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Your hotend temperature is too high and/or too less part cooling. The part cooling is very important to solidify the hot fluid filament in time to have a solid fundament for the next layer. PLA has a reasonably low glass temperature (at this point the filament is weak and mealable/flexible, at about 60 °C), if the part is not cooled properly, the part temperature can be over the glass temperature when printing the next layer and will distort the previous and current layer.

I print PLA at a maximum temperature of 200 °C (for my thermistor reading).

A combination or a single of these parameters not being the correct value will cause the dent at the front and the stringing and letters to be faded as the filament is not cooled properly and deforms the previous and current layer, this easily shows up in overhangs like at the bow of your print.

Try to lower the hotend temperature by 5 °C per next calibration print (or start at 200 °C and work down from there) and increase the part cooling a little if possible (35% to 50%). The build plate generally does not need to be 5 ° higher for the first layer nor do you need an extra 5 °C for the hotend, PLA is not that difficult to print.

Your hotend temperature is too high and/or too less part cooling. The part cooling is very important to solidify the hot fluid filament in time to have a solid fundament for the next layer. PLA has a reasonably low glass temperature (at this point the filament is weak and mealable/flexible, at about 60 °C), if the part is not cooled properly, the part temperature can be over the glass temperature when printing the next layer and will distort the previous and current layer.

I print PLA at a maximum temperature of 200 °C (for my thermistor reading).

A combination or a single of these parameters not being the correct value will cause the dent at the front and the stringing and letters to be faded as the filament is not cooled properly and deforms the previous and current layer, this easily shows up in overhangs like at the bow of your print.

Try to lower the hotend temperature by 5 °C per next calibration print (or start at 200 °C and work down from there) and increase the part cooling a little if possible (35 % to 50 %). The build plate generally does not need to be 5 °C higher for the first layer nor do you need an extra 5 °C for the hotend, PLA is not that difficult to print.

Your hotend temperature is too high and/or too less part cooling. I print PLA at a maximum temperature of 200 °C (for my thermistor reading).

A combination or a single of these parameters being not the correct value will cause the dent at the front and the stringing and letters to be faded as the filament is not cooled properly and deforms the previous and current layer, this easily shows up in overhangs like at the bow of your print.

Try to lower the hotend temperature by 5 °C per next calibration print (or start at 200 °C and work down from there) and increase the part cooling a little if possible (35% to 50%). The build plate generally does not need to be 5 ° higher for the first layer nor do you need an extra 5 °C for the hotend, PLA is not that difficult to print.

Your hotend temperature is too high and/or too less part cooling. The part cooling is very important to solidify the hot fluid filament in time to have a solid fundament for the next layer. PLA has a reasonably low glass temperature (at this point the filament is weak and mealable/flexible, at about 60 °C), if the part is not cooled properly, the part temperature can be over the glass temperature when printing the next layer and will distort the previous and current layer.

I print PLA at a maximum temperature of 200 °C (for my thermistor reading).

A combination or a single of these parameters not being the correct value will cause the dent at the front and the stringing and letters to be faded as the filament is not cooled properly and deforms the previous and current layer, this easily shows up in overhangs like at the bow of your print.

Try to lower the hotend temperature by 5 °C per next calibration print (or start at 200 °C and work down from there) and increase the part cooling a little if possible (35% to 50%). The build plate generally does not need to be 5 ° higher for the first layer nor do you need an extra 5 °C for the hotend, PLA is not that difficult to print.

Your hotend temperature is too high and/or too less part cooling. I print PLA at a maximum temperature of 200 °C (for my thermistor reading).

A combination or a single of these parameters being not the correct value will cause the dent at the front and the stringing and letters to be faded.

Try to lower the hotend temperature by 5 °C per next calibration print (or start at 200 °C and work down from there) and increase the part cooling a little if possible (35% to 50 %). The build plate generally does not need to be 5 ° higher for the first layer nor do you need an extra 5 °C for the hotend, PLA is not that difficult to print.

Your hotend temperature is too high and/or too less part cooling. I print PLA at a maximum temperature of 200 °C (for my thermistor reading).

A combination or a single of these parameters being not the correct value will cause the dent at the front and the stringing and letters to be faded as the filament is not cooled properly and deforms the previous and current layer, this easily shows up in overhangs like at the bow of your print.

Try to lower the hotend temperature by 5 °C per next calibration print (or start at 200 °C and work down from there) and increase the part cooling a little if possible (35% to 50%). The build plate generally does not need to be 5 ° higher for the first layer nor do you need an extra 5 °C for the hotend, PLA is not that difficult to print.