4

Piecing this answer together from the comments on OP's post. Myself and R.. noted that a layer height of 0.35 mm, nozzle width of 1.2 mm, and a fairly high feedrate (200 % according to OP, no reference to what 100 % is), is an exceptionally large amount of plastic to try and melt through almost any hotend on the market except possibly the ...


3

OK, I have my Ender 3 back to printing nice looking objects. It turns out at some point since the original bad E-stepper I must have pushed the "load settings" menu item. I set my E steps to 98 from 93. and then did a "save settings". I have no idea why going from 93 to 98.03 increased my extrusion from 40mm to 100mm (trial and error, because the formula ...


3

What you refer to as weak walls in fact are under-extruded walls. This can be caused by multiple sources, but, since the print recovers this most probably is caused by filament that is entangled on the spool (this causes more friction for the extruder and as such less flow, so under-extrusion; like as if the filament is being pulled back). Any other source ...


2

The skirt looks ok, which tends to rule out the most extreme flow or blockage issues. However, skirt/bottom layer can be over-squashed so not ideal for calibration. I assume this is intended to be a 100% layer rather than infill. It looks like you're achieving about 50% infill, which is a good clue. I guessed (and confirmed in comments) that you are set ...


2

Time to check things that usually don't need checking. At this point I would check the power split. Check the power supply voltage (+12V or maybe +24V, I don't know the printer) at the controller before and after the extrusion stops or sputters. Assure that the voltage stays the same. If it drops you have a culprit. While there, also check the +5V. ...


2

Turns out the filament was the problem, I tried printing a model with a high quality sample PLA filament I had and it printed perfectly; one of the cleanest prints I've had. Never skimp on filament.


2

Localized underextrusion usually means you're oozing material somewhere it wasn't supposed to go. Since you have Marlin 2.0, linear advance might help solve that, and in general right retraction amount is important and turning off combing may be needed (combing over infill allows material to ooze). Also there are reported bugs in Marlin 2.0 such as https://...


2

If you decrease layer thickness, you should increase bottom and top layer amount, or set it to a fixed shell thickness. The thinner the layers the more difficult to span over the infill (there is much less filament extruded). You could try extra part cooling, higher percentage infill, reduced hotend temperature and slower top layer printing. But, best ...


2

After I finally had the time to disassemble the extruder and I found a possible culprit - which did solve the issue for some time. As you can see on the pictures the heater block leaked and this lead to some filament dripping off of the side and onto the print. The nozzle then eventually caught these drips and this caused the mess. Here are some tipps for ...


2

Based on your comment to the comment of 0scar: When I go to Fillament, I get: E in mm3: On; Fil. Dia. 1.750 That's almost surely the problem. Unless the model was sliced for "E in mm3", this setting needs to be off. What it does is change how the printer interprets extruder moves in the G-code: rather than in linear mm of filament to move, as volumetric ...


2

The helical exterior is an indicator of a filament diameter mismatch or volumetric mode enabled for linear commands From ref: Then you probably enabled volumetric extrusion by accident. On LCD go to Control Filament Disable Save EEPROM Revert estep cal if applicable. What is it? M200 Its a feature of Marlin firmware ...


1

I have a Prusa i3 pro b, and was having a similar issues. Turns out the spring for the plastic extruder feeder can be too slack. I printed these at 2 mm and put it under the spring and it solved my issue.


1

The grooves (notches, more accurately) are acceptable and indicate that your hobbed gear has a good grip on the filament. Many factors will cause your probably-correct diagnosis of under-extrusion. If you are confident that your extrusion settings are correct, you could have this problem from under-temperature on the nozzle. One method to assess this is to ...


1

This sounds as if you have bought an incorrect heater element, e.g. one for 12 V instead of 24 V. The CR-10 uses 24 V. The 12 V cartridge has a lower resistance, so when powered by 24 V, the current is much higher and therefore also the heating power ($ {(\frac{24}{12})}^2 = 4 $ times higher). For details on the calculation, the this ...


1

This isn't stringing. It's failure to adhere to the previous layer, so tension in the newly extruded material just makes it form a straight line until it bonds to something again. Are you used to printing PETG? You didn't mention fan settings, but having any cooling fan at all will cause failure of layers to bond. Your print speed is borderline for PETG, ...


1

I switched over to PrusaSlic3r and 99% of the issue went away even with copying settings straight over. Maybe Cura/S3D handle internal walls differently?


1

Periodic temperature irregularities, such as cycling between a higher temperature and lower temperature slowly enough that it spends at least a layer or two at a different temperature than other layers has a tendency to be mistaken for z wobble. You can actually intentionally modulate print temperature (at least of PLA) every few layers to great a sort of ...


1

Here's your problem: 1 mm retraction distance -> stringing... If you have stringing, that means that material that was supposed to end up as part of printed lines instead ended up somewhere else, leaving less material (underextrusion) where it was actually wanted. This particular test piece may not exhibit stringing, but it's likely that it ...


1

A filament tangle is one possibility, one alternative is that you are seeing a jam in the extruder. The trigger for a jam might be excessive retraction, heat soak or some other issue with the heat-break. Less likely, you might have an electrical problem which is position dependant. The extrusion-related issues won't necessarily react in an 'obvious' way to ...


1

Have you checked your computers power saving settings, the USB port setting in particular, to see if your computer is turning off the USB port, the hard drive, or some other hardware vital to printing?


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