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14

(source: all3dp.com) Your printer is skipping steps in the y-direction. This can have several causes. Take a look into Shifted layer guide on RapRap.org which lists 29 possible problems that can cause this issue and how to fix them. First items of the list: Driver current is too low Driver current is too high Belt too Loose Belt too Tight Loose Set Screw/...


11

In my experience, the most common reason for positional offset during printing, is the motor skipping steps due to physical impact. Your stepper motors do not give positional feedback to your printer. So, if you forcefully move your motor during print, then the printer will not notice, and simply pretend it never happened. In particular, the motor could ...


6

The current to your motor driver could be set either too high or too low. If it's set too low then the torque might not be sufficient and the motor will skip steps. If it's set too high then the driver might overheat and occasionally shut down to protect itself. Another option is that the printing speeds (or jerk/acceleration settings) are too high. I would ...


5

Basically, your setup is the following: The overhang of the bed, assuming the bearings are in the center, equals (300-105)/2 = 97.5 mm on each side. So the distance from the leftmost bearing face (when bed is at y = 0 mm) to the center of the Y rods assembly equals 300 - 97.5 = 202.5 mm. Knowing this distance for the other side of the center to the right ...


4

Many printer's X/Y endstops are not at the origin of the build plate/heated bed. In the firmware, an offset is defined from the build plate origin to the endstop locations. This is normal, nothing to worry about. When you hook up your printer to your computer over USB, and install a program that can interface with the printer (e.g. PronterFace, OctoPrint, ...


4

Yes, this is the "intended" behavior, as the home in relation to the physical limit position is not placed correctly about 7.5 mm into the bed in both X and Y. to correct this, please look at the Recalibrating Home-position for the Ender3


4

I recently went to the same issue on my CoreXY printer (culprit was uneven belt tension in the 2 belts), but you have a Prusa style printer like my first Anet A8 printer. If you just found out (because you are printing large models now) but always had this issue it could be frame related. You should check your printer and try to fix the geometry that is ...


4

When you describe a problem like this, it is best to describe the effect, not what you think is the cause - particularly since others then might mis-read your description. Each layer being offset in one direction suggests that there is a problem with either the part moving on the bed (unlikely), or in the registration of one axis drifting over time. Most ...


4

From what I've experienced, there could be three potential reasons. Your belt(s) could be loose. Simply loosen your Y-Axis motor and pull the motor until the belt is slightly more than taught (it will relax into a taught position). Then, tighten the motor securely in its place. One of your axis endstops could be triggered mid-print. If you have a larger ...


4

Your video shows that your bed seems warped somewhat. Ammount of error As I assume you did level the bed with a sheet of paper to be 0.1 mm thick, we can estimate the change of thickness. The thickest point seems to be 0.2 mm, the thinnest 0.05. that's in average an error of 0.075 mm for the first layer. If you can live with that, no need to touch it. Fixing ...


4

This looks like your problems are lack of retraction and having the slicer's "overhangs" setting enabled. Retraction is absolutely essential when your print has layers with multiple disconnected components, and even when it doesn't, it's usually important. Without retraction, material will continue to flow out of the nozzle after extrusion is supposed to ...


4

Ideally you would use three bearings opposed to four. In principle you will only need 3 fixtures to get a stable reference frame. Look at how most Prusa i3 "X" carriages are constructed, they also have just three bearings. Three bearings are way more easy to line out (especially with tight tolerance bearings), with four bearings you will get binding much ...


3

This effect is called layer shifting . Now that you know what it is called you could look at some other solutions fixing this issue; e.g. here, here or here. The answers of this question describe best what is causing this. Usually (most of all the cases) it means that your belts are not tight enough. An edit of the question shows that the effect happens ...


3

Had Y axis stepping issues Solved the issue by correct pressure on the guide wheels on the Y-axis track. Too much pressure caused binding and the Y stepper motor to skip steps Hope this helps some people


3

A thudding noise is usually a belt slipping through its end-restraints. A clicking noise is usually a stepper motor missing a step. Seized bearings could be the cause.


