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There are a couple of remote direct drive systems on the market. It uses a bowden-tube power feed to the hobbed gear on the hot end, with a gear reduction. This provides for the direct-drive benefits without the weight of the drive motor on the carriage. One of them is the Zesty Nimble and the other is Flex3Drive. I did not pursue the research involved to ...


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It seems the DEFAULT_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT of the TH3D firmware was causing the issue, which was something I was aware of but didn't think that it would cause this. I set it to zero and then re-printed the calibration cube. It came out with the dimensions of 20 mm x 20 mm x 20.1 mm, which was incredibly accurate for the setup I have. Related: Creality Ender 3 ...


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I had a similar issue, the first layer always ended up at slightly different heights, making the first layer too low or too high. At one point, I was raising the Z height 100 mm in G-code, and while watching the gantry rise I noticed extremely brief pauses, then when I lowered to zero the nozzle crashed the bed. I realized that the Z-axis threaded rod might ...


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I have this same extruder on my Voxelab Aquila. Default E-steps are 93. Using the printer menu to feed 100 mm of eSun black PETG filament I measured a feed length of 66 mm, so 34 mm under extruded. Using the formula 100 / 66 * 93 gave me a new E-step value of 140.9. Upon re-testing, I found I was now over extruding by 34mm. This formula is missing something. ...


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I think I figured it out! My extruder calibration was way off (set to 93 but measured to 102). I'm thinking that after I replaced the extruder feeder it through things off.


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What I have done: Using lowest hotend temperature 170 °C Using highest hotend temperature 220 °C No wobble in extruder (x-axis) No wobble in gantry (x-axis) No wobble in bed (y-axis) No wobble in z-rod (z-axis) Bed levelling to my perfect Shorten and slower the retraction, from 8 mm and 70 mm/s to 6 mm and 50 mm/s Enabling and disabling retraction Enabling ...


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Looking at your prints, the problem is possibly related to the fade out height of the BLTouch functionality. If you look closely at the 20x20x20 mm cube: half the print is fine (top half of the original correct cube) the bottom "half" (not really half as it is stretched) is porous (grey, indicating more space allowed than the correct layer height ...


1

As suggested in comments, I've installed Luke Hatfield's captive PTFE tube fix using high temperature Capricorn PTFE tube inside the heat break, and this seems to have solved the problem, while accomplishing the main thing I wanted an all metal hot end for: allowing higher print temperatures for filaments that require it. In my case, I had to modify the ...


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This was happened because I don't use support on the slope. After I use support the jagged edge is gone.


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This is a known issue with the v4.2.2 mainboard relating to overheating. Continued overheating will eventually result in the extruder controller on the mainboard going bad. Solution: Mainboard change to version 4.2.7 and raise your unit to create more air flow. You could also add a fan under the printer.


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To build in 0scar's answer, standard nozzle width is 0.4 mm, so using a width of 0.5 mm will likely make the slicer extrude the edge as two extrusion lines, either with one of them very thin (which is hard to print precisely), or overextruded so that the total width is closer to 0.8 mm. You should probably aim for exactly the nozzle/line width, or since that ...


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No, settings are stored in memory (or the equivalent storage location). When a new firmware is uploaded, the values set in the newly configured firmware can be set by Restore Defaults from the Marlin printer LCD the user interface. Alternatively, you could print a G-code file containing M502 and M500, or send them over using a console. M502 Reset all ...


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It looks like a problem with the Z axis. It looks like it isn’t lifting the Z as much as it thinks it is, so each layer gets over extruded because it’s trying to pack too much plastic in a shortened height. I would try cleaning and lubricating the Z rod(s) (with grease, not oil) and run the z axis up all the way and back down a few times, and watch for ...


1

Try using some halogen bulbs (for example car healights) with a heat resistant shiny reflector to increase the temperature of the printed part without having to increase the air temperature. You can easily reach 90 °C with 4 bulbs (one per corner, pointed to the center). And until you find a good print settings, I would still stick with 110-120% line width. ...


0

Something in the Ender 3 stock firmware (and even custom Marlin builds) is prone to corrupting SD cards, especially if you've removed and re-inserted them without using the unmount command on the menu first. I never tracked down exactly what it was before switching away from Marlin, but whenever it happened, making a new directory, moving all the files to it,...


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The layer adhesion with Polymax PETG at 260 °C was great so I didn't go any higher.


