16
votes
Accepted
What's the purpose of the "outlines" around prints?
I am curious, what is the purpose of printing a single-height outline around the objects to be printed?
The (equidistant) lines at distance from the print object is called the "skirt", the skirt is ...
9
votes
Ender 3 print bed damage
Your print surface is destroyed
So, you managed to rip off your print surface in the center. Happened to me too. the corners of my scraper were too sharp, cutting the surface. Another time I did ...
6
votes
What's the purpose of the "outlines" around prints?
My understand is that's is basically a purging extrusion, so that you get flow through the extruder before you start printing the object, as filament that's been inside the hotend during warm-up might ...
6
votes
Accepted
What is the best technique to improve removing PETG from the print bed?
Playing around with the nozzle height will help: back it off until just before you have first layer adhesion issues. Don't jam the filament into the bed as you might for ABS. This helps with small ...
5
votes
Accepted
Bed wobbling on Ender 3
If the V roller wheels aren't tight on the Y axis beam, it means the eccentric nuts are not adjusted correctly. Two of the rollers are mounted centered on the holes in the carriage frame, but the ...
5
votes
Accepted
How can you prevent the build plate from slipping?
I use kapton tape to fixate the glass plates to the heated beds on two of my printers, one a Prusa i3 clone, the other a CoreXY. The tape is able to withstand higher temperatures, and is very thin, so ...
5
votes
Nozzle not level and first print failed
Your Z-endstop assembly is clearly too high. Referring to your own first foto you see that the switch on the Z-endstop mount is nearly touching the bottom of the X-Z mounting.
You need to adjust the ...
4
votes
Accepted
PRUSA likes the bed to be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. What else should I use?
Ethanol (Ethyl Alcohol) should work just fine as long as it's around 80% or more. It's very similar to isopropanol as a cleaning solvent. What you're basically doing is removing any stray grease from ...
4
votes
What is the best technique to improve removing PETG from the print bed?
Correctly level your bed. Seriously, that's the answer. PETG does stick well, but it only gets difficult to remove if you're smashing the first layer against the bed with a nozzle that's way too close....
4
votes
Ender 3 shut down with ”Err: MAXTEMP: Bed"
I presume the bed doesn't feel hot, therefore something is interfering with the printer's ability to sense it's bed temperature.
Two possibilities come to mind:
The bed's temperature sensor is broken/...
3
votes
What is the best technique to improve removing PETG from the print bed?
Try to lift the nozzle more than you'd do even for PLA. PETG sticks really well to the heated bed. If your bed is already well leveled you can adjust the nozzle position in Z by using Z offsets ...
3
votes
Accepted
Damage to bed surface from heat or chemical or..?
The build surface on the Ender3 is a BuildTak clone. The picture is a bit unclear, but given my experience with BuildTak (clones) this certainly damage because of heat. You can, as suggested before, ...
3
votes
Model stuck on the heating bed
Unfortunately, you may have to destroy this part, or the build surface, just to get it off the plate. It looks really on there, and if you can't get under it even with a razor that further supports my ...
3
votes
How can you prevent the build plate from slipping?
I'm not sure what "the build plate keeps slipping while printing. I tried to use binder clips to keep the plate in place" means, but if you have a build surface and a bottom heated bed, you ...
3
votes
Thin bead not adhering to itself or bed very well, what am I doing wrong
If you look at the multiple lines of the skirt, you see that none of the printed lines are touching the other laid down lines. This is an indication for under extrusion or a too large of a gap between ...
3
votes
Why is it more common to move the extruder on the Z-axis than the print bed, in consumer FDM printers?
The reason is economics, building cheap printers for the masses requires the use of as less material as possible; this keeps the price down.
A bed that moves up and down requires a sturdy construction ...
3
votes
Why do two identical Creality Ender 3 V2 printers have a center that is 3 mm off from each other and 7 mm off expected and how to calibrate it?
Perhaps the hot-end or end stops of one of the printers are located in a slightly different location. That's why there is a calibration guide to be able to correct that.
2
votes
Accepted
Can I print directly onto the bed plate? (Ender 3 Pro)
I've printed for several years direct onto the 3 mm heated bed of the Anet A8 I used; worked perfectly! I did use a specific 3D print spray for adhesion, see e.g. this answer on "Should you use ...
2
votes
Ender 3 PRO BLTouch V2 perfect on center with small prints but fails on corners or big prints
Following Nathan's answer, I've solved my problem with Nathan's suggestions and the method in this video.
What I did?
Flashed Creality's original BLTouch firmware to printer
Heated up bed to 60 °C
...
2
votes
Filament residue sticks to bed and wont come off
I would try a single edge razor blade at a low angle used as a scraper. If you can't feel the blade catching in the residue, it probably isn't an issue.
If you must get rid of it you don't have good ...
2
votes
Filament residue sticks to bed and wont come off
I had exactly the same issue. I read where ethyl acetate would work so I bought a can of Klean Strip M.E.K Substitute (MSDS says it is ethyl acetate) at Home Depot and it works like a champ. No ...
2
votes
Options for removing failed prints
You can try putting it in the oven at 100 °C and then peeling it off. At that temperature it's soft as cheese.
2
votes
Options for removing failed prints
Print a filled square 2 layers thick over the whole surface of the bed and then peel off when it's still warm, so that it may take away also the previous deposits.
2
votes
Accepted
Options for removing failed prints
Once a time, it was the same with me, I sanded the surface well and continued for a while without any problems. The only problem was the sand pattern that was always visible in the bottom of models ...
2
votes
Options for removing failed prints
If you have tried every trick to remove the print, you probably need to replace the build surface. If the PLA is "engraved" into the build surface, your surface is damaged anyways, just ...
2
votes
What is the best technique to improve removing PETG from the print bed?
Spraying Windex (the original formula blue w/ammonia - not the multisurface, and not the vinegar based) on the build plate and allowing it to dry. I still print PETG on a heated bed, and prints come ...
2
votes
Rather than stiffer springs, can I preserve my fine-tuned bed height using Nyloc nuts?
It's because the bed heats up. Since the bed can heat up to the point that locktite or nylon can soften, using those products to keep the screws from turning will have exactly the opposite effect.
2
votes
How can you prevent the build plate from slipping?
Build Plate
If your clips aren't holding down your build plate, make sure your nozzle isn't crashing into the plate and moving it. A build surface between the clip and surface or adhesive might help ...
2
votes
Ender 3 bed level issues along Y axis
A bend in the frame extrusion won't affect the bed this way on an Ender 3 -- the bed rides on a carriage with (IIRC) four V-groove wheels, similar to the Z and X axis carriages. If your bed is the ...
2
votes
How do I remove stuck on PETG filament from stock Ender 3 bed?
Spray all remainings with Isopropyl Alcohol and try rubbing it with a paper towel or sponge. Isopropyl Alcohol works as a release agent in this case and it may also soften these residues a bit. Try ...
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