13 votes
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First 3 mm prints poorly, then fine after that

After much trial and error, I think I finally figured out the solution. Even though I could get better prints by tweaking with the temperatures, I could never totally eliminate the problem. The ...
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10 votes
Accepted

SLA prints not sticking to build plate

Prints could end up on tray for couple of reasons. Vacuum force on early layers - Usually you should lose pieces on the center of platform Put holes or channels on platform Very slow speed on early ...
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  • 461
9 votes
Accepted

Test print coming out spongy

It turned out I had the wrong filament size set in Ultimaker Cura. Fixing this resolved the issue.
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8 votes

Is this banding?

Banding usually refers to Z banding and manifests itself in a wavy/non-straight wall in Z direction: This sort of banding is related to mechanical or design issues of the printer (lead screw (nuts), ...
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  • 30.6k
8 votes

First 3 mm prints poorly, then fine after that

I had the exact same problem as you. And after trying all of your ideas (Thanks so much for the amound of information!!!), I discovered that in my case, the problem was actually the printer skipping a ...
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  • 81
8 votes
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After some time stepper motor is hot

The second motor is hot. And the third is very hot. I can not even touch it. This is to some degree, completely normal and expected. From the datasheet for a typical NEMA 17 stepper, the rated ...
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7 votes

Printer fails to print a cube

There are multiple issues that cause this result. First, your nozzle is to far from the bed. This can be seen by the curly deposited filament on the build plate (I guess that is the brim or the skirt)...
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  • 30.6k
7 votes
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What to do if filament spool won't fit in 3D printer

A spool does not need to be inside a printer. Or on. Or even next to. My Ender 3 pulls his filament in from the rack above it, my TronXY X1 pulls it from about 80 cm to the left of it, where it hangs ...
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  • 19.4k
6 votes
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Unknown issue affecting print quality

A very helpful page for troubleshooting common errors is: Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide - Lines on the Side of Print It seems like your problem is inconsistent extrusion or temperature ...
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  • 522
6 votes
Accepted

What triggers Marlin's "Click to resume..."?

To answer your question directly, this action (Click to resume...) is triggered by a buffer overflow of the Marlin firmware that is caused by the repetitive sending ...
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  • 30.6k
6 votes

Getting E1 Thermal Runaway errors, even after replacing the heating element on Tevo Tarantula

1 PID Tune Changing the thermosensor or the heater cartridge is a big change in the system: each of these items has internal errors differing them from each other item. If your thermosensor has a ...
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  • 19.4k
6 votes
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Bed too close to nozzle?

No, the bed does not look too close to the nozzle, it could well be that it is too far from the nozzle. However, the brim looks okay, but the method you follow is questionable. Using a feeler gauge ...
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  • 30.6k
6 votes

Printer stops printing at the same spot for every model

This behavior can be explained by a truncated gcode file - the printer gets to the end of all that's there of the file, and considers it done. A truncated file can be a symptom of corrupt storage ...
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5 votes

Very old 3D Printer, which brand or type is this?

Here are some further details on: The control board, and; The stepper motors Control board The electronics board has this marking: ...
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  • 5,717
5 votes

Troubleshooting filament slip on MakerBot 5

Oh interesting. By slips, I take it you mean that the raw filament slips, not the print slips. This will happen for a few reasons. First the tooth gear that grabs the plastic is either: Worn out Out ...
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  • 3,003
5 votes
Accepted

Build plate cools during print

Check your slicer settings. Some slicers allow the temperature to change at a specified layer. You may have programmed the slic3r to turn off the bed after the first (or maybe zeroth) layer. You ...
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  • 4,418
5 votes
Accepted

Screeching Noise when moving the Z-Axis Down

I had this same problem. I attributed it to the linear bearings which ride on the 8mm travel rods. I did two things which ultimately eliminated the issue (since I did both at the same time, I'm not ...
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5 votes

First 3 mm prints poorly, then fine after that

I had this problem as well, the problem is not too much give on the Z axis, it's that there is not enough give, so loosen the Z-axis wheels on both sides till you can freely move one of the wheels ...
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  • 51
5 votes
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Is this hot end salvageable?

Yes I had a somewhat similar clog once, and I could fix it back up. However, it is a lot of work. Hobbyist Way Step 1: heat As long as the heater cartridge is still ok, just fire up the printer, move ...
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  • 19.4k
5 votes

Slicer settings for easy support material removal

Cura has some settings for the support structure which may help. Somewhere in the full Preferences menu is a setting for "gap at top" or equivalent wording. If you increase that gap slightly, the ...
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5 votes
Accepted

Anet A8 stops printing

Special characters like Ä Ö or Ü in the stl-filename resulted in Ultimaker Cura creating a ...
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  • 658
5 votes
Accepted

Prusa i3 Mk3 - Top layer wrinkles (not on buildplate)

Waves in printed surfaces with FFF are observed at either the bottom layer (common) or the top layer (less common). Waves in bottom layer Rippling/wave generation/wrinkling is a common problem for ...
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  • 30.6k
5 votes
Accepted

Why is my 3D printer not extruding properly?

Underextrusion and clogs can also be caused by insufficient temperature in the hot end. You've not reference your temperatures, so consider to use a test model and print at different temperatures. Too ...
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  • 9,847
5 votes

Thermal runaway on extruder hotend

If a temperature of (rounded) 201 °C is triggering TRP, then one of three things is the culprit: The TRP Hysteresis is awfully trigger happy. See What is Thermal Runaway Protection? Your Heater ...
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  • 19.4k
5 votes
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Wavy lines on 1st layer only

You have a too thick layer: to get straight lines, the plastic has to be squished together to some degree as it is pushed out of the nozzle. The result is a shape similar to a circle with the top and ...
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  • 19.4k
5 votes
Accepted

Hotend doesn't maintain temperature

Safety First Let's look at the graphs. First: you should swap firmware for one that has Thermal Runaway, as, as it is, running about 15 minutes with 28 K less than the printer is ordered to work at is ...
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  • 19.4k
5 votes
Accepted

My printer is making mistakes on the right half of the print, but not the left

I found the problem. This model of printer Monoprice Select v2 has bed warping issues so when the bed heated up it would warp severely. I bought a glass bed and all my problems were solved.
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5 votes

All-metal hot-end Creality Ender 3 Pro jamming issues

The so-called all-metal hotends are sold as upgrades to the lined hotend versions. Actually, they are not. These are different type of hotends that can be used printing at higher temperatures. However,...
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  • 30.6k
5 votes
Accepted

3D Printed Sphere, How to Remove Roughness

While Trish is completely right that the roughness can't be completely eliminated (you can't print a perfect spherical surface with discrete layers), the situation can be improved dramatically. The ...
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4 votes

Troubleshooting filament slip on MakerBot 5

I posted an edit to the top answer in hopes that it will get changed for anyone looking at this post in the future but in case it gets rejected here is the actual issue and fix. If you just want the ...
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