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48

PLA parts can be finished with a coat of epoxy like XTC-3D from Smooth-On. This will smooth out the part and give it a pretty nice shine. I've also had a fair amount of success sanding prints, giving them a coat of automotive filler primer, and using glossy spray paint. You can also get great results with an acetone vapor finish if you're willing to switch ...


29

Acetone vaporing is a great way to smooth ABS prints. For PLA, however, acetone smoothing does not work. An article about smoothing PLA says: This is a pity, since PLA is much easier to work with than ABS. We found some solutions for smoothing PLA, but most involve rather dangerous-sounding chemicals such as Tetrahydrofuran and Dichloromethane. The one ...


14

I have a bunch of solutions to this problem but I'm always looking for additional ideas. I usually start by slicing as much as possible off with a hobby knife. The more than can be removed before sanding the better. For big prints I like big generic sandpaper sheets from the hardware store. Starting with the highest grit and moving down. Make sure you're ...


10

It takes quite an effort to make PLA shiny, and it's not as simple as ABS and acetone. You have to sand down the print with sandpaper with different grit sizes (start with grit P100, then P240, P400, P600, P1500 and P2000). To make the shining result you have to polish the print with plastic finish compound. Alternatively you can apply XTC-3D Print Coating....


7

I use normal wet/dry sandpaper and it works just fine. If I remember correctly, I usually start with 220 and then work my way up to 400, 600, and 800. There are also foam or rubber sanding pads available that work really well when you're sanding something organically shaped. The grits you start and finish with will depend on how rough your surface is.


7

I use nail files. They're easy to get, cheap and have different grits on either side. You can lay them flat or hold them in your hand and they have some stability making it fairly easy to sand something that is or should become flat. Plus, you can fix any nails you damage while removing support structures.


7

My guess is it's damaged print surface from the hot extruder mashing against the print surface. Your description seems to indicate that it isn't a layer.


6

Your two easiest options are dipping your print in acetone or giving it an acetone vapor bath. Note this process generally only works with ABS not PLA, with the exception of some brands. There are many articles online where you can learn more about the process. Aside from finishing, you will generally get a smoother looking end result by lowering the layer ...


5

Acetone can be used to smooth ABS. The left has been smoothed by an acetone bath and the right is the original model. (Image credit: Andrew Sink) Take note: acetone is dangerous to breathe in, so work in a well ventilated area. It is also flammable. Warm acetone vapour bath using stove This method involves suspending the model in a glass jar of boiling ...


5

Subdividing an existing mesh further won't do anything because you're not adding additional detail, just representing the same thing with more triangles. Subdividing as "preparation" doesn't make much sense. You should make sure the mesh is created with sufficient detail while modelling. A mesh created for 3d printing should generally have a lot more ...


5

I have experienced this problem. This picture is one that I could have taken. It has always been because I was putting too much plastic into the available space. This has been caused two things: overextrusion -- squirting out too much plastic for the intended layer height, and the bed being too "high" so that the gap between the nozzle and the bed is too ...


4

Another method that you could try is an acetone vapor bath. (All credit to them, by the way) Just so you know, this is a very risky method, but the outcome is very nice. Remember that I warned you... And please, please watch cautionary videos and practice extreme caution. I cannot stress that enough. All you have to do is get a heating pad (or anything ...


4

Make sure your printer is properly calibrated and that there are no jams as this can cause blobs or other defects on the object. Printing at a higher resolution would also make the object smoother, as there would also be less difference between each layer. The filament that you are using could be a cause for the rough look as well. Make sure you play around ...


4

Industry has for years used a 'pad printer' to put images on complex shapes, like plastic or ceramic travel mugs, etc. I have observed these, but never used one. I see no reason why there couldn't be a DIY version made. Best of luck, and I look forward to seeing what you come up with!


4

From the printer... Non-post-processed surface smoothness of a print is mainly a function of the Layer height during print: it is smoother if one reduces the height of the steps taken between the layers. A very good FDM machine can achieve down to 0.05 mm layer height, but 0.1 mm is what most hobbyist machines can achieve if well dialed in. SLA printers cure ...


