You need a 2.54 mm pitch (similar pitch to Dupont) female IDC (insulation displacement connectors on a ribbon cable) connector of 2x5P (pins) for the header connectors that have a notch. (for comparison, note that e.g. RAMPS 1.4 has 2x5p dupont headers on the shield for the AUX headers, not the notch type headers)
These connectors are usually crimped ...
This is referred to as a Terminal Block Connector. More specifically this is a 2-position pluggable terminal block connector commonly manufactured by Phoenix Contact and others.
Newark.com Sale Page: Pluggable Terminal Block, 5.08 mm, 2 Positions, 24 AWG, 12 AWG, 2.5 mm², Screw
Larger Picture: 2-Position Terminal Block Connectors
Your wire should be rated for at least the necessary 11 amps which the MK2a heatbed is supposed to take.
You can check this by measuring the resistivity of your wire:
Always test the heatbed wiring for resistance. Remember, at 10A, 0.1Ohms means 1V voltage drop means 10W dissipated by the wiring!
as taken from http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?392,...
The power supply that you posted is 12v 360w. This means that (in the USA with 120v power), it will draw 3 amps at 120v. Your switch is rated for 10A at 250V so it works.
The switch should be placed to interrupt the HOT wire coming from the wall to your power supply.
If you happen to be using 240v power, it is also safe as you would be drawing 1.5 amps ...
At 250V a rating for 10A means 2500 Watts, which is fairly enough to use with a typical 3D printer. Make sure that the wire you use to connect the switch to the power supply can also take the current you need. Easiest way to get a cable that is safe to use is salvaging a mains cable from other devices. I would not use wires that were made for low power use ...
THHN wire is thermoplastic high heat-resistant nylon coated wire.
THWN is thermoplastic heat- and moisture-resistant nylon coated wire.
"T" stands for thermoplastic insulation covering the wire itself.
"H" stands for a heat resistance of the insulation max 167°F.
"HH" stands for a heat resistance, but increased max 194°F.
"W" is for moisture resistant.
You're quite right :)
L (AC): Brown colour. Single Phase line or Three Phase Line (L1)
N (AC): Blue colour. Neutral
GND: Green and yellow colours. Protective earth or ground (PE)
COM: DC Negative (-) - Also referred to as "Common"
V+: DC Positive (+)
V(ADJ). This is for a potentiometer, in order to modify the output voltage. You won't need this unless ...
You could use XT30 or XT60 connectors to sepparate the PSU from the Einsy. I have done it myself a few years ago on 4 Prusa's and it is working great. But I've only got the +/- cables, no power panic though.
The YL connectors are rated for wires as small as AWG 26 (and as big as AWG 16). If the power panic wires are smaller than this (or the power supply wires larger) you will need to use a different connector for them. Otherwise, I do not see a problem with mixing different wire gauges in the same connector.
This answer expands on the heat bed wires question which is not addressed in this answer and gives a foundation for the edit of the question stating that AWG 18 or lower is sufficient.
The current depends on the voltage your machine uses. The question does not state whether you modified the power supply or not. Typical values for the resistance of the bed ...
If my calculations are correct, a typical ceramic heating element for the extruder heating block runs 40 W. At 12 V dc, that equates to 3.33 A. A 24 awg wire is rated for 3.5 A, which means it barely covers the draw from the heater. A high torque Nema 17 motor will draw 2 A (which is probably heavier than most standard stepper motors in most 3D printing ...
22awg wiring is good for a max of 7A in this usage case. Your power supply can provide 30A. So it is definitely not large enough wire gauge for good wiring practice -- in the event of a short, you want the PSU's over-current protection to kick in before the wiring overheats. That would mean 14ga between the PSU and board. 16ga would probably cover your ...