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These are (at least almost certainly) not layer shifts. A layer shift is when the physical toolhead position becomes inconsistent with the logical one because a stepper motor missed a step or the bed surface shifted or something else went wrong. It's possible for them to reverse if the same happens in the opposite direction at a later layer, but very ...


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Zeiss Ikon's answer is good - but just in case that doesn't solve it, have you printed larger / longer prints before? There's a well known problem with the Ender 3's 4.2.2 motherboard that causes layer shifts as it overheats on longer prints. You can try elevating the printer and putting a fan underneath to see if that changes anything. (I had that problem ...


3

Layer shifting has two basic causes: the partially printed part moves or flexes, or the bed or Y carriage (almost always -- they seem rather uncommon on the X axis) skips one or more steps in one direction or the other. Permanent layer shifts -- that is, where the entire print above the shift is and remains shifted -- are more likely to be the latter; ...


1

For some filament materials an enclosure without ventilation is too warm. You could run a hose to the outside like a cloths dryer uses and use a fan to blow the air out through it. Then, a filtering system is unnecessary. My understanding is a resin printing system is more complex to maintain. You probably would only want to go that direction if you ...


2

The VOC issue is overblown. Unless you print constantly, you don't need any air treatment. Often that kind of treatment is installed by people who like DIY for the fun of it, not because it's really needed. Characterization of volatile organic compound emissions from consumer level material extrusion 3D printers shows that dangerous chemicals may, in some ...


1

I sounds like you are on the edge of almost heat creep if you start printing before the extruder cools off. See if letting the extruder cool down to near room temperature solves the problem.


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This is opinion-based, but the volcano has drawbacks that affect print quality, mine is oozier and sloppier than a V6 with the shorter, more precise melt zone. It isn’t a slam dunk upgrade, more of a special applications part. I think there is no point to using a Volcano unless you’re running big nozzles fast, like .8 mm. Your 5 mm3/s throughput is low, the ...


3

There are really no reasons not to convert to direct drive, provided you use a good one. Many of the direct drive kits, especially the ones that reuse the existing giant NEMA-17 stepper, are not very good and have tradeoffs due to excessive mass on the toolhead, imbalanced mass, interference with frame reducing print volume, etc. The modern way to do direct ...


0

Other than higher carriage mass as you already noted, the only other reason to not go with Direct Drive over Bowden is the higher level of maintenance required. In most cases Direct Drive will provide advantages such as increasing the maximum flow speed, enabling the use of Linear/Pressure Advance, shortening Retraction moves, and better resistance to ...


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I had the same issue and thought I bricked it, so thank you for getting me on the right path! For Ender 3 Pro v4.2.2 motherboard, no Pinboard A, ISP Pinboard, or Burner required! In my case, I had used the provided pins (white housing) that were on the v4.2.2 motherboard itself. In doing so I had to switch the positions of the red and blue wires in the 3-pin ...


3

Cura has a lot of bad defaults, but also a lot of defaults that are chosen to let you get acceptable prints out of a really bad printer, a miscalibrated printer, or a printer with bad firmware. Printing at anything above very low speeds requires compensation for the differing pressure needed to move material through the nozzle at different flows. The printer ...


0

Perimeters, especially External Perimeters, are particularly sensitive to small deflections of the printhead, as well as extrusion issues from too fast of a print speed. You may be able to increase this speed for regular perimeters, however, higher speeds may introduce more ghosting issues.


2

This may be due to uneven cooling. The part cooling fan only comes from one direction on the Ender 3 series of printers. You may be able to solve the issue by printing the walls from the outside in. If not, I recommend printing a fan shroud that has part cooling ducts on both sides; there are plenty of them on thingiverse.


2

200°C is way too cold for printing PETG, especially with the Ender 3's weak extruder (ungeared, single flat hob with minimal contact with the filament) that already struggles with PETG. Probably it barely manages to keep up while the flow is low enough, but starts slipping in the extruder at some point in your print that needs higher flow, and then the torn-...


1

I got a roll of Hatchbox PETG and the prints are fantastic. Small test prints don't break along the layers even at higher fan speeds. The problem was the Polymax PETG. I took a look at the TDS for it and the impact strength on standing samples was only 29% of the standing ones. I believe the Polymax PETG just has inherent layer adhesion problems. Please ...


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