I also had the extruder drive slipping backwards (clicking sound) as well and narrowed it down to a Cura update that had changed my Ender 3 machine settings from Marlin to Marlin (volume metric).
Once changed back to Marlin, all is well now. No over extruding. Before reversing the change, I had to reduce the flow rate to 53 %. Now, I’m back to 100 % and ...
That part seems dubious
Your part is labeled LJ18A3-8-Z/BX. That is a Z/BX type sensor of the LJ18A3-8 series - that first part dictates an M18 outer thread and thus dimensions and a triggering distance of 8mm. Z/BX indicates NPN NO, so a normally open sensor of the NPN type. However, that labeling indicates an inductive sensor with a required supply voltage ...
I wouldn't worry about that overhang. It should settle in a few layers. Just make sure you have a decent cooling fan on it.
Given the fact that you are making a helmet, I assume you are going to sand and apply putty to the whole thing at least 2 times and then sand in increasing grit. A little filing on that overhang will be an easy task.
The shavings come in part from the extruder design: there is no fillet on the pulling in side, the filament goes up in a sharp angle and is dragged over a rather sharp edge. It also brushes against the leadscrew.
To help with the shavings, you should alter the filament path to try and have a flatter angle than the 90°. A simple rod that pushes out the ...
Unless you enclose the printer fully in some way or another, I see problems, even beyond just print quality:
humidity can and will end inside the printer by condensation and destroy the electronics, especially in the fall and winter months.
being accessible, children from the neighborhood might get their stubby fingers into the running machine or throw off ...
If your having first layer adhesion issues:
Please try one (or more) of the following (Start with #1), and remember that all of them are equally important!
Make sure your bed is level (Maybe use a leaving stick (or whatever those bubble things are called))
Be sure the bed is clean (I recommend glass cleaner 1-3 squirts and then a light scrub of a paper ...
You should be able to add a global override to the flow percentage on Marlin firmware printers.
Add this line somewhere in your start code:
M221 S97 ; Flow Percentage hard set.
In Cura, edit the printer's machine settings. The S is the percentage. In my case, 97 % works for PLA+.
Here is a link you might find useful.
Your video doesn’t show a printer moving terribly fast, which makes it seem like it could be a problem with the motion or the electronics. Check the movement of the Y axis by hand, is it smooth? With the belt on, and the stepper motor attached, you’ll feel some resistance and little bumps, from the steps in the motor, but it should be pretty smooth, and ...
Do you have any “slope” on the right side (non motor) of the gantry? I’ve noticed that my gantry will settle on the right side and lag behind the motor driven - ever so slightly - when it starts to drive up. It will, after that first lag, move fine for the rest of the time. Z axis travel seems barely affected but all my prints are consistently about .5 mm ...
If everything is stock on the machine and all other setting are properly configured, this is most likely heat creep. This is caused when the PFTE tubing is not properly set within the hot end itself leaving a small gap. As filament is fed into the hot end and heated to melting, some filament oozes out in the gap between the PFTE tubing and the nozzle. This ...
I had the exact same issue and then suddenly it went away.
The only thing I had changed was my Z-offset. I moved it away from the plate by roughly 0.1 mm. To confirm it was the reason I set it back closer to the plate and the problem came back. I think When the nozzle is too close to the plate the plastic cannot freely flow out and hence the pressure ...
Likely underextrusion. The Ender 3's extruder is particularly bad at PETG and slips a lot unless you go really slow, like 3 mm³/s (about 40 mm/s at 0.2 mm layers and 0.4 mm line width) or lower.
For a long time I thought this was a limitation of the material, at least without a really powerful hotend, and wondered why anyone liked it. But after replacing the ...
The density of the filament can be specified in the material model of the filament in Cura (Preferences -> Configure Cura... -> Materials and click on the material/filament you are using to slice your model for PETG), look at the value behind Density, the PETG filament I use is using 1.28 g/cm³ (PETG Economy Black -> Specification >).
This field ...
Again another nightmare for 3d printer users - it took me days to figure it out.
My Ender 3 bed was warped in the middle. I got a glass bed, which helped.
I installed the BLTouch and used the Ender 3 Pro firmware. It gives you the options in the menu. I also added the G29 code to G-code.
But it's not perfect. I needed to manually adjust the Z-probe.
After tightening the screws on the X-axis gantry and doing the bed leveling and test prints again it seems to have gotten better.
Also, while I was under the impression that the V2's heated glass bed should work well without adhesive, I applied a bit of glue stick and now my first print seems to have a perfect first layer.
I may just have been confused ...
There could be multiple reasons for this happening, the most probable cause would be that the bed isn't leveled properly, if you have an auto leveling bed I'd suggest that you give that a run through, I also found it personally helpful with mine (Ender 5 Plus) that if I did the manual leveling, so the four corners, then go and do the auto leveling. Another ...
It seems the pinout scheme changed on the Creality board between the versions V4.2.2 and 4.2.8. For example, PB9 & PC2 were inverted between step_pin and dir_pin.
Using the following Klipper config (found here) allows the motors to do their job again.