9

You are probably right, I have a Tarantula as well, and this happened many times to me. The reason is mostly because the hotend fan gets too hot, stops working, then, the filament in the aluminium heat sink melts and sticks the filament inside the PTFE tube. Then, on the retraction, the PTFE is pulled into the gears just like on your picture. Also, the ...


5

In answer to (doesn't have to the issue of the OP, but as a reaction for other readers): Note: this has nothing to do with bed leveling. The bed is level, the printer has a BLTouch. Having a BLTouch doesn't imply the bed is level! The bed is level when the nozzle moves in the same plane parallel to the bed, the bed shape is compensated for by the BLTouch, ...


5

The soldering in the Tevo components is very low quality as I replaced/resoldered most of the end-stops. As the gantry goes down - please ensure that the cable is not pulled over (no contact) and there is contact on the edge of the acrylic and the end-stop, also the small acrylic switch holder could bend/slip a bit. Finally, the sensor connection to the ...


5

1 PID Tune Changing the thermosensor or the heater cartridge is a big change in the system: each of these items has internal errors differing them from each other item. If your thermosensor has a different standard resistance by a small way than the one before, if the resistance of the cartridge is different, then the chip gets readings it does not expect. ...


4

I'm not familiar with your particular model, so this may not be directly applicable. For many printer models, a swing thru thingiverse.com will find you a replacement z-stop switch mount that uses a threaded screw to set the z-height at which the microswitch fires. It may well be that you simply need to offset that height by a few mm to get your first ...


4

Printing speed is dependent by the firmware and physical properties of your printer. Slicers typically compute the expected time by assuming the printer will execute exactly what it is instructed to do, but a printer is a real object, with mass and momentum, and stepper motors that have an upper limit for their power output and rotation speed. So for ...


3

I'd advise against adjusting the driver's potentiometer without also taking a voltage reading and doing the math to find out what current is being driven through the stepper. Having the current too high can damage your driver or stepper. But having the current too low can cause that clicking as the stepper internally skips. The filament may also be too cold,...


3

Another posting already discusses how you can change the pins to use spare stepper controllers for broken controllers by changing the pin layout. Assuming you are using a RAMPS board and using Marlin firmware, you should look at the pins_RAMPS.h file. This file requires changes to address E1 to E0 and vice versa, please edit the file so that: #define ...


3

First, Ultimaker Cura estimated printing times are not necessarily accurate for non Ultimaker printers. For Ultimaker printers this is perfectly tuned, Cura estimates the printing times from experience for the UM3E correctly. Please look into question "How to determine real printing speed (tarantula/cura)?" which is relevant to this question and has an ...


2

I haven't tried it, but would assume you could put a multimeter (set to VDC) onto the two connections for the heater pins and check the voltage output during what would be the heating period. If there's voltage output, your heating element would be at fault.


2

Issue is solved! Root cause was a broken thermistor circuit at board and broken thermistor. I disconnected all wires and power, measured board and thermistors resistance: E0 = ~120 Ω, (E1 and Bed) = ~700 Ω. I swapped pins for TEMP_0_PIN and TEMP_1_PIN within Marlin for Tevo firmware at pins_RAMPS.h as described in answer on question Change hotend thermistor ...


2

I have the same kind of issues I'm also using Sunlu white filament 210 °C and bed at 60 °C on a CR-10S also original BLtouch v3.1 On some parts of the bed it's okay but in the middle and some corners it's too high and doesn't stick (really annoying). I bought the BLtouch to avoid this kind of issues. I have printed many things with no ...


1

The first thing that jumps out to me is where the frame is pushing on the switch. It looks to be directly over the switch actuator and not at the end of the little metal switch arm. This will make the gap from switch activation point to hard stop and bottoming out the switch really small. Any software delay after endstop detection or flex in the system may ...


1

The MKS Base v1.2 is basically an Arduino MEGA2560 and a RAMPS1.4 on a single board. You can use the RAMPS pin designation. Note that the endstop to origin distances is explained in question How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset). In Jims Marlin fork you can find this at: #define X_MIN_POS 0 - XTRA_BED_LEFT and #define ...


1

The first extruder unit appears to have an error the firmware can't detect, which is why TEVO thinks the issue with that extruder is the heat sensor. If the sensor's reading hot relative to actual temp, the block will be too cool to reliably extrude, while the printer won't think anything's wrong and won't try to heat the block more. However, I'm surprised ...


1

An NPN sensor is wired differently from a PNP sensor. The signal wire is the black wire, blue is the ground wire. According to this posting, Don’t trust the internet (and how to add an Inductive Proximity Sensor to your 3D printer the proper and easiest way, you need to insert a 6.8 kΩ resistor in between the black and the blue wire, I quote: ......


1

Assuming line 585 of Configuration.h looks like this // Almost all printers will be using one per axis. Probes will use one or more of the // extra connectors. Leave undefined any used for non-endstop and non-probe purposes. #define USE_XMIN_PLUG #define USE_YMIN_PLUG #define USE_ZMIN_PLUG //#define USE_XMAX_PLUG //#define USE_YMAX_PLUG //#define ...


1

At first it was unclear from where the snippet you posted is taken from as it was not stated in the question (this has now been addressed by a moderator edit). Depending on the value of EXTRUDER_USE_E1 (and where and how it is set) the underlying code of the if statement will be carried out. Albeit said, swapping lines will not work, if you want to use the ...


1

I wanted to expand on the great comment by 0scar and explain what's the fastest way to change pins. I know this is an older topic, but for the sake of people looking for an answer, I figured I add this. First of all it's easiest to change the pins in the pins file for your specific board by simply renaming E0 to E1 and vice versa. This is much simpler than ...


1

I use a Anet A8 which has a system acceleration and jerk of 400 and 20 When i slice with Cura, then I use a gcode without acceleration control, because the printer does this by its own and a combination with the gcode acceleration/jerk control gets me some strange behavior (e.g. sometimes some ultra slow movement in fine detail sections, or random nearly ...


1

Getting that first layer to stick is sometimes pretty hard, you just need to find a good combination of settings. Clearly your filament does not stick too well as the brim comes off after been laid down after a while. Parameters that affect adhesion are: Bed temperature; a temperature close to the glass temperature is favorable as the filament is soft at ...


1

By adjusting/calibration of the center of the bed you will automatically find the correct offset values. This is explained in detail in this answer to the question How to center my prints on the build platform?.


1

Answer for "2)": The default firmware seems to be Repetier. It also includes Bed leveling (see documentation): https://www.repetier.com/documentation/repetier-firmware/z-probing/ Marlin includes the Auto Bed Leveling feature too. You need to enable it by editing the Configuration.h file. Bed size settings are there aswell. "stylesuxx" made a video on how ...


1

From your configuration.h file you see that (in line 643): #define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS is not commented out, there is no // in front, so this means that manual homing with accompanying coordinates is enabled. This should not be enabled, as this setting is used by Delta printers only. This may cause the problems you experience as there may be some sort ...


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