I found the answer myself just after posting - I'm posting it because it might be helpful to other Cura novices.
There is a setting for this, it's just that it's not shown by default. In print settings, you have to click on the three lines next to the search box, and select "Show All Settings". Then you can find a setting called "Top/Bottom Pattern". ...
The answer to your question is: "From the application developer itself!".
Below is the explanation how you can (directly) download Ultimaker Cura from the most reputable source: Ultimaker.com
When clicking the link to download of the Cura application download button from the Ultimaker website you are presented with a pop-up GUI ...
There are several things at play that can make a wider line nice to have:
First layer adhesion
Due to some filaments having serious struggle to get the first line or layer stuck to the bed, it can be an easy fix to just increase the line width, generating a bigger Adhesive Force $F_a\propto A(l,w)$, where A is the area covered by the line, and thus simply $A=...
Cura is likely factoring in your skirt. Change the skirt lines to 0 and you might be able to print. Cura also seems to have an in-built build size offset of about 2mm. I can't seem to get rid of it in any way other than to change the build size.
Basically, you print too hot (and fast) without enough cooling. The deformed small pin in your image is a perfect example of depositing new layers onto too hot (not cooled down enough) prior layers.
You can easily solve this by printing two identical parts spaced apart from each other. This allows the layers to cool before the next is deposited.
The phenomenon you experience is called under-extrusion. Under-extrusion is the effect of extruding lesser filament than required for the print. The result of under-extrusion (depending on the amount of under-extrusion) can be described as spongy prints, gaps in prints/layers, failed prints, etc. As the amount of plastic flow is less than required for the ...
If you use the OctoPrint print manager, you can exclude regions to be printed using the Exclude Region plugin. The description states that it can be used to rescue partially-failed prints:
The intent of this plugin is to provide a means to salvage multi-part prints where one (or more) of the parts has broken loose from the build plate or has otherwise ...
I'm assuming you actually want to build Cura, rather than simply install Cura. If you instead want to install Cura, you can try sudo apt-get install cura-engine
The following instructions were tested on my own Debian 8 (Jessie) distribution; they should be mostly, if not entirely, the same, for Ubuntu. Note that I did not follow the exact steps as described ...
In Cura (and Slic3r), you can 100% customize what the printer does before printing your actual model through custom start/end g-code.
If you navigate to the Start/End-GCode tab in Cura, then select start.gcode, you can see what operations are run before each print begins. Lines prefixed with ; are comments, and does not affect the printing in any way.
You can trick the printer into applying an offset using the G92 command:
First, we move the nozzle to Z=0. Next, through the G92 command, we tell the printer to, from now on, treat the current position as Z=0.1. This effectively applies an offset of -0.1 to the Z-axis, since if we now executed G0 Z0 again, the nozzle would move down 0.1mm.
This is the result of travel moves passing through/over the top surface. The combing setting can prevent this type of move (for walls, infill or top), and z-hop can avoid making any mark during these travels.
Both settings will affect speed. Z-hop will be active on every layer, for example.
I would have to see your design to comment more but why not just change your model with the lid or top that can be either fused on later or attached in some other fashion?
It is possible to turn off the heated bed after a certain layer. It looks like there is a discussion here with the G-code: Can Cura Turn Off a Heated Bed Partway Into a Print?
I would ...
There is an option to directly insert extra commands at a specific Z height, no need to enter them manually.
That said, it is a bad idea to turn off the heated bed while printing, because this will often detach the object from the bed completely (that's kind of the point of having the heated bed in the first place: better adhesion while printing, and easier ...
Shouldn't a 0.4 mm nozzle create a line of plastic 0.4 mm wide
Not necessarily. Due to a phenomenon known as die swell extruding plastic through a 0.4 mm nozzle, the line of plastic that is created is actually slightly wider. Pressure inside the extruder compresses the plastic slightly, and it expands again as it exists the nozzle.
Vase Mode changed the name in some version before 3.5. Now you can achieve this with 2 modes: "Surface Mode" and "Spiralize Outer Contour". To turn it on do this:
Choose the Custom setting menu on the right
click a gear to set up what settings you want to see
Under the header "Special Modes" you find both Surface Mode and Spiralize Outer Contour
set the ...
I don't think this feature was implemented at all with Cura v2.x.
As the developers say on the v2.1 release, "Cura has been completely reengineered".
Finding proper changelog documentation appears to be pretty hard because they have not posted any actual changelogs except the "user friendly viewable" changelogs which only list additions of new features ...
Your nozzle is too far from your bed. The first layer isn't squished down sufficiently, resulting in these gaps. If your first layer looks like this, you should cancel your print and adjust the bed. Alternatively, you can adjust the initial height of the Z-axis in G-code (for instance, G0 Z-0.1 followed by G92 Z0, which should be appended to your start G-...
It's a nozzle size issue. The model contains a lot of details which is really challenging to print with a 0.4 mm nozzle.
A big nozzle is just not able to print such fine details. You should switch to 0.25 mm or 0.15 mm. Just try to set a smaller nozzle in your slicer.
There is a nice article on Prusa's blog showing the difference in printing ...
Self intersecting meshes are considered dirty, yes. The reason you haven't had trouble before is probably that the software you were using was cleaning your mesh for you, behind the scenes.
Generally speaking, these meshes can be cleaned without too much trouble by software like netfabb (https://www.netfabb.com/) which has a nice free version that I use for ...
The latest version of Ultimaker Cura can do that (version 3.6).
I have built models made of different material in the same model.
How to do this is:
Select your CUBE and select the icon "Per Model Setting" in left side menu.
choice "Normal model", select the following settings: Top/bottom thickness, wall thickness and infill percentage
Very Important: all ...
Cura has a setting called Combing that is enabled by default. This stops the printer from retracting if the travel is contained within the walls. It does this to speed up the print but you get oozing during the travel since the plastic is still in the melt zone. You can change this setting to no skin which will stop it from combing on the skin layers or turn ...
I suggest upgrading to Cura 3, as you are working with a version 1.5.
If you print PLA, you print WAY too hot (190-200 °C Nozzle, 60 °C Bed), if it is ABS, knock down the temperature a little.
Check for a clogged nozzle.
Let's put the parts one by one:
Wait for bed temperature being at 30 °C: M190 R30
Play Bleep for 1/5th of a second: M300 S440 P200
Wait for 1/5th of a second: G4 P200
M300 S440 P200
M300 S440 P200
M300 S440 P200
M300 S440 P200
Just for 0scar:
M300 S1396.91 P400 ;f7
M300 S1661.22 P600 ;...
Formally, G0 is a rapid move and G1 is a coordinated move. A G1 will cause the printhead to move in a straight line from the begin to the end position, whereas a G0 allows the printhead to move in any curve, so long as it ends up in the target position. Because of acceleration and deceleration constraints, it can sometimes be faster to move in a curve rather ...
In my experience a print speed of 50-70mm/s is ideal. Even if you set the speed to 150mm/s the print head still changes directions often and rarely will have enough time to accelerate from 0->150 before changing direction again.
Some more effective ways of speeding up prints is to adjust
Infill percentage (15-25% for regular prints, more if ...
For Cura 3.1(?)+:
Install the plugin: Menu / Plugins / Browse Plugins... / scroll to "Z Offset plugin" <-- Install
Configure the setting: Printer Profile / Print Setup / Build Plate Adhesion / Z Offset
set positive value for nozzle liftup
set negative value to bring nozzle lower for first layer (like -0.1 for your wanted scenario)