5
votes
Accepted
After print failure cant extrude PLA
If the hotend is okay, consider yourself lucky and consider the nozzle a loss. Aside from specialty items like ruby tip ones, nozzles are a consumable anyway. Even if you can clean it out well enough ...
4
votes
E3D Clone heatbreak / nozzle leak issue
How does this happen?
For melted filament to leak around the heat break threads, it has to first get through the metal-to-metal machined surface joint where the heat break contacts the nozzle. Given ...
3
votes
All-metal hotends are less forgiving / not as good for PLA -- but how bad?
All-metal hotends are less forgiving
Yes
not as good for PLA
No
but how bad?
That is very subjective and totally depending on the skill of the 3D printer operator! So, that part of the ...
3
votes
Accepted
Way to add identity to an all metal hot end
Given your heatbreaks are the same material and external dimensions, it seems that the most practical way to distinguish one from the other would be to mount the all metal heatbreaks in a heat sink ...
2
votes
Accepted
Hotends where heatbreak is not load-bearing?
The drop-in replacement all metal hotends for the Ender 3 that I've looked at seem to have the two screws -- though I've read/heard opinions that these are intended to be removed after assembly, these ...
2
votes
Accepted
Is it practical to build a separate hotend temperature controller to assemble hotends without taking up printer time?
You can get a suitable board for $20 or so, print a case for a few cents, and either repurpose an old PC power supply or buy a new one just powerful enough for the hotend (not bed) heater very cheap, ...
2
votes
E3D Clone heatbreak / nozzle leak issue
Verification: When you tighten the nozzle against the heat break, the nozzle is not tightened completely against the heater block. If the nozzle tightens completely against the heater block, it will ...
2
votes
Is there a possibility to reliably print PLA with an Ender 3 that has an all-metal hot end?
You can look up the material properties of Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) and see that its glass transition temperature (when it softens) is around 115 °C, and it melts at 327 °C. The PTFE in a not-...
1
vote
Ok to shutdown printer after unloading filament, with no cool down?
While heat creep as you describe it is a concern, The more pressing reason to let a hotend cool off first is safety.
A hotend at printing temperature can be >200°C, with little to no airflow it may ...
1
vote
Clogging from heat creep, but only in the nozzle itself?
Since I have been unable to find a way to fix the E3D V6 clone hotend I have instead replaced it with a Creality Mk 8 that I had on-hand, which has so far worked flawlessly.
I am assuming that the ...
1
vote
K-Thermistor vs Ender 3 Stock Thermistor: Problem with bad reads
Even if it works properly (which it seems not to do), this type of thermistor will only have a resistance of around 100 Ohms at 350°C, which is too low to be useful in your printer. It is rather ...
1
vote
Accepted
Ender 3 Upgraded to All Metal Hot End -- Heat Creep?
As suggested in comments, I've installed Luke Hatfield's captive PTFE tube fix using high temperature Capricorn PTFE tube inside the heat break, and this seems to have solved the problem, while ...
1
vote
Hotends where heatbreak is not load-bearing?
You ask in general, not specifically for Ender, so since you mention the Mosquito, which has a characteristic shape and a size, the obvious alternative which doesn't cost that much is the Phaetus ...
1
vote
Accepted
Can I use a material other than PTFE to print PETG?
PETG does not need an all-metal hotend or alternate bowden/lining material. Unless you're trying to print at #speedboatrace-competitive speeds, the recommended ...
1
vote
All-metal hotends are less forgiving / not as good for PLA -- but how bad?
Are they so bad I should plan on changing back to a PTFE hot end?
No, all metal hot end are not that bad, and may even be beneficial when printing at higher temperatures. You mentioned that you want ...
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