1) Smaller nozzle advantage: sharper "corners" (higher X and Y resolution) 2) Larger nozzle advantage: faster 3d printing (because you can print the shell faster as each perimeter can be thicker so ...

There are several ways. 1) Simplest is the business card/paper method. This video shows how simple it is: Leveling the platform You should feel the same amount of resistance between the hotend and ...

Quality depends on 3 things: Quality of pellets (purity, fillers, color) Where/how they are stored before and during the extrusion (humidity, contaminants) Have a filter in your extruder to get rid ...

1) If we're talking about FFF/FDM printers: Accuracy of the electronics and motors allows it, yes. But how FDM printers work it might be very hard to lay down layers of molten plastic so small as to ...

Many 3d printer motherboards are based on Arduino/Atmega microcontroller and just add some stepper motor drivers, MOSFETs and such in a single board. That explains why you use the Arduino IDE to ...

You have several options: Printing with filaments made up of plastic and metal powder mix. Bronzefill is one example. While most may argue it doesn't look much like bronze or copper and rather clay, ...

There is no argument that the most successful FOSS 3D editor is Blender. It can both import and export STL files and export to STL or many other formats (DAE, OBJ, 3DS, FBX, DXF, WRL) so you can both ...

Print a two part negative (mold) of your objects. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31581 https://pinshape.com/blog/how-to-generate-a-3d-printed-mold-for-an-object/ Melt and pour wax into the mold. ...

I believe you might be having an issue with insufficient cooling. Remember the suggestion to have wait times per layer to let the previous layer cool? Well, I think with your setup and print not only ...

You very likely have partial clog in your hotend (the side which is clogged is the angle the extruding filament bends to) or have some plastic somehow stuck on the nozzle surface which the extruding ...

If your heatbed itself is aluminum/copper/other metal: Get a glass cut and replace it. The current one is probably attached to the heatbed with adhesive glue. If it the adhesive is cyanocrylate based, ...

The first layer is usually squished more to help with the adhesion. On top of that with ABS there's a bit of deformation even if the print doesn't lift. So spare yourself the frustration, FDM 3d ...

Knot happens when you loosen the filament yourself and then leave it like that or try to manually re-spool it. To avoid this kind of situation as well as the curly filament coming off the spool and ...

To add to the above answers, besides the obvious point that one hotend might collide with something another hotend positioned lower than it has printed, you also want both hotends to be positioned X ...

To add to the above answer, a very simple way to say it is that FMD 3d printer is a rapid prototyping machine which has a component called an extruder which pulls and melts plastic which the machine ...