3

As is typical with many CAD type programs, a feature in Onshape known as revolve may be your solution. As you have a clear formula for the cross-section, half of the work is complete. You would generate a sketch representing the curve, then use the Revolve feature with the axis oriented to vertical. According to the Onshape video, you can generate a solid ...


3

I think this will work for you... Laser Printer Image Transfer: Print reverse image with color laser printer on regular paper. Apply Mod Podge or artist arcylic or artist matte gel to the 3d printed surface. You may need to sand it first to get it nice and smooth. Apply same to picture and put picture, face down, onto the surface that you're transferring ...


3

This Reddit post seems to have some good trial and error dialog. This Thingiverse post, along with many other references online, suggest that the results are very similar to that of an Acetone treatment with ABS. I'm not familiar with the inner workings of how it works, but the general advice is to be conscious of what you're working with. A heat-induced ...


3

Heat up your bed to the print temperature; maybe even as hot as 100 °C. This will soften the ABS and make it easier to scrape off. It will distort a print to remove it this way, but is good for cleaning. Less preferred method: Acetone will dissolve ABS but may be rough on your PEI, even causing it to lose its bond. It also evaporates very quickly and is ...


3

The top image looks as if the (top) layer(s) are under-extruding, the walls don't appear to be suffering from the same problem. The following image from a recent PETG print is typical for an FDM product. The deposited lines need to touch (actually, slightly overlapping, but the slicer will take care of that) each other: You will see texture (especially when ...


2

Beside vaporizing with heat, you can use an atomizer and do cold vapor. The time is around 1-5 minutes at 45ºC for a 10x10x20 mm piece like a Marvin or a bot. I have done only gangster tests with it, so I have no larger piece info. Passive vapor polish does not work with chloroform since it tends to crack. It needs a fast flash on the outside only.


2

It should be noted that the suggested methods in other answers all have the following disadvantages: The vapor just seems to weaken the print to much faster than print smooths. Sanding melts the plastic pretty easily and just rips the print apart. Filing helps but leaves blemishes that require the whole print to be sanded and/or painted.


2

I normally deburr with a deburring tool: Then I file if needed, then I hit it with a scotch brite pad: And then I give it a quick pass with a heat gun to darken all the areas that have turned lighter from the abrasion. Video showing heat gun (but not scotch brite): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Aj9WCabPgw


2

There is no tool to create a parabola in a sketch in Onshape but you could use a 3 or 5 point spline to create a similar curve. If you knew exactly the curve you wanted you could create it with another cylinder but let's skip that for now and use a spline. Once you have the curve, add a line to close it until the geometry is shaded in light gray. I would ...


2

Rather than post a series of links for various services and vendors, consider to use as a search term "hydrographic film at home" to find results to suit your purpose. The first search results I found excluded "at home" and indicated it was not suited for home/hobbyist use, but the modification resulted in vendors supportive of home users. In advanced ...


2

Follow up: I used the 6mil magnet, cut a sheet of thin steel, (about .5mm) to fit, added a layer of Buildtak and now it's much easier to remove prints, build surface is very flat. I assume you could deform the metal beyond the magnet's ability to flatten it but it works quite well. The metal was cut with sheet metal snips, risky as they can bend the sheet. ...


2

Those marks are the Z Layer seams, or the point where your printer stops moving in X/Y to move up one layer width and begin on the next layer. Unfortunately, These marks are unavoidable, but you can tune them to be less severe with your retraction settings. Most slicer software available today should have a configurable option for 'Seam Alignment' that you ...


2

If it actually is residue from the material you were trying to print, pressed against the surface so tightly and so thin that you can't separate it, the best way to remove it is printing a new object on top of it, using the same material, with the bed properly leveled (i.e. not smashing the nozzle into it again) and with the bed and nozzle temperature high. ...


1

The surface defects you describe is caused by Z-wobble. Basically this leads back in a defect in the Z axis gantry where X and/or Y movements are transferred into the print head. This can be cause by: a damaged nut, lead screw not straight, stick-slip, binding, lead screw out of alignment with the coupler, lead screw touching the stepper shaft in the ...


1

Solution: After trying a lot of different filters with different tools, I came up with simplifying the point-cloud. After that, using the poisson surface reconstruction filter worked just fine without creating any weird bubbles.


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