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11 votes
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What's the purpose of the "outlines" around prints?

I am curious, what is the purpose of printing a single-height outline around the objects to be printed? The (equidistant) lines at distance from the print object is called the "skirt", the skirt is ...
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8 votes

Ender 3 print bed damage

Your print surface is destroyed So, you managed to rip off your print surface in the center. Happened to me too. the corners of my scraper were too sharp, cutting the surface. Another time I did ...
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5 votes
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How can you prevent the build plate from slipping?

I use kapton tape to fixate the glass plates to the heated beds on two of my printers, one a Prusa i3 clone, the other a CoreXY. The tape is able to withstand higher temperatures, and is very thin, so ...
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5 votes
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Bed wobbling on Ender 3

If the V roller wheels aren't tight on the Y axis beam, it means the eccentric nuts are not adjusted correctly. Two of the rollers are mounted centered on the holes in the carriage frame, but the ...
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4 votes

What's the purpose of the "outlines" around prints?

My understand is that's is basically a purging extrusion, so that you get flow through the extruder before you start printing the object, as filament that's been inside the hotend during warm-up might ...
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  • 253
4 votes
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PRUSA likes the bed to be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. What else should I use?

Ethanol (Ethyl Alcohol) should work just fine as long as it's around 80% or more. It's very similar to isopropanol as a cleaning solvent. What you're basically doing is removing any stray grease from ...
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  • 253
4 votes

Nozzle not level and first print failed

Your Z-endstop assembly is clearly too high. Referring to your own first foto you see that the switch on the Z-endstop mount is nearly touching the bottom of the X-Z mounting. You need to adjust the ...
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  • 31k
3 votes

How can you prevent the build plate from slipping?

I'm not sure what "the build plate keeps slipping while printing. I tried to use binder clips to keep the plate in place" means, but if you have a build surface and a bottom heated bed, you ...
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  • 3,806
3 votes
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Damage to bed surface from heat or chemical or..?

The build surface on the Ender3 is a BuildTak clone. The picture is a bit unclear, but given my experience with BuildTak (clones) this certainly damage because of heat. You can, as suggested before, ...
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  • 522
3 votes

Model stuck on the heating bed

Unfortunately, you may have to destroy this part, or the build surface, just to get it off the plate. It looks really on there, and if you can't get under it even with a razor that further supports my ...
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  • 461
3 votes

Thin bead not adhering to itself or bed very well, what am I doing wrong

If you look at the multiple lines of the skirt, you see that none of the printed lines are touching the other laid down lines. This is an indication for under extrusion or a too large of a gap between ...
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  • 31k
3 votes

Why is it more common to move the extruder on the Z-axis than the print bed, in consumer FDM printers?

The reason is economics, building cheap printers for the masses requires the use of as less material as possible; this keeps the price down. A bed that moves up and down requires a sturdy construction ...
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2 votes
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Can I print directly onto the bed plate? (Ender 3 Pro)

I've printed for several years direct onto the 3 mm heated bed of the Anet A8 I used; worked perfectly! I did use a specific 3D print spray for adhesion, see e.g. this answer on "Should you use ...
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  • 31k
2 votes

What is the best technique to improve removing PETG from the print bed?

Try to lift the nozzle more than you'd do even for PLA. PETG sticks really well to the heated bed. If your bed is already well leveled you can adjust the nozzle position in Z by using Z offsets ...
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  • 131
2 votes
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What is the best technique to improve removing PETG from the print bed?

Playing around with the nozzle height will help: back it off until just before you have first layer adhesion issues. Don't jam the filament into the bed as you might for ABS. This helps with small ...
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  • 168
2 votes

What is the best technique to improve removing PETG from the print bed?

Correctly level your bed. Seriously, that's the answer. PETG does stick well, but it only gets difficult to remove if you're smashing the first layer against the bed with a nozzle that's way too close....
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2 votes

Ender 3 PRO BLTouch V2 perfect on center with small prints but fails on corners or big prints

Following Nathan's answer, I've solved my problem with Nathan's suggestions and the method in this video. What I did? Flashed Creality's original BLTouch firmware to printer Heated up bed to 60 °C ...
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2 votes

How can you prevent the build plate from slipping?

Build Plate If your clips aren't holding down your build plate, make sure your nozzle isn't crashing into the plate and moving it. A build surface between the clip and surface or adhesive might help ...
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  • 2,080
2 votes

Options for removing failed prints

You can try putting it in the oven at 100 °C and then peeling it off. At that temperature it's soft as cheese.
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  • 436
2 votes

Options for removing failed prints

Print a filled square 2 layers thick over the whole surface of the bed and then peel off when it's still warm, so that it may take away also the previous deposits.
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  • 3,806
2 votes
Accepted

Options for removing failed prints

Once a time, it was the same with me, I sanded the surface well and continued for a while without any problems. The only problem was the sand pattern that was always visible in the bottom of models ...
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2 votes

Options for removing failed prints

If you have tried every trick to remove the print, you probably need to replace the build surface. If the PLA is "engraved" into the build surface, your surface is damaged anyways, just ...
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  • 31k
2 votes

Filament residue sticks to bed and wont come off

I would try a single edge razor blade at a low angle used as a scraper. If you can't feel the blade catching in the residue, it probably isn't an issue. If you must get rid of it you don't have good ...
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  • 4,418
2 votes

Rather than stiffer springs, can I preserve my fine-tuned bed height using Nyloc nuts?

It's because the bed heats up. Since the bed can heat up to the point that locktite or nylon can soften, using those products to keep the screws from turning will have exactly the opposite effect.
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  • 2,286
2 votes

Ender 3 bed level issues along Y axis

A bend in the frame extrusion won't affect the bed this way on an Ender 3 -- the bed rides on a carriage with (IIRC) four V-groove wheels, similar to the Z and X axis carriages. If your bed is the ...
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  • 1,516
1 vote

Cura: How to prevent my 3D printer from auto cooling after prints

In CuraEngine's FffGcodeWriter::finalize method, G-code to zero the bed and enclosure temperature is only written if the machine profile defines a heated bed/...
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1 vote

BLTouch error causing bed and nozzle temp setpoints to change to zero

I was wondering if it had something to do with my Z axis and BLTouch. When I unplugged the Z Axis on the printer the extruder wouldn't lower only raise so I plugged it back in and it moves in the ...
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  • 51
1 vote

Rather than stiffer springs, can I preserve my fine-tuned bed height using Nyloc nuts?

Does your bed already have washers on the screws? The neopreme (red) washer under the screw head (in picture). This is the German Reprap X400 design and is worth trying.
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  • 2,080
1 vote

Ender 3 PRO BLTouch V2 perfect on center with small prints but fails on corners or big prints

I would suggest you read this, even tho it's a different mainboard it may help. Next to that you should level the bed the old fashion way first with a paper on the 4 outer corners, it is essential ...
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1 vote

Filament residue sticks to bed and wont come off

Heat the bed to around 90 °C and then scrape everything off with a metallic scraper, like the ones used to fill gaps in walls. No need of a super sharp one, since the plastic will be very soft a that ...
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  • 3,806

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