You'd have to check with the manufacturer then to see if they can import whatever design files your creation software (such as Fusion360) can export.

Plastic injection molding, where hot plastic is injected into a mold under high pressure and typically from various places, will not have the internal layers & fill that 3D printing can have. So components will likely be heavier and balanced differently. I've not done any prints that were 100% fill (mostly because they take longer). If you are printing a part to make a mold from to use with other materials, like plaster or something, I guess that would not be so inportant.

Part of it does, yes. Really slippery stuff on the track bars.

Try it on a small spot in a corner, see how it looks.

Rotary grinder with a small tip (think "Dremel tool"). Don't set the speed too high, which will just melt the plastic.

3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10176/… Two of my videos here

I'd recommend a different print surface. After struggling like you, PLA printed on blue tape, we printed a box that seemed welded down! We had to chisel it off the bed, screwing up the leveling. Fed up with that, we added a WhamBam system to our printer. It has a magnet that is stuck to the aluminum bed, and a sheet of PEX material that is stuck to a sheet of flex steel. The magnet holds the flex steel/PEX in place while printing. When the print finishes you pick up the flex steel/PEX, give it a little flex, and the part pops right off. I've posted videos in this forum of parts we've done.

Look into the WhamBam System for future prints. Basically: a magnet is stuck on the aluminum bed. A print surface of PEX is stuck to a flex steel sheet. The sheet is then place on the magnet. When the print is done, the flex steet sheet is lifted off, after maybe 30 seconds, the flex steel is flexed, parts pop right off. Print surface is very smooth, like glass. I have previously posted videos of if working. We changed over after having to chisel a PLA box off of blue tape on the aluminum print bed.

So I guess plywood, then some thermal insulator, then heat pad, then AL plate.

I would think plywood would dry out and become a fire hazard over time with 60C/140F temperature applied to it for hours at a time.

How will you secure the heated pad? On my printer, the corners that hold the leveling screws also hold the corners of the pad (unless it had a peel & stick face on it, I didn't see that part was assembled).

Could also be a wiring problem. I have a Migbot 3D printer, it came with cables that were wired 1-2-3-4 on both ends. Two of stepper motor end needed 1-3-2-4 tho to drive the A & B coils correctly. (the extruder for sure, and I think the X axis (back and forth), or maybe the Z axis (up & down). Or perhaps both, it's been a while since we fixed it, and I recall we had lost one cable and the replacement had the wrong pinout. We found the problem when the printer wouldn't 'home' in the correct spot and was ignoring the limit switch when it got to what turned out to to be the wrong switch.)

I've been successfully printing with the WhamBam system. A magnet is stuck to the AL bed. Then a sheet of PEX material stick on a piece of flex-steel is used as the print surface. The magnet holds it in place. When a print is done, the flex-steel is removed, let it cool 30 seconds or so, give it a little flex and the printed parts pops right off. Every several prints (10, 12?), give it a wipe with some isopropyl alchohol and you're ready to go again. We used blue tape for a while, and after fighting pieces off the AL, we went the WhamBam route and couldn't be happier. whambam3d.com

What is the material? Is the bed heater working? What is the material covering the bed?