Very likely the clicking is from the TPU slipping in the extruder driver gear.
TPU needs a much slower speed than other plastics, make sure you are using an extrusion speed that is reasonable for TPU.
Assuming you are extruding TPU at the correct speed, there are many reasons that could cause the extruder to get clogged. A few might include:
too small of ...
At first glance, this looks like it could be missing layers. The following is from All3DP.com's article "3D Printing Troubleshooting All Common Problems"
Some Layers are Missing
What’s the 3D Printing Problem?
There are gaps in the model because some layers have been skipped (in part or completely).
What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?
There's a cyclic aspect to the metallic noise that would point to a fan blade rubbing somewhere. It's difficult to determine from the video if your extruder fan is running while the carriage is moving, but that would be one place to examine. Even though the power supply doesn't move with the carriage, consider to check the fan within that unit as well. Any ...
The basic RRF board has a single Z driver which connects to two Z stepper sockets.
In order to individually drive two steppers, you need an optional stepper driver like in a dedicated Z2 stepper driver or a spare E1 driver to function as the second Z driver. The basic RRF board only has four drivers, so this board alone will not bring the functionality of ...
I had this exact issue - PLA wasn't sticking to itself. It was intermittently being dragged around by the nozzle, and prints literally fell apart when removing them.
The problem: bad filament. I bought a new roll and the printer worked fine afterward.
I'm having the same issue with Ender 3 V2. Everything tightened, Z-axis coupler not "slipping"... I noticed, that the error is made by the Z-axis end switch itself. I am not sure how that is possible but try homing several times and you'll see that the loud click when the switch is triggered occurs in a span of +/- 3 mm, which then results in a ...
This happened to me once - no plastic would come out, the extruder was jammed. I was stumped as to what was happening, as I couldn't put any filament through the hotend, but it was definitely still hot. The problem: don't ask me how it happened, but a small screw had somehow found its way into the hotend.
This sounds like a bad thermistor. Try replacing the head thermistor, see if this fixes it.
As for the strange error message, it looks like the word Temperature is being drawn on the wrong line, and then "is too low" writes over it.
See the way the word lines up below:
is too lowperature
I had the same problem. Bought my Ender 3 Pro in July 2021, so not sure if the new or old versions have this problem. I solved the problem slightly differently.
I could not pull out the gear it was too tight, so I put the pliers on top of the gear and then hammered the gear down, not up. Then on top of it I have put the gear that came with the dual drive on ...
The following is from the article "Elephant's Foot - Easy Fixes" on All3DP.com
As we’ve explained, elephant’s foot most often occurs as the result of an uncooled first layer. If the temperature of the print bed is too high, or if there’s insufficient cooling, the first layer may not cool properly, causing elephant’s foot.
Here are a few things ...
Ok, so you are having multiple problems, lets break it down:
At the speed you are pushing, it would not be weird to have the Y belt slipping around. Also inertia comes into play, so please, dont do that.
What you are mentioning about the filament going out a bit, also makes sense. You are exceeding the max volumetric flowrate for the ender 3. I would ...
Sounds like you have incorrectly set up your machine, specifically the Z offset.
Or your Z endstop is physically too low and not set up properly.
I'd suggest recalibrating your machine from the start as that would help dial it in as well as potentially solve this issue.
I recommend following this guide at the Teaching Tech 3D Printer Site - it's extremely ...
My comment refuses to upload so I think it’ll be ok if I just put it here:
Thanks this fixed it I had to replace my hot end as the one had broken for some reason but now it is fully working again, thank you so much!👍
Sorry for all the mistakes in formatting, I am new I joined 3 days ago.
You need to figure out what is not working
Is the hotend getting hot? If not, melted filament won't come out.
Is the nozzle clogged? In your toolkit was a bit of thin wire for poking into the nozzle - try that and see what happens. You may need to heat the hotend, extract the filament, wait for it to cool, remove the bowden tube and push the wire up ...
Advantage: It should print like regular PLA at PLA temperatures.
Disadvantage: the embedded metal particles are abrasive and will widen your standard brass nozzle over time. The fix is to use a hardened steel nozzle, or for the extreme, there are options like ruby-tipped nozzles.
Advantage: It should look "metallic" in a way that is more durable ...
I finally found the problem. The threaded rod of the Z axis was not mounted tight enough to the motor. This resulted in the slipping of the Z axis by large accelerations of the motor.
So... tightening the threaded rod connector socket and redoing the leveling solved the problem.
PLA is just about the only common material that prints well on the stock Ender 3. The extruder lacks proper grip and/or torque at the hob for printing PETG well, and printing TPU with a bowden tube is very slow and error-prone. All of these should work if you're willing to go very slow (20-30 mm/s top) though. ABS and ASA are probably doable, at least with a ...
I'd suggest running through basic maintenance. Check
Is the nozzle clean/unblocked? If not clean it out
Is the nozzle worn? If so, replace it
Is the bowden tube okay in the hot end ? If not, replace, or at least shorten it.
Are your e-steps calibrated correctly?
Also consider whatever mods were made, and whether they help or not. There's a ...
A (pre-2019) stock ender3 can't print tpu because of a 3mm gap between the driver in the extruder and the bowden tube. But there are multiple adapter plates on thingiverse that close this gap, and then tpu works fine (with some tuning).
I got tpu to work for small parts even without the adapter plate.
Consider Wood PLA. It is similar to PLA but more abrasive, and with different happy-temperatures.
Especially useful if you want to paint your output, or if you have woodworking skills/tools then prints can be (somewhat) worked and incorporated into larger projects.
Imagine printing detailed scallions or crenellations or gargoyles for a spooky dollhouse - ...
The way to optimise retraction is to use this retraction optimisation tool, which tests various retraction distances and speeds.
Remember to perform this calibration AFTER you set pressure or linear advance, which has a higher priority.
You will be able to pick the settings which work the best for that filament brand and type. You will have to do it again ...
Something strange happened to me (Ender 3 with CR Touch), changed my firmware and stringing happened. I was slicing with Cura and went through three days of breaking my head. You know how I fixed it? Simple, I looked for a pre-made retraction temp. And guess what? It was the slicer all along. I changed to Simplify3D and all of my stringing disappeared. I can'...
This is an issue I have had when doing maintenance on my printer. If your belt is too tight, it will cause resistance to the motor turning. In addition, you may not have properly set the motor current (tiny trimpot next to each motor driver).
TL;DR: Don't do that.
Detailed answer: You need motion limit parameters that actually make physical sense, and firmware capable of executing a motion plan according to them. Your jerk and acceleration settings absolutely don't. Marlin's whole implementation of jerk is wacky (note: modern Marlin versions don't even use it but an alternative they call "...