3

To correct x-y axis alignment to 90 degrees: Loosen the nuts on the two threaded rods at one end and in the middle. Lower the Z-axis to its lowest level. Place a square block of wood or metal so that it rests on the table and is snug against the X-axis rods. Slide the table so that either its rear or front edge is under the edge of the block. There you ...


3

You have a case of layer shift. Layer shifts happened to me in 3 ways: The movement of the axis is hindered. Check if all cables run freely and without any chance to catch! improper cable chains can cause binding and stop the printhead or bed in movement and thus induce a shift. The acceleration might be too fast. Shift the acceleration of the printer ...


2

Layer shifting is a result of the use of open-loop control systems. This means that the printer just instructs the head to go to certain positions without checking that it actually did arrive at that position. If something happens along the path, like hitting some part of the print or the printer, the motors could loose steps or the belts may skip teeth ...


2

It is intentional for the head to start slightly off the build plate. If it did start on the build plate you could crash the nozzle when the bed is not levelled. Note the level varies with temperature and build plate type. If you switch from PLA to ABS etc you should relevel the bed. Having just had the innaccurate z-end stop switch cause a deep gouge ...


2

The issue was the X-axis top smooth rod came out. this caused the extruder to bang around and shift on the Y-axis when it shifted forward. thank everyone for their help.


2

Well that is unique. I would say if you only see this after the printer has been running a while then your electronics are likely overheating. Put a fan on it and report back. Otherwise and also I would reflash the electronics..


2

I shook off my laziness and disassembled the mounts holding the stepper motors and tightened the belts. After doing so the drift was resolved.


2

In addition to the other answer to complete the overview, your stepper motor may not get enough power and misses steps, increasing the current by adjusting the stepper driver voltage could also solve the issue (when the current is too low that is! never just increase this to try out, you could damage the stepper, the drivers or the board, so beware).


2

I managed to get rid of the problem by installing a linear rail for the y-axis! Used this mod from thingyverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3064275 There are also solutions out there which are placing a linear rail on the left AND right side, but since for me the problem was only on the left side, this seemed sufficient (and was).


2

I see some possible issues at work here: Retraction issues on the arc. You might need to decrease your retraction length a little. Your bed might have a little play. tighten the eccentric nuts a tiny bit. As you are at it, check your X-belt, because accuracy on the Y move is affected by the accuracy of the X-head's position.


2

There are a lot of different print quality problems going on here, but the biggest I see is the bulging and sagging at the corners of each layer. This is a result of extrusion not being a zero-delay linear function of extruder motor motion, but subject to compression/pressure. This causes excess extrusion when printing slows down (approaching and rounding a ...


2

The Ender 3 has a printable area of 220x220x250 mm according to the specifications. So, there is nothing wrong. Sometimes heated beds are slightly larger than the actual print area. E.g. 235x235 mm or 310x310 mm. For centering the nozzle to the build plate, you should look into "How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)&...


1

I apologize I should have got back with you guys sooner. I downloaded a fresh copy of the Marlin firmware again and pulled up the Sprinter config.H folder. Since the firmwares are very similar I was able to just glance at my Sprinter firmware and noticed certain endstops for my optical endstops required "pull ups" to correctly work. I thought I had tried ...


1

Without the images of how you connected the endstops, the best guess for your problem is that the endstops cause a short circuit, once pressed, the microprocessor trips and shuts down. If you provide more information, other people may even add better answers based on your added information. E.g. how is everything connected at both sides of the cable (board ...


1

From your video, it sounds to me as though the stepper motor is fighting against the bed movement. That would indicate to me the bed rails on the X-axis are not square to the bed movement, which would cause binding of the linear bearings on the bed. To see if this is the issue, loosen the threaded rods in all six places (three placed times two rods). Loosen ...


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