New answers tagged

0

For the 1.1.x (1.1.9) bugfix firmware version, the multiple probing is defined in the configuration.h file. // The number of probes to perform at each point. // Set to 2 for a fast/slow probe, using the second probe result. // Set to 3 or more for slow probes, averaging the results. //#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2 You should change the configuration to ...


1

Your bed level according to the sensor and reality is changing between the time of probing and the time of printing. There is not enough info to determine exactly where the problem is, but the possible causes and solutions are most likely: Bed or X-carriage is mechanically loose: ensure all axis and parts of the printer are tight, including the hot-end ...


1

Your springs are WAY too much compressed. Turn them loose into the "UP" direction till you are almost at the bed and then level your bed.


0

You do have hit the true home. You will have to physically move the endstop to alter that position. Your problem is, that the endstop-home is on the build area - and that is printer dependant. My Ender 3 has about 4 mm diagonal distance from the bed in its physical home, for which I accounted via a firmware swap, including a "virtual" firmware home....


1

Generally, there is no best way, there are only the ways that work for you. I use a feeler gauge, mounted on a detachable holder. I home to 0, lift the Z by 1 mm, and then level the bed to the same number on the screws and corners. Then I home back to Z=0 and perform an extrusion test, and if that is not satisfactory, use a different number for the leveling. ...


1

In addition to the suggestion of cleaning the glass with soap (dish soap works very well) and THEN also with any alcohol or brake cleaner or similar no-trace solvent, you can use hairspray or glue stick for larger parts.


0

First thing I do when I notice that increasing bed temperature does not work any more, is washing the glass with soap or detergent. Some advice to use also isopropyl alcohol. My impression is that the main mistake is to use alcohol to wipe the glass instead of dismounting and thoroughly cleaning the glass from any grease. This is a bit more work, and for me ...


0

This is theoretical assumption, but I suppose that your steps/mm values are now wrong in EEPROM - specifically they are set to 0 (zeroed steps per mm)? Could you please use LCD and navigate to Configuration > Advanced Settings > Steps per mm and check what values are set there? If there are zeros, could you set them to positive values (e.g. =80) and ...


0

I think I fixed everything. What I did is I used this guide <youtu.be/y_1Kg45APko> which was a guide by makes'n'breaks on setting the probe z-offset using pronterface and then reverted to the original firmware that was on this page<github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/…> Which was the marlin firmware for bltouch for z homing ...


0

Just order a Watt Electricity Usage Monitor or a similar model and plug it into the wall, or better, a 3-prong extension cord, then plug your 3D printer into it, and you'll get all the power consumption detail you'll need. Show your Mom, and she'll see what to charge you, if she's so inclined. To impress her, offer to pay without her asking.


0

SOLUTION Unscrewing the mainboard enclosure and tilting it to allow better airflow like in the picture shown below. This is the same issue as many others. https://forums.creality3dofficial.com/community/ender-3-v2/layer-shift-ender-3-v2/ https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/comments/kn8u72/layer_shift_investigation_data_and_video/ I appreciate the assistance.


1

Heating it proved futile in my case (I didn't have a blowtorch either), I was able to get the gear off by using a Dremel, I also flattened a small side for the screw. However, to my extreme frustration, I found out that the actual height of the shaft is not long enough to reach the dual extruder's filament hole and thus had to order another motor.


0

You mentioned a noticeable 'clunk' when it shifts, are you sure it isn't a physical obstruction? You said you checked that all axis run smoothly but are you sure you checked the full extents of the printable area? Watch carefully when the issue happens, are any of the cables getting snagged on the machine or surrounding workspace? Check under the bed in ...


0

Generally timing belt is complicated device and many thing depend on its internal construction and materials (it may be damaged when bound in wrong direction, or when cut, and when overtighten of course, etc.). There is also physics and math behind based on Mersenne's laws. Some vendors provide calculators (online or as phone apps), which can calculate ...


0

From my experience Auto Home procedure rearly leaves Z position at 0. By default Marlin raises it to 4 mm above the bed as far as I remember. The same might be with Z offset. Also, could you please check "Initial Layer Height" in Cura? Could you check the machine's "Start G-Code" for presence of G91 code (this would be bed sign) and ...


1

G-Code is processed as a queue. The FIFO behavior would disallow to execute any commands in parallel. However I am aware of - yet I didn't have opportunity to try - the emergency commands M112 or M108 offered by Marlin. Marlin documentation says that EMERGENCY_PARSER and HOST_KEEPALIVE_FEATURE need to be enabled to handle these. So apparently there is a ...


1

3D Printers are pretty basic when it comes to g-code. There is no cycle start or cycle pause function on them. There is also no g-code command to interrupt the previous command. To get it to a halt you could turn it off. Or if the printer's firmware is configured to do so, you can touch one of the limit switches to get it to stop its movements.


