7
votes
Accepted
Patterned Under-Extrusion on Ender 3 Pro
It turns out the extruder was slipping, but not due to a nozzle or Bowden tube pressure issue. The extruder arm (?) that holds the passive wheel (as opposed to the drive gear) was cracked, so the ...
4
votes
Accepted
PET-G under-extrusion after changing the nozzle to a 1.2 mm d. one (Prusa i3 mk3s and PrusaSlicer v2.0)
Piecing this answer together from the comments on OP's post.
Myself and R.. noted that a layer height of 0.35 mm, nozzle width of 1.2 mm, and a fairly high feedrate (200 % according to ...
4
votes
Ender 3 power problems, under-extrusion missing steps
This is a common issue, there are a number of problems that could cause an extruder motor on the Ender 3 to skip steps besides the stepper needing an increase in current. If the extruder motor is ...
4
votes
Patterned Under-Extrusion on Ender 3 Pro
This is a big red flag and severely wrong:
93 had to be changed to 150 steps/mm
It can be reasonable to tune steps per mm by a few percent, but needing an increase of more than 50% versus the ...
4
votes
Accepted
Extra external layer (shell) on my first prints
If you do some quick calculations it appears that this is caused by under-extrusion.
Comparing the extruded volume to the calculated volume for the deposition there is a mismatch of about 2.6. This ...
3
votes
Ender 3 underextrusion
The helical exterior is an indicator of a filament diameter mismatch or volumetric mode enabled for linear commands
From ref:
Then you probably enabled volumetric extrusion by accident.
On ...
3
votes
Accepted
Print failing at random, resulting in a "hairy" mess
After I finally had the time to disassemble the extruder and I found a possible culprit - which did solve the issue for some time.
As you can see on the pictures the heater block leaked and this lead ...
3
votes
Ender 3 under extrusion
OK, I have my Ender 3 back to printing nice looking objects. It turns out at some point since the original bad E-stepper I must have pushed the "load settings" menu item. I set my E steps to 98 from ...
3
votes
3D print appears to print very weak walls in long print
What you refer to as weak walls in fact are under-extruded walls. This can be caused by multiple sources, but, since the print recovers this most probably is caused by filament that is entangled on ...
3
votes
Accepted
Can't print anything! Is this heat creep? (Detailed explanation & Photo)
This sounds like nothing but a bed leveling (distance from nozzle to bed) problem, though you may have introduced other problems disassembling the hotend. It's normal to have material oozing and ...
3
votes
Inconsistent E-step calibration test results
Oops. I had replaced the tension arm, spring, and hob gear before calibrating. Turns out I attached the gear too low, so it wasn't pushing the filament through.
Adjusted the gear, and calibration ...
3
votes
Ender 3 Pro: Flow rate drops after time
If the feeder gear has worn out, the feeder gear doesn't grip the filament, and hence slips. You would then need to compensate for a larger extrusion length, as you encountered, by e.g. bumping up the ...
3
votes
Under-extrusion halfway into print - Dremel 3D45 -PETG
That's not under extrusion
That is the seam, and technically it is over extruding around it. You will find that if you turn the item, you have such a spot on every layer, actually with an inner and ...
3
votes
Accepted
What could be the reason of under extrusion on some areas?
The most likely cause is that your bed just isn't flat. At least as I understand it, delta calibration is not mesh leveling, and is not there to correct for a non-flat bed, just for skew from the bed ...
2
votes
Anet A8 inconsistent filament flow
The skirt looks ok, which tends to rule out the most extreme flow or blockage issues. However, skirt/bottom layer can be over-squashed so not ideal for calibration.
I assume this is intended to be a ...
2
votes
Wanhao i3 stops printing after about 40 minutes
Time to check things that usually don't need checking. At this point I would check the power split.
Check the power supply voltage (+12V or maybe +24V, I don't know the printer) at the controller ...
2
votes
Problems with under extrusion and clogs on CR-10
Turns out the filament was the problem, I tried printing a model with a high quality sample PLA filament I had and it printed perfectly; one of the cleanest prints I've had. Never skimp on filament.
2
votes
Partial underextrusion in walls
Localized underextrusion usually means you're oozing material somewhere it wasn't supposed to go. Since you have Marlin 2.0, linear advance might help solve that, and in general right retraction ...
2
votes
Top layers failing/underextruding on Creality CR-10
If you decrease layer thickness, you should increase bottom and top layer amount, or set it to a fixed shell thickness. The thinner the layers the more difficult to span over the infill (there is much ...
2
votes
Accepted
Weird temperature graph and thermal runaway protection triggered
Periodic temperature irregularities, such as cycling between a higher temperature and lower temperature slowly enough that it spends at least a layer or two at a different temperature than other ...
2
votes
Printer extrudes too little filament at beginning and end of extrusion
Check your retraction settings.. It's either too far or one of your priming/wipe settings is off, some slicers call it priming or extra restart distance.
Your linear advance "k" might be set wrong ...
2
votes
Creality CR-10 problems with extrusion while printing
Without images of the problem it is difficult to diagnose, but, the described symptoms sounds as if the nozzle is too close to the bed. If the nozzle is too close to the bed, and the extruder not ...
2
votes
First 3D print made up of diagonal strands
Based on your comment to the comment of 0scar:
When I go to Fillament, I get: E in mm3: On; Fil. Dia. 1.750
That's almost surely the problem. Unless the model was sliced for "E in mm3", this ...
2
votes
Direct vs Bowden Extrusion when printing in temperature fluctuating environment
I don't think your temperature based explanation makes sense. This looks to me just like a first layer smashed against the bed, possibly too much due to nozzle being too low, followed by ...
2
votes
Ender 3 V2 under extrusion problems
This is some kind of filament stuck in the hotend tube problem. Just like "heat creep" as mentioned above. PTFE pipes should be checked, all parts should be carefully cleaned. I also add ...
2
votes
Ender 3 extrusion not working properly
200°C is way too cold for printing PETG, especially with the Ender 3's weak extruder (ungeared, single flat hob with minimal contact with the filament) that already struggles with PETG. Probably it ...
2
votes
Accepted
Ender 3 v2 layer skips
This is a known issue with the v4.2.2 mainboard relating to overheating. Continued overheating will eventually result in the extruder controller on the mainboard going bad.
Solution: Mainboard change ...
2
votes
Evenly spaced bulges and one spot of localized underextrusion
The horizontal bands are 5mm apart, which is a common pitch for the screws often used for the Z axis.
I would look for something that binds, moves, slips, or touches once per screw revolution. The ...
2
votes
Under-extrusion halfway into print - Dremel 3D45 -PETG
"Prime Amount" sounds like "extra prime on unretract", which necessarily deposits a blob of extra material at the location of unretract, including the Z seam. Setting this to zero ...
2
votes
Missing filament at Z seam
Several things to try:
Dry your filament. Wet filament can have trouble resuming after retract due to moisture absorbing all the heat and slowing the melt, and can also drastically increase internal ...
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