won't operate correctly unless all the gnds are tied together. Since this is a stepper motor, you don't have to worry about noise getting back onto the power supply lines for the logic supply, since the stepper board has a decoupling ...
From A4988 Stepper Motor Driver Carrier, the rear of the breakout board, is identical to yours:
Note the two square pads for the GND, whereas the others are round. Now looking at the top side:
and note the position of the square GND pins/pads, in relation to the trim pot.
Now look at this hi-res photo of a populated MKS board
Again, looking at the ...
It is completely normal for a stepper motor to get hot. Taking this datasheet for example, specifies a 80 °C temperature rise. That is, in an room that is 25 °C ambient temperature, the motors would get up to 105 °C.
To prevent the motors from getting as hot you could further reduce the operating current, but likely the temperature they're running at is ...
Ok, thanks everyone for at least taking time to read or thinking about this.
The Problem is an absolute mess and there are two possible reasons:
-> the octoprint eeprom editor is broken
-> the ATMega2560's eeprom is broken. as far as i know companies buy used atmegas to cheapen the price and the >100k writes on my chip has been reached
I will try to ...
So I feel that I solved the problem thanks to a few sources. Thanks to 0scar for his quick response and help.
The problem was two fold. Mechanical problem causing blockage and slicer setting causing ripple.
The PTFE tube wasn't pushed all the way in as far as it could go causing too much pressure in the hotend. This seems to be a really common problem with ...
I solved this problem by change EEPROM value to "2" in Configuration.h:
#define EEPROM_MODE 2
Now ZAXIS_STEPS_PER_MM value load from firmware, not EEPROM.
#define EEPROM_MODE 0
— does not result in my case.
One thing or another limits (controls) the flow form the nozzle. in ideal operating conditions, the molten/softened plastic is kept in a small pool in the nozzle, without high pressure, and responsive to pressure by flowing from the nozzle. The plastic must be viscous and self-adhering enough that gravity and residual pressure on the melt will not be ...
Kinda, sort of, but not really. I'll look at the A4988 (datasheet).
The motor pins are connected by diodes to ground and Vbb (the motor suppply voltage). Essentially, they act as a bridge rectifier making any back EMF or inductive spikes appear (rectified) on Vbb. If you were to suddenly power down the driver this could cause a rather large spike on Vbb.
I finally solved it by manually adjusting the steps per unit in the printer firmware.
The process is easy just move the extruder to one position and draw two marks, one at the extruder position and another one 10 cm in the X axis from the extruder position then with Repetier or with the the printer controls move the X axis 100 mm, if the extruder stops ...