I am an official Wanhao Distributor
By experience I can recommend you to print with this settings:
Extruder 230 °C
Heated Bed 65 °C
Have a glass surface
Use hairspray over the glass
Continue to enclose the printer or at least put it where there is almost no wind
Print at 45 mm/s
Note that this settings vary a lot depending on humidity and other factors ...
If parts stick together after printing, the positioning or extrusion is not working optimally.
This can be related to various issues:
Positioning of the head is not correct; this could be related to incorrect belt tension, incorrect steps per mm, streched belts.
The extrusion process is not working optimal; this could be related to over-extruding (...
If you change the extruder wheel for a different sized wheel, you need to calibrate the extruder to make sure that if you ask to extrude 100 mm it actually extrudes 100 mm. This answer on the question "How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?" describes how to do that.
It is not required to flash your firmware. The G-code command M92 can be used to ...
This will affect your extrusion rate. The best place to change this would be in your E steps located in the firmware but you can also compensate for this by changing the flow percentage in Cura, a setting of 103% (10.9/10.6) should get you close.
Mine is a shot in the dark, but the fact the overextrusion is so regular let me think it is due to something rotating going around in cycles.
The fact that the pattern changes with the flow parameter make me think the culprit is the stepper motor pushing the filament (as different flow means different number of rotations for the same lenght of printed wall)....
I follow the techniques spelled out in this video on Tom's 3d:
Basics: Cleaning out a clogged nozzle!
Heat up the hot end past the point you normally print at.
Manually (gently) push filament out of the hot end.
Turn off heat & continue applying pressure to the filament, until it quits extruding (it has cooled off).
Set the heat on the ...
I redid the print in order to reply to some questions posed in the answer of @kdtop. The print started but the output was not consistent and sometimes stopped. The temperature is 195°C and sometimes 'drop' to 194°C. First I pushed the new real so that the extruder did not need to pull so much. When this did not solve the problem I changed the temperature to ...
It's very difficult to diagnose 3D printers without physical access to the machine, but here's a few possibilities that come to mind (several of those may contribute together to the problem).
The temperature reading is poorly calibrated or defective
This means that the actual temperature is lower than what displayed. You can verify this hypothesis by ...
I don't know that printer. But Arduino has a feature that a USB connection causes a reset. The Idea is that this helps when doing software update as the Arduino Boot loader will be active for one second after that reset.
This can be disabled, but needs hardware modification.
This problem is most commonly caused by infill speeds which are too high.
Instead of printing lines, the filament is caught on one of the lines of the previous layer, leaves a blob there and only restarts extrusion when it hits the next line. Instead of extruding continuously the filament comes out in blobs at the locations where there's filament on the ...
The Prometheus system is pretty much a Y-coupler and two extruders. So, you need your Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus to have the connection points for two extruders and the axis, which means you need one free, 4 wire connection slot from a stepper driver. So, let's look what kind of board is in there...
This Melzi Hypbrid is the mainboard the Duplicator uses, ...
Try to preheat your printer, the temperature should be above 180°C then push the filament to come out from the nozzle just 4 to 7 mm, then take out the filament from the extruder. With this step the plastic lump will get soft and will release the filament.
Then use the tool to clean the nozzle pushing the residue inside the nozzle.
This is a common problem ...
If the problem occurs most when you are doing the most advance/retract cycles, the problem is likely with your advance/retract settings.
Have you tried cutting each of them in half and executing the same gcode?
This is very likely under extrusion caused by your feeder pressing down too hard onto the filament. If the feeder presses the filament very hard it then gets squished a bit, this is not causing much issues when you're only feeding in one direction as the drive gear is still pulling on fresh filament and shoving the squished part down at a steady rate. BUT ...
It definitely looks like under extrusion.
First thing I would check is the filament feeder to make sure it has
a good grip in the filament.
After that I would do another print to see if the problem is repeatable.
If it doesn't repeat, it may have been
A temporarily clogged nozzle
The filament was undersized in that segment and the filament feeder lost ...
I am using the same printer and stopped trying to upgrade to higher CURA.
To my knowledge the branding of the Wanhao Cura Edition is that this Cura knows the specific firmware of your printer and thus is able to do printer specific tasks like calculating printing times etc.
I assume that copying the settings does only copy the settings and not the ...
Changing the Simplify3D start script to this will change the nozzle purge to the same length as what was on your SD card.
G28 ; home all axes
G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length
G1 Z10 ; lower
G1 E20 F200 ; purge nozzle quickly<---------Change E20 to E3, E is the extrusion length
G1 E10 F60 ; purge nozzle slowly <----------Remove ...
I've had hit and miss success, but nothing I would consider great. I was using Hatchbox ABS with the extruder at 230 °C and the bed at 65 °C and a homemade enclosure.
One thing that did help was making sure the HVAC vents near the printer were closed.
I sawed off about 2 mm from the (bed) screw in the photo so it wouldn't catch on the screws of the Y endstop. It now works as before.
If somebody has a more cerebral solution I will gladly `accept' it.
Unless you are using a calibrated temperature sensor, it is a question what the temperature will be.
Actually it doesn't really matter what the temperature exactly is, you just need to find the sweet spot for your filaments on your machine. With respect to reported temperatures by others, your settings may differ a little, but that does not matter.
The temperature should not go over the MAXTEMP variable set in the firmware, so permanent damage is probably avoided (when temperature doesn't exceed about 250 °C; that is about the max temperature for the PTFE liners in the hotend). In the factory setup, the Wanhao Duplicator i3 is running an instance of Marlin Firmware. In the ...
Please note this is not a full answer, but it does address a problem pointed out in the question.
The linked file does contain some strange information. Although in the comments it is said to use a layer thickness of 0.2 mm, see:
with a first layer being 90% of this size:
it actually does not.
Time to check things that usually don't need checking. At this point I would check the power split.
Check the power supply voltage (+12V or maybe +24V, I don't know the printer) at the controller before and after the extrusion stops or sputters. Assure that the voltage stays the same. If it drops you have a culprit. While there, also check the +5V. ...
Have you checked your computers power saving settings, the USB port setting in particular, to see if your computer is turning off the USB port, the hard drive, or some other hardware vital to printing?
Temperature from thermosensors gets collected as a resistance value that changes with temperature. The chip in your board decides the temperature from this value based on a temperature-resistance table.
If you are using Marlin Firmware, the setting which table is referenced by your machine to get its values is written under the header Thermal Settings ...
My slicer (Cura-lulzbot) has a setting for initial printing temp, and then printing temp after the first few layers. Is it possible that your temp is initially OK, but then drops too low? Does your printer have a readout that shows the current temp? Is the temp still OK when it stops?
It sounds like you are printing a sample cube, so I assume not too ...
Thanks to all the replies. Whilst all of them may be valid in some scenarios, my case seemed to have been a combination of things, that relates to most of the replies here.
I had my spool holder on the side of the machine, and I noticed some friction as the filament feeded over the "arm" on top of the printer into the extruder. I sat and looked at this for ...
I had a similar problem with my prusa i3 variant i built. I found that this issue would decrease in occurance when retraction was disabled however would not completely disappear.
After much experimentation I found this to be a feed issue with the extruder. In other words the filament was not being pushed hard enough to the teeth of the hobbed bolt to have ...
This looks like a heating or retraction issue. I also have a Di3, and I encountered a similar problem a while ago. I have found that leveling the bed very well and making sure the z-axis is aligned fixes most problems with this machine. Re-calibrate your printer and try out a different slicer. This link from the 3D Printer Wiki is very useful.