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I know the original user has probably found an answer to their question by now, but I'll add my 2 cents for the benefit of others who come across this. My

My experience with hatchboxHatchbox has been that the walls and top layers were looking good at 200C200°C, but when I started stress testing the parts to their fail points I noticed that the internals were Justjust a fibrous mess with no structural integrity. So

So I started increasing tempsthe temperature in increments of 10C10°C and found that at 210C210°C it improved, and at 220C220°C there was good layer adhesion. At 230C230°C layer adhesion was absolutely beautiful, but it begins to get a little too melty. I have settled at 220C220°C for my machine. Keep

Keep in mind that everyone's printers are going to be slightly different, - hotends, fan setup, even the thermisterthermistor could have varied resistance from one machine to another causing incorrect readouts on temps. Thats That's why you have to tinker and find what works well for you and your machine.

I know the original user has probably found an answer to their question by now, but I'll add my 2 cents for the benefit of others who come across this. My experience with hatchbox has been that the walls and top layers were looking good at 200C, but when I started stress testing the parts to their fail points I noticed that the internals were Just a fibrous mess with no structural integrity. So I started increasing temps in increments of 10C and found that at 210C it improved, and at 220C there was good layer adhesion. At 230C layer adhesion was absolutely beautiful, but it begins to get a little too melty. I have settled at 220C for my machine. Keep in mind that everyone's printers are going to be slightly different, hotends, fan setup, even the thermister could have varied resistance from one machine to another causing incorrect readouts on temps. Thats why you have to tinker and find what works well for you and your machine.

I know the original user has probably found an answer to their question by now, but I'll add my 2 cents for the benefit of others who come across this.

My experience with Hatchbox has been that the walls and top layers were looking good at 200°C, but when I started stress testing the parts to their fail points I noticed that the internals were just a fibrous mess with no structural integrity.

So I started increasing the temperature in increments of 10°C and found that at 210°C it improved, and at 220°C there was good layer adhesion. At 230°C layer adhesion was absolutely beautiful, but it begins to get a little too melty. I have settled at 220°C for my machine.

Keep in mind that everyone's printers are going to be slightly different - hotends, fan setup, even the thermistor could have varied resistance from one machine to another causing incorrect readouts on temps. That's why you have to tinker and find what works well for you and your machine.

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I know the original user has probably found an answer to their question by now, but I'll add my 2 cents for the benefit of others who come across this. My experience with hatchbox has been that the walls and top layers were looking good at 200C, but when I started stress testing the parts to their fail points I noticed that the internals were Just a fibrous mess with no structural integrity. So I started increasing temps in increments of 10C and found that at 210C it improved, and at 220C there was good layer adhesion. At 230C layer adhesion was absolutely beautiful, but it begins to get a little too melty. I have settled at 220C for my machine. Keep in mind that everyone's printers are going to be slightly different, hotends, fan setup, even the thermister could have varied resistance from one machine to another causing incorrect readouts on temps. Thats why you have to tinker and find what works well for you and your machine.