0

This seems like Z homing issue. Sounds pretty frustrating, so I will try to give some hints, though I do not have Ender 3. Also maybe my few questions will be helpful. Did you "adjusted all the wheels on the printer" after the Z position was zeroed? This could be crucial, especially that firmware may raise Z up after homing (e.g. to 4mm). The G-...


1

Well, I guess if I were more experienced I would have checked this earlier. I tried everything almost tore my printer apart and rebuilt. One more testing of a cube and the filament broke. I became suspicious and replaced the filament with another brand and voila, no more printing issues! Looks like it was the filament.


2

I initially tightened the tensioner for the x-axis belt pulley, which seemed to help. Then I double-checked my installation, and realized the belt for the x-axis was on upside down (belt teeth go in, smooth side of belt out). So I guess it’s actually more surprising it’s been working well until now...


5

Total user error on my end. With the new version of this app somehow I did not catch that material selected on the UI dropdown was set to some custom material and not Generic PLA. Once I selected the proper material, all worked as expected.


2

I do a lot with printed threads, and find this problem creeps up mostly when the filament is wet. Higher temperature (like 220) can partly compensate but it's better to dry your filament and store it properly to keep it dry. Assuming standard metric thread profile, though, these are also pretty severe overhangs for a concave extrusion (where motion of the ...


1

I upgraded to the latest firmware, and now everything works again.


1

I had exact same issues with my Ender 3 v2. Using the stock default glass the middle would be too far out and I was never able to level it just right - no matter what I did - I could have stayed on it for hours. In matter of fact, it wasn't just the middle, it was the middle between each of the corner points as well, meaning, imagine a plus sign going across ...


1

The fitting can be defective and no longer hold upon the PTFE tube anymore. In that case, you need to cut off a short piece of the tube and most likely replace the fitting. If the metal coupler unscrews you can fix that by properly screwing it tight. If it does not stay put after applying some torque upon it, then the screw thread is broken, and the whole ...


2

If the fitting is remaining attached to the PTFE tubing, that would indicate that the threaded end of the fitting is pulling out of the drive assembly. This implies that the internal threads of the drive assembly have stripped out. This is not unusual for a plastic drive assembly. The best solution is to replace the drive assembly. I believe I paid about US$...


0

There are 3 effects at work, and you misread your micrometer: the measurement is 19.35 in the picture. You have a little lip There's a little lip at the top and bottom of the print. You'd need to clean that up with a sharp knife or sandpaper. That is the biggest part of the error you measure. Movement errors accumulate Errors also collect on the center of ...


1

There are three settings you will want to check in Cura to help with this. Nozzle Diameter Check your "Nozzle Diameter" if you've moved to a larger nozzle and haven't changed it in the new Cura version then it'll be under-extruding, or the default option may just be incorrect for you, most printers (Like the stock Ender 3 Pro) use a 0.4 mm nozzle. ...


2

This is an older Ender 3 Pro, they at one point came with these press-fit gears, these are not intended to be removed which is a poor design decision. I would recommend buying a new motor than going through the hassle of removing it.


0

This brass extruder gear is either press fitted (see other answer) or hot crimped onto the shaft. Brass has about twice the thermal expansion rate as stainless steel, so you could heat the gear while cooling the shaft (e.g. stepper upside down with the shaft in water, heating the gear with a small torch lighter, a makeshift aluminium foil shield could be ...


0

Many parameters will influence success. That overhang, as flat as it is and unsupported, will need to have support-structures enabled to become printable.


0

If you cant see any grub-screw on the extruder gear, it's likely that it has been permanently press-fit onto the motor shaft. It is possible to remove the gear if you have something like a Dremel to cut it off, however, do note that it would be a permanent modification, and that your warranty (if you had any) would be void. If you do go this route, be ...


0

That depends on various parameters if an overhang will work or not, material, hotend temperature, speed, cooling, size of the overhang, etc.


0

I just recently got my first 3D printer (Ender 3 v2) and am also using the Eryone PLA filament. After the first week, I was having bed adhesion problems as well. I think part of the problem is the bedsprings become loose rather quickly. Here is my current solution, leveling the bed with a receipt paper (thinner than regular 20lb bond paper) and using blue ...


0

You are experiencing layer shifting, please check the tension of the X-axis belt, driver current. A more elaborated answer is found here.


1

Try a Brim (the model is rather tricky on FDM), which can help with bad adhesion. Your first laser appears coarse and not "smooched" as it should. This hints that you leveled either high, or you hit the portal off-angle. If it is just high leveling, a tiny turn "up" can help a lot. The model has some rather flat overhangs, like the mouth, ...


Top 50 recent answers are included