I have a bunch of solutions to this problem but I'm always looking for additional ideas. I usually start by slicing as much as possible off with a hobby knife. The more than can be removed before sanding the better.
For big prints I like big generic sandpaper sheets from the hardware store. Starting with the highest grit and moving down. Make sure you're ...
The best way to get rid of them is to change the design of the printed object to make them unnecessary.
Instead of printing the one part with support material, the piece can be split into two or more parts which can be printed without support material and assembled after the printing.
Given that this is not always fully possible, a convenient way to get ...
I use nail files. They're easy to get, cheap and have different grits on either side. You can lay them flat or hold them in your hand and they have some stability making it fairly easy to sand something that is or should become flat.
Plus, you can fix any nails you damage while removing support structures.
I use normal wet/dry sandpaper and it works just fine. If I remember correctly, I usually start with 220 and then work my way up to 400, 600, and 800.
There are also foam or rubber sanding pads available that work really well when you're sanding something organically shaped.
The grits you start and finish with will depend on how rough your surface is.
I've had great success printing with HIPS (high-impact polystyrene) as a support for both PLA and ABS. Most sites recommend it for use with ABS because the materials melt at similar temperatures and work best with heated beds, but I've had good luck using it as a support material with PLA on a bed at 60°C. It doesn't stick as well to PLA as it does to ABS, ...
You could try Meshmixer its free and the supports generated with it are embedded into the 3D model.
Here you can find a reference on Meshmixer supports. Meshmixer is well known for making custom supports for complex 3D models.
A sphere can be put together quarters easily, but those need support in the center. However, there is a slightly different cut is more economic:
Cut a top and bottom "plate" off, print them separately, the lower one "upside down"
Cut the remaining piece into quarters
For more equal printing, maybe even cut them along the equator too and print the lower ...
Print orientation is usually the key to print with a minimum of supports. If you print this part with the sharp point down, you will get some support structures on the outside for overhang support to prevent it from tipping over, but no support on the inside.
PETG works as support material for PLA, see video
In theory, PLA printed on top of PETG will be fine because PETG softens and gets sticky at higher temperatures.
Printing PETG support on top of PLA may cause remelting of PLA, but if PETG is kept quite cold (220 °C) the issue will likely be minor. As shown in the video, it ...
For running an analysis on FDM printed parts Solidworks Sim would be extremely difficult to use. It's not really designed for running this type of analysis and is at the fairly low end of FEA analysis packages. An FDM analysis should be treated almost like a composite structure and you'd have better luck running something like ANSYS, or NASTRAN but those are ...
The basic answer to your question is to create better bridging or overhangs on your machine. Bridging is when you are printing between two solid pieces (like a bridge). Overhangs occur when printing off of a single solid piece and coming back. Most slicing engines allow extra settings for speed, fan power, etc for these parameters, just refer to this ...
I know many Slic3r users - myself included - add support material to the model itself before importing it into Slic3r.
I personally favour MeshMixer for support generation, as the supports are much more predictable and easily removable. In complicated cases I also add supports in my CAD software.
Although a not free, the support generation in Simplify3D ...
Increasing the distance between the support/raft and the print should allow for easier removal. Some slicers (such as Slic3r) have settings for 0.0 mm spacing for water dissoluble supports, and 0.2 mm for regular plastic supports.
Changing the upper surface of the support also can help. Some slicers will leave the support as lines all the way to contact ...
There are some software tools that let you manually design support structures so you can target the areas that need them, and avoid others.
For example, Meshmixer can be used to add supports into your STL. I believe you still use a separate slicer.
Some slicers also have the ability to manually add support. I have found that CraftWare and Simplify3D have ...
There's no way to do this in GrabCAD Print alone, but you can achieve it using Insight, which you can reach from the Apps menu in Print. The steps are as follows:
Open your STL file in Insight.
Go to Modelers → Setup… and set the printer, layer height, and material to the same as in Print. If you get these wrong, you won't find out until you get to the end ...
Print/material specific settings
If you are printing too hot with too less distance, the support just fuses to the print object. Extra cooling, lower print temperature and support distance should be in balance to create easy to remove support structures with respect to an acceptable print object surface. If temperature and cooling cannot be balanced to ...
Cura has some settings for the support structure which may help. Somewhere in the full Preferences menu is a setting for "gap at top" or equivalent wording. If you increase that gap slightly, the support material will be less strongly bonded to the part. Be careful, since a huge gap could lead to bridging problems.
I finally found out two causes:
The 3D printer has default settings for ABS, and since there is no printer bed settings in ReplicatorG, the bed temperature was set to 110 °C instead of 60°C. I fixed the setting directly on the printer itself.
It seems that one side of the printer bed was little closer to the nozzle than other sides (relatively to ...
I have tried to print the piece upside-down with the cave part facing down and it worked.
Since the printer prints upside down, positioning the cave part facing up creates a suction-cup effect on the printer display that makes the whole structure stick to the lcd and detach from the supporting structure, thus making the print fail.
I use diagonal cutters and a pair of mini pliers.
I print with Simplify3d and the support structures are remarkably easy to remove, I find giving a quick pull pops most off. The diagonal cutters get rid of any small beads leftover.
Another method that you could try is an acetone vapor bath.
(All credit to them, by the way)
Just so you know, this is a very risky method, but the outcome is very nice. Remember that I warned you... And please, please watch cautionary videos and practice extreme caution. I cannot stress that enough.
All you have to do is get a heating pad (or anything ...
Have you considered to use a service to have the part printed? You can print almost anything in one "pass" using selective laser sintering, typically done in nylon. I am currently un-boxing an SLS printer, so I cannot currently offer to print it, but the capabilities of SLS are substantial for parts of this nature. I've read of entire planetary gearboxes ...
Sometimes a "roof" can be accomplished using the bridging feature of the printer. Depending on your slicer and on your printer's capabilities, the filament can extend from one edge of a structure to another without using support. The slicer will "recognize" the endpoints and the distance between and speed up the travel and possibly increase the fan cooling, ...
I found this in the fdrmprinter.def.json which you could might make a copy of and use instead for the -j option:
welcome to 3DPrinting.
To make this easier to talk about, let me call the surface on which you want to print the letters the "tabletop".
Looking at your picture, let me guess that you would print the object with the tabletop down. Then everything prints naturally, with no bridging and no overhangs.
You want to put text on the tabletop. This could be ...
You need to put a check mark to enable supports in Slic3r as you cannot print in mid-air.
This option is found under "Print settings" with header name "Support settings". Please look at the Slic3r manual for more options.
Ultimaker Cura print bed size sizes (shrinks) when you enable skirt, brim or raft build adhesion options. Try to print without build plate adhesion option if you want to push printing to the limits of the build plate. Furthermore, you mention the use of PVA, using 2 cores, the priming print tower also needs space to be printed, this can be also limiting your ...
You've not stated this, but one must presume that you have a dual or multi-material extruder equipped printer.
Because PVA dissolves in water, the supports will be eroded on contact when the part is immersed. As the PVA dissolves, it increases the concentration of PVA in the water, but only slightly. You would have to agitate the water, change it if you ...
If either side of the red ring can have a chamfer to meet the cylinder, add the chamfer and print with the chamfer side down.
If both sides of the red ring must be perpendicular to the axis of
the cylinder, can you print the cylinder lying on its side? You
might get good enough print quality, especially if printing with
thinner layers toward ...
You'll notice in the screen capture that there is an icon marked "supports." This is precisely the solution required. When selected, the software should construct a series of vertical pillars in the locations required to properly print the horizontal portion of the knife blade.
It's common for Thingiverse models to have a notation Supports (yes/no) to ...